HUNGARIAN BROAD PEAK EXPEDITION LEADER DAVID KLEIN
Hungarians go for Broad Peak clean up
JUNE6-2000
By
Asem Mustafa Awan
ISLAMABAD
— Hungarian Broad Peak Clean Up expedition will be leaving for Skardu in
couple of days.
Twenty
five year old David Klein is leading the 12 member side which comprises of
seven climbers who will try to hoist Hungry's flag on an 8000ers for the
first time.
The
expedition is from the Explorers Programme of Hungry and a number of
projects are associated with the expedition which will try to scale the
8047 metres.
The
expedition will primarily purge the mountain from the old ropes and tents
from Camp 3 and above besides looking for a variation if possible on the
peak from the unclimbed South East Ridge.
Two
Hungarian climbers Mazor Laszlo Mezey (30) and Zoltan Acs (30) will try to
make the first snow board descent from Broad Peak. The two women climbers
Anita Ugyan (30) and Julia Nedeczky (26) if successful would be the first
Hungarian women on an 8000er summit.
"It
is a big thing for all us," said the bearded David Klein who is
visiting Pakistan for the fourth time.
Three
of the expedition members have visited Pakistan before including David.
The three were climbing Trichmir 7788 metres, Mazor and Zoltan were the
two climbers who made the
first Hungarian ascent on the peak in 1998, David despite the stomach bug
managed 7000 metres on the peak and shared the loads with other members.
"I
am very positive and hopeful that team is capable of reaching the
summit," said David.
"The
expedition from the Explorers Group will conduct a number of researches
and few of the climbers will be picked for scientific tests pertaining to
high altitudes."
A
four member research group led by Anna Haraszti will be coming in two
weeks time and they will conduct their research in the Northern Areas
specially on the tribes and
culture of the Kalash Valley."
David
is also planning to take a look at the incinerator left by the
French Clean Up expedition at the Broad Peak in 1999.
"I
want to take a look at the apparatus how it can be put to use."
Answering
a query he said," There is too much of paper work involved in the
getting to the mountains and ministry must do some thing about it. The
climbers complained of it every year and secondly it is always the tour
operators who make the money not the ministry. Ministry can generate its
funds by putting a percentage on it having all the offices operate under
one roof."
Human
Resource Consultant David said, "If the ministry doesn't change its
way for the 2001 Visit Pakistan Project I am afraid they will lose a
considerable market to Nepal, India, Tibet and China who offer more
tourist friendly procedures."
"Our
expedition is also without any tour operator as it was not a good
experience in the past in 1998," he said adding," The insurance
in total amounted up to 45 dollars when we checked but the tour operator
was charging 500 dollars for that and this year we decided not to avail
any tour operator services as they are all rip offs and they make big
money.
The
ministry knows all about it but still they act so strange."
David's
sister Dr Izabella Klein is also accompanying the expedition, she said,
"I came here to take care of him (David)."
Dr
Izabella also presented a toothbrush to David and when asked why she
said," So that he (David) doesn't use mine."
Other
climbing members are Laszlo Mecs (28) and Laszlo Dora (34). Gabor Vida
(27) is accompanying the team as team doctor, Aron Kovacs (25) is the Base
Camp Manager. Two member camera team with Ms Dora Berces (24) and Laszlo
Zsolt (29) will accompany the expedition and take account of the clean up
done by the Hungarian expedition.
The
expedition will make standard camp sites on the normal route with Base
Camp at
5000
metres, Camp 1 at 6000 metres, Camp 2 at 6900 metres, Camp 3 at 7700
metres weather and conditions permitting. The team is also taking ropes to
be fixed in difficult portions of the climb.
David
a multilingual climber at present is taking lessons in Urdu besides
learning to write the script.
"It
is difficult but I am picking up fast," said David with a grin.
The
expedition progress can be checked at (www.explorers.hu)
CAPTION:
David Klein