Chad Berger floating up "Air".
Nate climbing "Whiskey-A-Go-Go" Photo by C.B.
Chad working on "Wide Crack". The left fork of Y-Crack.
A few miles East of Necedah this ridge, containing some of the best routes in the state, rises out the bank of the Wisconsin River.  The climbing for the most part is on excellent sandstone.  There are sport routes here as well as mixed and all gear routes.  If you can't tell before you start leading a route you best take some gear. There are some routes that could be considered R or possibly even X rated (some contain bolts). Use your head before climbing. Just because it has bolts does not make it a sport climb. I can think of three routes off the top of my head that have all fixed pro except for one piece.  Most routes require only one rope or a fairly easy downclimb to get off.  There is at least one set of rap anchors where one 50 meter rope WILL NOT reach the ground.  This is at the  top of  "Air".   Once again your safety is your resonsibility. There is no camping here, although some people would like to think so.  If you are one of those keep a low profile. Enough morons come here to party and are begining to trash the place. Climbers don't need to help. Sleep in your car or down in the woods.  Once there were climbers who set up there camp in the MIDDLE of the trail going to Y-Crack!  I,or  anyone I know , do not want any access problems here.  If you see somebody being a dumb ass and wrecking the place, tell them to go somewhere else.
These are the "classics".
Air  5.6  Bolts and some hand size cams

Wide Crack  5.10+ gear finger to 4"-5" cam

Whiskey  13a  Bolts

These are only my thoughts on gear. What you will need is up to you.  These routes can take more and can be climbed with less. Your good judgement, is your best  protection.
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