Nan Douwas: temple fortress of the Saudaleur ruler of old Pohnpei, is unique in the Pacific. The walls have survived a thousand years. Sea walls and a multitude of artificial islands make up the ancient city of Nan Madol, the residents priests and royal families supported by tribute.

Nan Douwas, position of the main steps and entranceway for the Saudaleur ruler. All other men entering the precinct were required to crawl awkwardly through the only other entrances, low openings in the 12-foot thick walls. The inner square contains a crypt for burial of the past rulers and space for the Saudaleur's privacy and sacred ceremonies.

On all sides we caught sight of fascinating structures, mostly islet foundations and seawalls that wherever they were built high had a pleasing tilt at the corners. The structures that once stood atop them were all of wood and thatch. We exited the enclosed spaces to motor along the outer massive seawall, at least 60 feet wide, which continued on three-quarters of a mile from Nan Douwas! Buttressing the south corner was a wall colossal stones.

The orderly arrangement of islands, the passing canoes bringing food, the cooling breezes, and the sparkling water must have made the life of the elite quite wonderful.

The sky grew overcast. Rain began to fall. We moved Sea Quest deeper into the bay for shelter as the barometer dropped. The low we were concerned about moved off to the west while another developed right over our heads! The situation did not look good. We seemed to be pinned down in continuous torrential rain in  Pohnpei. But we had to keep moving! Therfore on  the 22^nd of April, despite some nervousness, we hauled up our muddy anchor and set off to sea.

Oroluk
We had hoped to revisit Oroluk Atoll and did shelter for awhile on the edge of the reef after two days at sea. However, cloud was building and a late afternoon weather fax indicated our worst  fears coming about. A low to the west had developed rotation. Neither Oroluk or any other island for a thousand miles offered refuge!  We had to keep going and we had to stay out of the way of any incumbent typhoon. The only way we imagined we might do that was to stay well south knowing that  lows as they develop in intensity, usually move northward. We set a course towards Lukinioch, part of the Mortlock group, some 100 miles to the southwest. 

Somewhere in that great expanse of fathomless ocean the generator water pump's seal went, spewing salt water over the entire engine room. The shaft was badly scored. Little could be done but grease it up and put it together again.

In the early hours of 30^th April we sighted on radar, Pulusuk Atoll, about 9 miles on starboard beam. The only anchorage is behind a little spur of reef. We continued on.

Lamotrek, 1 May 2003
When tiny Lamotrek Atoll hove into view, the VHF crackled with a voice welcoming us to visit. As we approached the village two pet  "Stern" birds flew out to meet us. The lagoon was

Michael stands of SW facing  corner of the seawall. How did primitive people move rocks like these on to a shallow reef?
Below: Tere walks along some basalt columns, the principle building material. Behind her is the artificial island used to keep ceremonial giant clams.

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