French knots provide interesting details on a design such as berries,
eyes and flower centres or to finish off lettering.
They are represented by a dot on the chart.
They are easy to work once you know how.
Follow these steps and you will soon be producing perfect French knots every time.
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1. Bring the needle out where you want your French knot to be. Place your work flat on a table or your lap.
Holding the thread in your left hand, wrap it twice around the needle in a clockwise direction.
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2. Keeping the thread taut in your left hand, push the needle back into the fabric close to where it emerged,
but not into the same hole. On aida you will have to make your own hole but on evenweave you can use the next hole.
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3. Still holding the thread in your left hand, smoothly and firmly pull the needle through the fabric.
Be especially careful when you pull the final 5cm of thread through to ensure that a neat, plump knot forms in the
right place on the fabric.
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Straight stitches are used frequently alongside cross stitch to add detail and outline to designs,
so whilst it's necessary to get your cross stitches looking neat, it's equally important that any extra stitches added
for detail don't let you down.
The two straight stitches used in conjunction with cross stitch are backstitch and long stitch.
Long stitches are generally used for adding details such as whiskers to animals and stamens and stalks to flowers.
Backstitch, in contrast, may not be that obvious when you look at the finished design,
especially if the backstitch thread shade matches that of the cross stitch.
As well as backstitch and longstitch, you may also come across another type of straight stitch called
Holbein stitch which was originally used in blackwork and Assisi embroidery. Have a look at the descriptions and
diagrams below to see how to work each of these useful stitches.
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Backstitch
Backstitch is a short, straight stitch. The length of a backstitch is
generally equal to the size of a cross stitch, whether worked straight or on the diagonal.
Occasionally it is worked over two stitches on the diagonal to create a shallower angle.
Four uses of backstitch:
* to outline part of a design in a contrasting or matching thread
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to add intricate details over the top of cross stitch
*to work thin lines for borders
*to work straight stitch for lettering.
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Long stitch
Long stitch, as the name implies, is a long stitch.
More commonly it is found in freehand embroidery but it is used in cross stitch to add lines over the top of the
cross stitch to complete the design once the other stitching is finished. Because the thread lies across
the top of the cross stitch it is better to work long stitch while your stitching is still stretched in
an embroidery hoop or frame.
Use a single strand to work long stitch.
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Holbein stitch
Holbein stitch is also known as double running stitch.
A row of running stitch is worked and then a second row is stitched to fill in the gaps.
This stitch is traditionally used in Assisi embroidery to outline the motifs before the background of
cross stitches is filled in. It is ideal for working long straight lines, such as borders,
in cross stitch embroidery.
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When it comes to cross stitching, the old adage that it's the little things that can made all the difference
is especially true. Learning about the best ways to start your thread is a technique that can
definitely help you as you move from easy projects to more challenging ones.
Once you've cut your thread, separated the strands and threaded the needle you are ready to go on
and stitch that fabulous design. But, how do you make that first stitch?
There are several ways of going about it, but some are better than others.
Have a look at the different methods of starting off your stitching so that you can decide
which one works best for you.
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Anchoring the thread
This is the most common method of starting off your stitching. When making your first stitch,
push the needle up through the fabric and leave about a 5cm(2in) length at the back of your work. As you work
the first few stitches, this length of thread can be covered so that the stranded cotton is secured firmly in place.
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Waste knot method
This is a popular technique with those who have tried the first method and find that the
thread keeps pulling out before they can make the first stitch. Knot the end and push the needle down from the front of
the fabric, slightly away from an area where you want to start stitching, as shown in the diagram. You then start stitching,
again, covering the thread with the first few stitches. When the thread is securely covered the knot can be
snipped from the end.
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The loop method
If you are stitching with an even number of threads then this is a great method for achieving
really neat results. To use the loop method, cut twice your normal length of thread, separate out one strand
(if the design would normally require two) and fold the thread in half. Place the cut ends together and thread
through the needle, leaving a loop hanging at the other end. Bring the needle up through the fabric to make the
first half of the cross stitch, and then push the needle back down through catching it through the loop as you do so.
Pull the thread being careful to make sure it's not too tight, and you will find that you stitch is secure.
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If you've tried French knots and still find them a little tricky, then have a go at the Colonial knot instead.
Many stitchers who struggle with French Knots find this an easy and attractive alternative.
Follow the diagrams below to guide you through the stages of this easy to stitch knot.
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Step 1
Using a small crewel needle, bring the thread up through the fabric as the point when you want the knot
to be on your design.
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Step 2
Wind the thread round the needle in an approximate 'figure of eight' movement.
It may be worth practising this beforehand on a spare piece of fabric.
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Step 3
Finally, push the needle back down through the fabric, close to where the thread first emerged.
Keep the thread taut as you do so and draw the thread through carefully to the reverse side of the fabric,
leaving the knot neatly in place.
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Try using the Colonial knot where you would normally use a French knot. The effect is very similar except that
the Colonial knot is generally slightly higher and larger than a French knot. As well as being worked alone,
Colonial knots can also be used to fill in a shape. This easy to work stitch is also known as the Candlewicking knot,
as it is often used, stitched close together, to form the lines within a candlewicking design.
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The Victorians were crazy about using perforated or punched paper for their stitching.
They used it to make cards, bookmarks and needlecases and to decorate the empty spaces in their scrapbooks.
Many ladies were skilled at stitching motifs onto the paper and cutting it into shapes which they pasted together
to create an intricate, almost lace-like pattern.
You can still buy perforated paper from your local needlecraft store.
It is fun to work with and can be used to make some exciting and original items.
It is sold in A4 sheets of 14 count and can be used just as you would use aida fabric.
As the holes in the paper are slightly larger than in the fabric,
it is recommended that you used three strands of thread to get a good coverage of the paper.
These larger holes help when stitching, as the needle passes through them easily and there is less risk of
the paper being torn.
Unlike Victorian paper which was only produced in neutral shades,
modern stitching paper comes in 10 lovely antique colours, including red, blue, gold and silver.
Perforated paper is not difficult to work with and is ideal for small projects that don't need
a lot of time or materials - why not give it a try?
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Step by step guide
Stitching with perforated paper is easy once you know how.
Here we cover all the ins and outs for you, from choosing your design to cutting it out after stitching.
1. Which design should I choose?
Perforated paper only comes in 14-count and can be used
to stitch many of your favourtie charts with stranded cotton and a 24 or 26 tapestry needle.
The holes are bigger, so cross stitch your design in three strands instead of two; use one or two strands for
backstitch depending on your preference. Choose designs that only use whole stitches - you can't pierce the paper
to make a central hole for fractional stitches.
2. What equipment do I need?
Apart from the paper
and thread, the only special item you may need to invest in is a pair of craft scissors, for cutting out the design
once you've stitched it. Avoid using your embroidery scissors for this - the paper will blunt them. You may find a thread
clipper useful for cutting out the most fiddly areas of a design. You'll need a pencil and soft rubber to mark the centre
and the cutting lines - use a scrap piece of paper first to check that you can easily rub out the pencil marks.
3. Where do I start?
Cut a piece of paper 5cm (2in) larger all round than your design -
enough to hold the paper whilst you stitch and as a margin for error. Mark the centre point softly with two
pencil lines which you can rub out later. Remember that the right side of perforated paper is the smooth side.
Count the number of squares across and down from the centre to the point where you want to start stitching.
A square consists of the four holes you use to make a cross stitch and you'll find that you're less likely to make
a mistake if you count squares rather than the number of holes.
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4. How do I cut out the design?
If you are following a chart designed specially for perforated paper,
it should include a cutting line for you to follow. If you are using any other chart, you may want to draw in your
own cutting line. You can cut vertically, horizontally or diagonally between the holes. Cut carefully, taking your time,
and, if necessary, go back to complete a tricky part at the end. When your cutting line runs close to the edge of the
stitching, make sure you have at least one square between the design and the edge or your stitches will come out - it may
help to mark the cutting lines in pencil before you start.
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Handle with care
Perforated paper needs to be handled carefully because it is more fragile than fabric,
but you will soon get the hang of it. Take your time when you first use it and try to pull the thread through the holes
as smoothly as possible to avoid catching the paper and tearing it.
If you DO tear the paper, don't worry too much.
A small tear can be repaired by sticking a small piece of transparent tape to the wrong side of the paper. Carry on
stitching as if the tape wasn't there, piercing it when you need to so that you can stitch the holes it is covering,
and the tear shouldn't be visible once the design is complete.
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Plastic canvas is a fantastic way of displaying your cross stitch as a three dimensional project.
It's ideal for making shaped characters like this tiny bookmark clip, fridge magnets, items for your
dressing table and boxes and pencil pots which are great gifts for children.
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What is plastic canvas for?
It's simple, plastic canvas allows you to bring a
three dimensional touch to your cross stitch. As the name suggests, plastic canvas is made from sheets of plastic
punched with a mesh of holes. These holes are used for stitching the design, in the same way that you would use the holes
on a piece of aida.
What's available?
Plastic canvas is available in 7-,10- and 14-count and can be
stitched in the same way as aida or evenweave. It works brilliantly when you are stitching a design that requires a stiff
fabric, for example, the different pieces for a hanging mobile or the standing characters in a Nativity scene. You can even
join pieces of stitched plastic canvas together to make a trinket box or tissue box cover as a special gift.
Made to measure
Another great thing about plastic canvas is that it can be trimmed to a particular
shape with no worry that it is going to fray!
Other great ideas
Plastic canvas is equally handy to
support a design you have already stitched on aida or evenweave. This method is useful for making a trinket box,
especially if it's a round one. You can buy ready-cut plastic canvas circles that are ideal for the lid. Plastic canvas
is a practical and versatile material and is ideal for stitchers who enjoy being creative.
Step By Step Guide
1. Prepare your canvas
Check the size of your finished design and cut your canvas about 5cm (2in)
larger all the way round. Cover the cut edges with masking tape to prevent the threads from snagging whilst
you stitch.
2. Cover the canvas
Stitch the design in the centre of your cut piece of plastic canvas.
Make sure you use enough strands to completely cover the canvas. On 14-count canvas, three strands give a much better
coverage than the two normally used on 14-count aida.
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3. Cut out the shape
Cut your design to shape when you have finished all the stitching.
Use general purpose craft scissors to do this. Carefully cut round your design leaving a border of one unstitched
bar all around. This will keep your stitches in place. Try to cut in a straight line between the two holes,
and trim off any jagged points afterwards.
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4. Finishing off
You can either leave your design as it is, finish it off by oversewing round the edge,
or attach it to black card using double sided tape. It's really up to you!
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Beads are great for adding extra dimension and interest to designs.
Follow our simple instructions so that you can incorporate them into your designs with confidence.
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Individually
Use this technique when stitching single beads onto cross stitch designs or onto the background
fabric. Bring the thread up through the fabric, ready to work the first half of the cross stitch and thread on the bead.
Complete the stitch as normal. Use the second half of the cross stitch to secure the bead in place by allowing the two
strands of thread to separate and fall one each side of the bead - this holds the bead snugly in position.
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Continuous thread
This is used when stitching a line of beads parallel to a line of backstitch or in a border.
Thread the beading needle with a double length of sewing cotton. Bring the beading needle up at the beginning of the
proposed line of beads and feed several beads onto the needle. Thread another needle with thread and bring it up in the
next hole along. Loop this thread over the beading thread and back through the same hole, catching a bead down as you go.
Continue along the line, couching the beads down one at a time.
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What to look for on the chart
A longstitch is similar to a backstitch, except that it covers a lot more squares,
while a backstitch is worked across only one square of the fabric. You can spot longstitch outlines on the chart, because
they cut through the middle of squares instead of from corner to corner.
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In this chart of Bugs Bunny, longstitch has been used to add the whiskers to his face.
LOONEY TUNES, characters names and all related indicia are trademarks of Warner Bros.
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Making the stitch
Work the longstitch last,
after all the cross stitch and backstitches are complete.
Bring the needle out at one end of the line shown on the chart. Take it across the front of your fabric and push it
down again at the other end of the line to make a giant straight stitch. You'll need to count carefully exactly how many
squares the stitch covers on the chart and transfer this information to your fabric. Bring the needle up again in the correct
place to make the next longstitch.
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Keep the tension even
It is important to get the tension right when you are working longstitches,
to prevent them from sagging. Put your fabric in a hoop while you are stitching to keep it taut.
When you are working a series of long stitches, weave your needle through the back of your completed cross
stitches as you move to the starting point for the next stitch to secure each long stitch.
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Three-quarter stitch
Half stitch
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
2. Working the cross stitch
3. Tidying up
4. Removing the canvas