Area N: Yucatán Peninsula - South

State of Quintana Roo

Like most sites in this area, Kohunlich is difficult to find without a car, but with one, can be reached from Chetumal. Sixty kilometres out from that city along the Escárcega highway, the ten-kilometre road to the ruins presents itself on the left. The turning is well marked.

History

Culture: Southeast Maya

There is less known about Kohunlich than most other sites - even its original name is lost (Kohunlich was corrupted from the twentieth century explorers' coinage of Cohune Ridge). Part of the problem is a lack of serious investigation. What little archaeological work that has been done, has revealed only a general time frame of occupation.

The city apparently rose to prominence in the Early Classic when there were important ties to the cultures of northern Belize; this has been deduced from the style of the god masks. There was a brief interlude before development picks up again in the Late Classic when we see significant architectural similarities with the Río Bec region. We may assume that there were also important trade and cultural links between the two, because the final demise of Kohunlich occurred more or less in synchronisation with the larger empire.

The city was first explored in 1912 by an American called Raymond Merwin, but was quickly forgotten about again for another fifty years. The activities of looters finally drew the attention of the authorities who undertook the restorational work from the 1960s to the 1980s.

For more about other Southeast Maya cities, see Cultural History.

Tour  (Scroll down to follow complete tour, or click on feature below and use your BACK key to return to the map)

The ruins are a short walk from the site car park.

We come into the main area of Kohunlich. To our left is an open court closed on three sides. On two of the sides are several low structures with rooms that are collectively called the Northwest Residential Complex: once home to elite members of Kohunlich society. This was apparently constructed late in the day in the city's chronology.

Around the corner we find the largest structure at Kohunlich: the Acropolis. A wide flight of imposing steps leads up to the top of a massive platform. A narrow entrance opens out into a patio atop the building. Some tall rooms on one side of this patio bear hallmarks from the Río Bec region. In addition, on the south and east sides of the platform are stairs leading nowhere, another Río Bec trait.

We will retrace our steps back to the main open area of the city, known as the Plaza of the Stelae, characterised by semi-ruined buildings. On the right is a large structure called the Temple of the King with a rounded, pyramidal base.

Next to this is a long, stepped platform known as the Stands, maybe after its similarity to rows of seats. It bears a resemblance to certain Proto-Puuc structures found at Edzná and Dzibilchaltún.

On the east side of the plaza is a roofed temple named the Temple of the Stelae. On its steps stand three stelae that were originally found near the Temple of the King.

To the south of the Plaza of the Stelae, amidst the tall, cohune palm trees, lies the Merwin Plaza (after the city's discoverer). Here we find very low, ruined buildings. To our right is the Temple of the Twin Columns, so-called because of a double line of short columns lining its entrance.

To the far end is the Building of the Eleven Doors; a curious name. You would be hard pushed to find anything resembling a door now.

On the east side of this small complex is Kohunlich's Ball Court. It is fairly well-preserved and is exceptional because of its length - 42 metres.

Leaving for the time being the inevitable visit to the celebrated Pyramid of the Masks, we will now head south along a path leading deep into the forest. Several signs will direct us towards the Complex of the Twenty-Seven Steps. This is the most elaborate residential complex yet found. It stands atop a large platform accessed by a series of, surprisingly enough, twenty-seven steps (take care - slippery moss grows on most of the steps). Here, we find a series of small patios, corridors, stairs and rooms. This feature has only recently been opened for visiting, and there is not much information regarding it.

Now we will proceed to the highlight of this tour. From the complex just visited, signs will guide us around the forest towards the Pyramid of the Masks. The building itself is protected by a thatched canopy, so its shape cannot be readily appreciated. However, only a quick glance beneath the cover will show why such elaborate care has been taken over this structure.

On either side of the pyramid's main stairs are a series of five stone, coloured masks (one of the original six was stolen). The faces are all representations of the sun god Kinich Ahau, although slight differences between them have suggested that each is also a portrait of a deified ruler. The masks have conspicuously large lips and noses and are adorned with ornaments and headdresses. The original coloured stucco is still in evidence. Altogether, these masks are unique to Mexico, apart from two less impressive examples at Edzná, suggesting there was once some connection between these cities.

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