Area N: Yucatán Peninsula - South

State of Campeche

Becán lies just off Highway 186, a few kilometres west of Xpuhil. Like the other Rio Bec ruins in this area, facilities are few and sizeable towns remote. By public transport, the best way to get here is from either Escárcega or Chetumal that lie at the two ends of the 250-kilometre road. Frequent buses leave from Chetumal and the other sites of Xpuhil and Chicaná lie within reach of Becán, but a car is really the preferred method of transportation. Insect precautions should be taken in the wet season.

History

Culture: Río Bec Maya

Historians often read the history of the Río Bec region as one, for at its zenith, the divisions between the individual large cities may have been hard to define. But this said, it is undoubtedly true that Becán formed one of the most important urban centres of this civilisation and may have acted at one time as an administrative hub. Unfortunately, unlike most other Mayan cultures, these people left no stelae nor written records of leaders and dates, so only plain archaeology can tell us what happened.

The area was first cultivated around 600BC and the first ceremonial constructions were begun in 50BC. The population continued to grow and the cities established trading links with the powerful Petén Maya of Guatemala. At the beginning of the Early Classic, a moat and defending wall was built around Becán, telling evidence of an impending era of turmoil. This phase, that affected the whole region and is now put down to Teotihuacano influence, meant that there was no more expansion of the Río Bec until 600AD.

But this new period saw the peak of Río Bec civilisation. In addition to a dramatic rise in population, a completely unique architectural style was adopted and we see it at Becán in the form of monster mask doorways and false towers, imitating the Petén pyramids. This zenith faded after two hundred years and it is widely accepted that the residents still remaining in Becán after 1050 were probably farmers or migrants. The centre of Mayan power had now moved north to the Chenes region.

For more about other Rio Bec Maya cities, see Cultural History.

Tour  (Scroll down to follow complete tour, or click on feature below and use your BACK key to return to the map)

From the road, the tops of the buildings of the East Plaza provide a tantalising glimpse of this ancient city.

The path from the site entrance crosses a moat, now long dried up, and takes us through a gap in the defensive wall that surrounds the heart of Becán. We find ourselves in a treed plaza, which we will call the Lower Plaza. To our left, we see the back of the important Structure IV and also the adjoining Annex that now consists of ruined and decorated walls.

Structure IV Annex   

Some steps around to the left take us up into the East Plaza, one of the most important ceremonial areas at this city. First, on the left we see a long, stepped platform known as Structure III. This contains several rooms with ruined walls.

    Structure III

Next to this, on the north of the plaza, we see the front aspect of Structure IV, one of the most famous buildings here. It is a steeply inclined pyramidal building (one needs to hold on to a chain while climbing) topped by a temple platform leading into several patios divided by partly preserved walls. To the back, are two flights of stairs that descend inside into a rear room that looks out over the Lower Plaza.

Structure IV   

Bordering the west side of the plaza is Structure II, a massive built-up edifice but now largely ruined. Two intact staircases allow an exploration of its rooms and decorated facades.

    Structure II   

On the south side of the East Plaza we find Structure I, an immense construction of typical Río Bec design. It consists of two solid stone towers annexed by a platform. The towers are unclimbably steep, although once decorated with "false" stairs.

    Structure I

Returning to the treed plaza, we now follow a narrow passage leading through a partial tunnel, known as the Street. This takes us into the wooded Central Plaza, the largest open area at Becán, where we find the largest structures on view.

Street   

Walking around to the right, we come across Structure VIII,  a monumental building. A wide and crumbling stairway leads up to a temple area with broken columns, an old stela and flanked by two more pseudo-towers. Behind, we find more rooms and walled areas. Apparently, the centre of this building contains several lofty interior chambers that are thought to have been used for religious vigils.

    Structure VIII   

Just adjacent to Structure VIII we see the enormous shape of Structure IX, dazzlingly white and the tallest building at Becán, standing approximately 30 metres high. Currently unclimbable, it is pyramidal and simpler in form than most other buildings here. A single stairway leads up five tiers to a temple on top.

    Structure IX   

We see the final restored building of size towards the west side of the Central Plaza. This is Structure X: a lower, stepped platform containing several rooms. Over the central door is the best-preserved monster mask at Becán, and above, the remains of a roof comb. There is a small patio-like area annexed on to the north face.

    Structure X   

Joined to Structure X on its west side we see Becán's Ball Court, measuring 9 by 30 metres in area.

    Ball Court

A plate of glass protects a recently restored find on the south annex of Structure X. Inside is a mask with painted eyes and preserved red colours, similar to, but less impressive than, the giant masks at Balamkú.

Structure X Mask   

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