Area G: Morelos

It is to be found 28km south-west of Cuernavaca just off highway 95; the route is well marked. There is no direct bus there but it is not too troublesome a journey. Take the bus to El Rodeo and ask the driver when to drop you off. The ruins are a taxi-ride away.

History

Culture: Classic, Central Mexico

Xochicalco's zenith of empire lasted during the interval following the fall of Teotihuacan and the rise of the Toltecs; namely in the Late Classic period. The city was founded by an ethnic group known as the Olmec-Xicallancas whose migration into the region was one of the many demographic changes in the area following on from the political vacuum created by Teotihuacan's decline. Xochicalco swiftly took over many of the former power's main trade routes and at its height, its links could be traced to every corner of pre-hispanic Mexico. But the fortified nature of the city suggests that its rule was never as easy or as complete as Teotihuacan's had been; it being only one of several forces then vying for power in the region.

Around 900 the battle was seemingly lost. Xochicalco was sacked and burnt overnight. The population of around fifteen thousand left, and unlike several other abandoned sites, was never occupied again, although the memory of the city lived on.

For more about other Classic Cities of Central Mexico, see Cultural History.

Tour  (Scroll down to follow complete tour, or click on feature below and use your BACK key to return to map)

The entrance drive-way (tickets must be first bought from the museum about five hundred metres away) leads around to a look-out point at the southern-most end of the ruins. We will begin the tour here.

A flight of steps leads up to the Grand Plaza, which in terms of design is the most impressive area at Xochicalco. We are entering the city the same way that the common people would have done and so this plaza served as the most important public ceremonial area.

It is flanked on the east and west sides by two similarly proportioned staired platforms (respectively Structures C and D) with columns and walls that once supported rooves.

On the north side is the Great Pyramid; the largest and tallest building at Xochicalco; with two clear levels and partially restored stair-ways. Although seemingly well preserved, it is not permitted to climb the pyramid.

    The Great Pyramid

In the centre of the plaza is an altar housing a stela with two glyphs. This has been interpreted as a date: day "Reptile Eye", year "10 Cane". The importance of this date, though important it obviously was, is not known.

Altar and Stela   

From the top of Structure D one may obtain a good view of some more features to the south-west which are not currently available for easy exploration. The first one to catch the eye is the South Ballcourt; the largest and broadest at Xochicalco, and according to some commentators was the mould upon which both the Toltecs and Aztecs later based theirs. Behind that is an ancient causeway leading to the Palace; a dense residential complex of rooms and patios and shelves which have been thought to be used as beds. At the end of the causeway, at the top of the low hill (Cerro de la Malinche) can be seen an unexcavated temple.

    South Ballcourt and Palace

From the north-west corner of the Grand Plaza is a series of stair-ways and two platforms connecting to the upper, exclusive section of Xochicalco. On one of the platforms is the remains of a room with column stumps.

Connecting Platforms   

At the top of the stairs we come into the Main Plaza; the largest open space of the city and also the area wherein the most important religious and functionary buildings were to be found. This was evidently an elite quarter for the ruling classes.

At the southern end will be found the Temple of the Stelae, so-called because of several stelae which were discovered with glyphs indicating dates, events and leaders. (These finds are now at the Anthropological Museum in Mexico City). The building itself is grandly constructed and consists of two levels; both with stairways, columns and enclosed rooms.

    The Temple of the Stelae

Next along and taking a more or less central position of the Main Plaza is what in ways is the highlight of the visit to Xochicalco: the Temple of the Feathered Serpent. It is not particularly large, but noted instead for the ornate and beautiful panel of glyphs that entirely encircles it. It is largely a reconstruction put in place in 1909, but is nonetheless worthy of examination. The bottom and most intact section shows eight coiling serpents, two on each face of the building, with the glyph for speech coming out of their mouthes. The serpents are indentified as Quetzalcoatl. There are also seated personages and a variety of decoration. The upper panel is largely missing but some parts are thought to show a record of conquests and occupied towns.

The Temple of the Feathered Serpent: Exterior

At the top of the stair-way can be seen the interior of the pyramid, which is hollow and contains the remains of columns and walls originally housing a temple. To the left at the top of the stairs will be seen a glyph reading as the date "9 Reptile Eye". This has been read as 743A.D. and indicates the year of a solar eclipse during which priests from allied towns came to agree on a standard new calendar. The purpose for the construction of this building may have been to commemorate this event.

    Interior

To the north of the Temple of the Feathered Serpent stands the so-called Twin Pyramid, a structure of nearly identical proportions to the former but more or less destroyed and currently unclimbable. It is thought to have been built later than its neighbour.

Behind these two structures and bordering the east side of the Main Plaza can be seen Structures 6 and 7 which more or less form one interconnecting complex of patios and walls which had residential functions. To the north is Structure 4, an open ruined patio of a similar style.

Structures 6 and 7   

On the opposite side of the Main Plaza facing all of the said buildings is a clearly much larger complex of interconnected rooms, corridors and patios, which is known as the Acropolis.  The main access was by the stairway from the centre of the plaza, still in evidence, but now sadly out of bounds. A walk-way around the Acropolis, however, that starts at its north-east corner, still allows us to view this most architectually complex and interesting network of rooms of the city, which as well as being located at the highest point of Xochicalco probably also housed the residential quarters of its most important officials. To the right of the walk-way on the west side is a lower room which contains a steam-bath and food storage chambers.

Returning to the Main Plaza, we cross back to its north side and descend to a lower level and which is sometimes called the Central Complex. Here we find a restored covered temple with interesting stuccoed designs that have retained some of their former colours.

    Stuccoed Temple

There are some other small structures including a depression which was a steam-bath that has been reckoned to be one of the finest on view anywhere in Mesoamerica.

Steam Bath   

We descend again to another level which both forms Xochicalco's northern extremity and contains the North Ballcourt: the site's most impressive whose sides are also steeper than any to be found elsewhere. In the centre will be seen the two stone rings, displaced but at least preserved.

    North Ballcourt

Walking through the ballcourt, we descend to a level that takes us around beside the outer, fortified walls of the elite residence above.

We eventually come to an open space from which several cave entrances in the hillside and outer walls are to be seen.

Entrance to Observatory Cave   

One of these entrances is gained by means of a stair-way and gives access to the most intriguing part of the tour. The cave is gated but is opened by a tour guide between the hours of 11am and 4pm who will take you, illuminated only by a gas lantern, into a network of passages and rooms forming a large underground catacomb beneath the ceremonial heart of Xochicalco. Apparently the general use of this and the other caves was for storage.

At the centre of the catacombs, the guide will show you a shaft of light from a hexagonal shaft in the ceiling that creates an eerie glow. He will demonstrate a peculiar effect by putting his hand into the cone of light and showing how the shadow has light inside it as well as outside. This feature has been universally understood as a device for observing the path of the sun and perhaps also the stars. On the two occasions of the year when the sun crosses the Tropic of Cancer, a strong blaze of light illuminates the chamber. These events are on the 14 or 15 May and 28 or 29 July if you're fortunate enough to be here then.

    Observatory Optical Shaft

Retracing our steps all the way back to the North Ballcourt, we will this time continue walking straight on at the same level and begin the last stage of the tour. We will come into what is called the East Complex which is set on a level beside the walls comprising the east side of the Main Plaza above.

Panorama: The East Complex

The plaza is more or less symmetrical and consists of three pyramidal structures with patios. The two end pyramids are identical while the one in the middle is longer, but lower and contains a temple on top; none are climbable. There is a large patio in front of the centre pyramid surrounded by a border with columns. Evidently this plaza once had a maginificent air about it.

    East Complex: Triple Pyramids

To the back of these pyramids and on a lower level is the East Ballcourt which is smaller than the others and apparently possessed only one, but interesting, ring which is on display at the site museum. Access to this ballcourt is not permitted although it can be seen from above.

East Ballcourt   

Next to the far pyramid is another unique feature known as the Animal Ramp. This is a covered slope inlaid with stone tiles depicting animals. Sadly, many of these stones are missing, but a lot have been taken to the site museum and are on display there. This ramp was probably ceremonial in function.

    Animal Ramp: Detail

Adjacent to the Animal Ramp is a depression surrounded by patios and columns known as the Sunken Garden.

Sunken Garden   

The trail continues past the divide between the Great Pyramid and the upper levels, marking the public and private spheres of the city, and returns once again to the Grand Plaza where we began. The tour is now concluded.

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