Susie Fishbein wants kosher cooking to take on a bright, new cast: to be simplified for the cook, delectably innovative for diners, and a joy to behold on the table. Oh, and still traditional, of course. Her book, "Kosher by Design" (Artscroll, 2003, $32.99) marshals a persuasive and helpful mass of advice, recipes and color photos to show how you do it. The book abounds in recipes that combine old and new, and festive menus that mix modern and traditional ways of celebrating holidays -- with Rosh Hashana, the Jewish New Year, among them.

What prompted her to write the book?"There was a gaping hole in kosher cookbooks," Fishbein explained in a phone interview. "There were plenty in traditional style, but I felt most modern kosher cooks were looking for something a bit more elegant."So she focuses on stylish translation, keeping true to tradition but giving it a smart new angle where possible, aiming to make preparation easier, and lavishing attention on table settings."Food is open for interpretation," Fishbein said. "There aren't necessarily recipes handed down from the Bible. You can do fun spins in an easy, elegant, modern kosher style - respecting traditional ingredients in a fun, new way.

"Demystifying kosher cooking may be her watchword but that doesn't mean taking shortcuts that sacrifice quality. She insists there's no excuse not to use the abundance of fresh and interesting ingredients available."As a mother of four and someone who values simple, fresh ingredients, I try to push that in my recipes. It makes such a difference," said Fishbein, a cookbook author who lives with her family in Livingston, N.J."You can get almost anything now," she pointed out. "Our supermarkets are so well stocked it makes cooking easier.

"The Rosh Hashana menu combines ingredients that are both symbolic and practical. "Pomegranates, with their 613 seeds representing the 613 mitzvot of the Torah, appear on this menu in the form of Pomegranate Chicken," she writes.The kosher pomegranate juice called for and pomegranate syrup, which may be sold as pomegranate molasses or paste, can be found if you look hard, Fishbein said. "Try a health food store or one that specializes in Mediterranean, Indian, or Persian food items. Alternatively, you can ask your supermarket to special order it."The reason for the long, overnight soak of the chicken in the pomegranate marinade before cooking is mainly for the color, she said. "With the garlic, mint and pepper there's going to be plenty of flavor. The pomegranate is a purpley, burgundy red and it pervades the skin so that it cooks to a wonderful mahogany color."As with all the festive meals, photographed in color by John Uher, the setting for Rosh Hashana is carefully designed. The book may aim to simplify cooking, but it makes the most of presentation "because we eat with our eyes," Fishbein said.

This setting includes symbols of Rosh Hashana, with green orchids matching green apples, and honey straws with a slice of apple at each place setting. "The idea of the green apples guided the choice, and we also included gold for richness," she explained.Gilded goblets and fine china reflect the importance of the day, and in recreating this look in your home, Fishbein suggests, "feel free to add your grandmother's crystal to your own china place settings" for a charming fusion of old and new.

In the book's introduction, Fishbein draws attention to the double meaning of the title: The book, she says, is for "the cook who chooses to cook kosher and who wants to present beautifully designed dishes with style and grace."Her final word: "Above all, have fun. Let each meal be a wonderful journey -- the sharing of something special with people you care about."