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Ron Mattson's Antique Engine Collectors Nametags |
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Ron Mattson's Antique Engine Collectors Nametags |
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If you have an original nametag, a good clear photograph, a drawing or a rubbing of an original nametag I may be able to make a reproduction tag for you. The tags that I produce are not for the more common engines. Those are already being reproduced and I am not trying to reinvent the wheel. But if you have an engine that you can't get a tag for I can supply a custom made one at a reasonable price. What you will get is either a deeply etched brass plate that is the same thickness or thicker then the original, with lettering and art like the original, or a cast plate that has the same appearence as the original.  If you don't have an original tag and have no idea what the original looked like I can produce an etched fantasy tag with the name of the engine and the manufacture's name that would be typical of the period. I can also make personal tags such as; "Restored By" "Owned By" or any wording that you want. These make a nice addition on a wood skid or truck. In order for me to do this I do need something to work from. Either an original, a facsimile of the original or your input as to the size and lettering that you want. The best method is to work from an original tag, this allows me to check the size of the plate, the type of lettering used and the spacing of it's components. THIS IS A MUST IF YOU WANT A CAST TAG. I know what your thinking, if I have a plate I wouldn't be reading this or how the heck do I get an original??!! Sometime you can borrow one from a friend. But a lot of people are reluctant to let them out of their sight. If you can borrow one getting it off the engine with out damage can be fun. Most tags are attached with screws or what look to be rivets. Screws obviously are easy, well maybe. Rivets on the other hand can be trying. Two types of rivets are used. One can be pulled straight out the other needs to turn as it is removed. If you can get to the back of the casting that the plate is attached to and if the rivets stick out, you can usually tap them with a hammer to start them out, then remove them completely with a small pin punch. If you can't get to the back or if there are no through holes, you will have to work from the front. The rivets can be removed by driving a wedge-like device under the head. Your best Snap-On screwdriver works well for this porpoise or, if you are fussy about your tools, a thin blade scraper i.e. putty knife will also work. Be sure to go under the head at an angle so you don't cut the head off and if it needs to turn you will be helping it to do so. (Counter clockwise) Good luck! The next best method is from a clear photograph. This will tell me the same information, except for the over all size of the plate. To know that you will need to give me the measurements. This can be done the old fashion way or by placing a ruler below the plate when you take the picture. In either case it is important to know the over all measurements and the center to center measurements of the attachment holes (It is nice but I can't attach it to my engine, because the damn holes don't line up!) so, if you can, include them also. The least desirable method is a drawing or rubbing. Depending on your artistic skills, a drawing can be sketchy, no pun intended. Rubbings often don't show the details very clearly. But if that is all you can get I will try to work with it. The Measurements mention above are still important so be sure to include them.  Ron Mattson 55 Bishop Hill Rd. Johnston, RI 02919 (401) 934-3539 |
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