Evo Tech

Evo Tech

Nasser Abouheif's Site

The following procedures are meant for Lancia Delta Integrale Evoluzione

Warning

Performing the following modifications on a Lancia Delta Integrale Evoluzione is not simple and should be carried out by a competent mechanic with the right equipment for measuring both fuel pressure and exhaust emissions. Failure to follow the correct procedure can easily result in expensive engine damage. If you choose to perform any of the following modifications, it will be entirely at your risk.

The Holzer manifold really looks very beautiful, I wish it was chromed !!

Carbon Monoxide ( CO ) { by Barry Waterhouse }

Fuel Pressure { by Barry Waterhouse }

Suspension geometry { by Barry Waterhouse}

Tips by Malcom updated ( 2/5/1999 )

My personal tunning experience

Spare Parts

The Performance Page

Carbon Monoxide (C O) : by Barry Water House

This test can only be measured accurately using an in-car exhaust gas analyzer with the car being driven on the road - rolling roads cannot simulate the real throughput of air through the engine compartment. You should ensure that the CO reading is at least 6% and below 9% whenever the turbo pressure is above 0.5 bar (1.5 bar absolute).

Fuel Pressure: by Barry Waterhouse

For group A Abarth chip and standard injectors:

Should be set at 3.2 bar (normal pressure is 2.5 bar ± 0.2 bar) This will enable up to 1.6 bar turbo pressure with standard injectors.

Suspension Geometry: by Barry Waterhouse

For tarmac use, set front camber @ 3.5 deg. negative, rear camber 3 deg. negative, front toe straight ahead (toe in will give sharper turn in at the expense of some nervousness), rear toe in - 1 mm. each side (less toe or toe out will give much more pronounced oversteer). Experiment with tire pressures and all of the above settings.

Personal tuning experience: by Nasser Abouheif

The easiest performance upgrade for an Evo (as of my experience) :

BE FORE WARNED, THE FOLLOWING ITEMS MAY CONTRIBUTE TO REDUCING YOUR EFFECTIVE ENGINE LIFE DEPENDING ON YOUR USE.

The following items are sorted in priority order

Brake pads : Regarding the original pads, it is crucial that you warm them up before you do any serious braking, otherwise you will not be using full stopping power which may easily lead to an accident. If you are ever put in such a situation, don't hesitate to use the engine brake technique or down shifting.

Regarding the Mintex pads, I wanted to buy the M1166 from the UK when I was there but it wasn't available. So I bought the M1144 and I was told that you didn't have to warm it up (unlike the originals) before racing with it. They were correct about that but it took a very long time to bed in. So it was useless for a long time, specially If you want to use the hand brake to skid or U turn on asphalt. The originals were better in this area Thank God that I didn't buy the front set. I hope the M1166 is far more advanced.

A chip from Superchips , or Abarth from Barry Waterhouse Engineering or other sources.
WARNING Special spark plugs to with stand extended high RPM driving and to help prevent fouling and most of all to prevent spark plug melt down (are a must). You can use BOSCH SILVER ELECTRODE W07CS (was recommended to me by Holzer). Barry Waterhouse has another good suggestion also, which is my next purchase.
K & N replacement air filter or better, a 57i kit.
Supersprint group N exhaust system (I got mine from Van Aaken Dev.), it works just fine with me.
VAN AAKEN variable electronic boost control for the Turbo. OPTIONAL (from Van Aaken Dev.). If you use low grade fuel, you can reduce the boost by this device and still be able to kick down the throttle. By adjusting the boost, you could get good performance without knock or detonation.
Removing the catalyst (if your car has one) but it could be illegal in your area.
Koni Top Adjustable suspention.
You might want to consider a Water spray Injection (that sprays water on the surface of the Intercooler), which reduces the air temperature before entering the intake manifold thus reducing detonation.
Holzer exhaust manifold. That manifold should add about 16 BHP. It would've looked beautiful if it was chromed, it's a bit messy to install and resides too close to the fan, in fact we had to make some way for it. I had to rap it with Exhaust Insulating Wrap from Demon Tweaks to reduce the under bonnet temperature. After installation, the exhaust sounded deeper, acceleration was improved noticeably in hi speed. Be fore warned that it is not homologated, meaning that it doesn't relate to a group N or A, which is sort of a handicap. But I can't guarantee that you'll end up without engine damage (piston, rings etc...), as such additions sometimes need very complicated attention after installation .