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My Idle Toughts on Engines
and some Tech Stuff

	Yes, I like 'em Pretty too...and so do my Friends. I do a lot of Big Block Chevys , Hyd Street to Racing Rollers and Everything in Between. Here are a few shots from around the SHOP.
Here I am one late night, putting the finishing touches to a 510 BB Chevy

	�Dark Pink in Background= My 454 Already where it will Live, Between Nova frame rails �Light Pink On Left = 468 Headed for 4x4Chevy Semi-Monster Truck �LeMans Blue on Right = 402 Headed for 68Camaro SS / RS �Convertible
Here's One Shot I just Couldn't Resist Taking�, �3 Big Block Chevys ALL TOGETHER��

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Build or BUY��?

OK, there are good points about both of these. Some people say if they build it , they know what they have. And that's true. But it can get very expensive to piece an engine together.
Do you have the tools to do it right ? Also, a mild rebuild on a stock engine is fairly straight-forward, (a good place to start). But, if you want to build a Monster Roller Motor,they can be a little tricky. If you don't have a fair amount of knowledge under your belt...you may want to farm the work out or buy it already built, (could be cheaper in the long run).
And whatever you do, be very careful when buying an engine you have only heard run with open headers, (like a used race car engine).....
Because Brother you can't hear a thing if something is wrong! Not untill you put it in your car with an exhaust system hooked up .......too late!














































Big Block or Small Block...?

Humm...If it's an Original Restothen put the Original Engine Back in it.
(that was Easy..Right.?)
For the most part it's hard to beat the Small Block Chevy....

The MOUSE

• Easy to Build
• Good parts new & used are every where
• Big Power for Less Bucks (then most other engines)
• light in weight vs power out-put
• pick the size from 262 to 406 (and bigger with "Trick" parts)
• Much "Trick" stuff developed for it at a decent price.
• Just has been around forever (ok ...since 1955)

The RAT
Pop the Hood....and ....Nothing Looks Like a RAT.....!!!
Theres an old saying...." There's No Substute for Cubic Inches"
A 454 can make 400HP without breaking a sweat..

• Still easy to build , but will cost you more$$$..!
• Heavy , most cars don't handle as well with the extra weight in front.
• Turque Monsters , don't need Big RPM to make Power (Torque)
• Visual Appeal , they do have a look all their owne!
• Bad on Gas......(if you wanna drive a lot..it's worth considering)
• Good Parts are around....but their not cheap.
• Likes to break every thing behind it (clutchs,trans , rears, )...Torque!

For a GREAT all around street car.....I like a Mouse.

For Big Power .........RAT ME..!

































































CAMS
Bigger is not always better.
Many people over cam. It's a common mistake.

The cam want's to Rev. to 8500 rpm....BUT..the bottom end checks out at 7800..!! It's a science ..and the Cam Companys know what their doing...call them. There are "Tried & True" factory cams (or similar) that work, and work well. GET REAL....don't kid your self...if it's a street car don't go nuts on the cam.
A little to small is easier to live with the a lot to big.
Look at it as a combination, intake, cam, head, rear, carb, trans..all have to work together!

• Hyd = the BEST choice for most cars.


• Solid = More RPM , but more time to 'keep up'.


• Solid Roller = Race Car / Pro Street Stuff...don't live real long on the street!


• Hyd Roller = The Best of all for street...But a lot of $$$

Do your Homework..make calls , talk to people, ask questions,and don't lie when the Cam tech asks you what you are gonna use the car for the most.




































































Compression
8.5 is too low ��12.1 is to high

I like 10:1 or 10.5 for a street car. It will run on Pump Gas and have some Umph! If the Cam is big , you can get away with higher,but don't flip-out. I'm talking 10:75 to 11:25 or so . I don't like having to add those little expensive cans of octane booster to my tank. It's a pain in the butt, and I'm already spending enough $$ on Premium Fule. Like I said ,,It's a good combo of all the stuff working together. A RACE ONLY Engine is a different animal, they run on $5+ a gallon race fuel. Travel a 1/4 mile at a time ....and need big compression(12:1+) to support their big cams.
Enough said.





































































HEADS

Get the Best ones you can afford for your combo.
And beware of modified heads (port&polishetc..) They may look pretty...BUT do the WORK? I'm not talking about ones done by the PROS ...(they can test and research) it's those swap meet ones, you know the ones you got a deal on , but cracked, blew a head gasket, and then finally droped a valve , and turned your engine into a Anchor! (what a deal..!!) And..Don't spend $2000. for trick aluminun heads, on a $900. Engine! ....why?
THINK, research , talk and call.......it's all in the combo.






































































RPM

High R's are ok for a well built and maintained RACE Engine.
But they can hurt things fast..real fast.,,! (ever have a small block drop a valve a 8400.)
I did once....anybody need an Anchor?
I love Rev Limiters.....and you will to . The first time you miss a high rpm shift ...you'll thank me.





















































Ignition

In the Old Days , it was Dual Point with the biggest Coil you could find.... Boy do I �NOT� MISS� those Days...! Today there is so much Good stuff out there . I Have been using MSD Boxes since the late 70's......and I love them! For a potent street car it's hard to beat the MSD 6AL-2 with the built in Rev-Limiter. For a Race Car....I like the MSD-7 Series (this thing will throw a lightning Bolt over 6"..!) Also, there are some other people getting into the act.....and their stuff may work.
But for me, MSD is it.

on GEO