Internet Link Exchange
Member of the Internet Link Exchange

Tech Stuff
The Carb Formula
Is It A REAL Street Car......?
and how to tell.

  • 14:1Compression
  • 5,500rpm Converter
  • Giant Roller Cam
  • 4:88 Gears w/Spool
  • 2 Holley 1150's?(and a Simlpe Formula
    to Find the One You Need.
    )
  • Full Roll Cage
  • Good Advice
  • A Modified "Family" Car,

  • hosted by GEOCITIES






































    14:1 CR!

    14 to 1 Needs Real Special GAS, They sell it at the race track (for around $5 per Gallon)..
    But NOT at your local corner Gas Station...So your out of Gas.. on the street.
    Really anything past 10.5:1 can get a little hairy










































    A Modified "Family" car..?

    Because although a lot of people try to combine Both. Most don't have much luck with it.
    Granted this computer age has brought the two together pretty well, but I'm not talking
    1997 Z's , Vetts, or Stangs etc.. here. Were talking Old Muscle..the stuff we can afford.
    The stuff that you can say "Ya, I built it".�Not ,"dad bought it for me it was $30,000+.."
    Don't get me wrong I like the New (Quick) stuff too.....
    But the factory built that. Not You. I'm talking about you..Building!
    And a modified "Family" car, well usually isn't really all that fast.................is it?
    I have built a lot of cars for myself and for others. Shoot for a "Real World" combo that you can live with.
    The Montie SS's , and clones are a good place to start.










































    Roller Cams?

    Giant Solid & Roller Cams beat the hell outof valve springs, valve guides, seats, pushrods
    you name it.�� And they like to ware themselves out, and needa lot of attention. Valve adjustments,
    checking the springs.......MOST of the time a nice Hi-Lift Hyd...can bethe Answer.
    Or a nice solid grind. I alwaws liked the L-78 Cam for a Big Block, andthe 70 Z/28 solid for a Small Block.
    Remember, cam, head, cr, gear and trans must all work together.































































    High Stall Converters

    Really needed in a Big Cammed Race Car . 10",9", 8",or smaller!
    Stall Speeds like 3000, 3500, 4000 , + RPM are needed to launch a race car.
    On the street, I found them to be just too much!
    And a super Hi-Stall Converter makes a lot of heat (shorter trans life)....and can be a pain-in-the-but!
    I've been in cars that Rev to 4000rpm , just backing out of the driveway.
    Oh Ya....that gas goes away in a hurry too!










































    Full Roll Cage?

    Ever try squeezing over a full roll bar , just to make a quick trip to the store..? (Fun.....NOT!)
    It's for safty in a race car. And the nice NHRA / IHRA tech. man will tell you when you need one.
    If you want it just for looks.....well that's up to you.










































    Carbs.

    Ok, the bigger the better works in race cars,most of the time. A 500cid Pro Stock car will run two1150+ Holleys !
    Do they need it? They must! They are built by people who know.
    Do YOU? Only if you wanna wipe the rings out of your engine.
    Usually , on the street you want Torque! �And many times that comes from a smaller carb.
    Big carbs get soggy off idle, then really come on top end.
    It's been said the Holley 3310 is one of the most running carbs ever built.�Ido agree.
    780cfm or 750cfm , Vacume secondaries, real tuneable with electric choke,trick kits, springs etc...
    GM used it on everything from the legendary 69 Z/28 302, To the LS-6 454.
    I use them on most of the real street cars from 327 and up cid.
    The 1850 600cfm is a decent choice also . Good on the 305's or any high torque lower rpm application.

    The FORMULA

    Here's a simple way to ballpark your carb cfm needs: ( grab a calculator )
    Engine Cubic Inch, times Max engine RPM, devided by 3456= your cfm at 100%VE.
    Now for a street car, minus 10% or so = answer!

    Example:
    1.454cubic inches, times 6000rpm = 2724000.
    2.Now devide 2724000 by 3456=788 (788cfm @ 100%ve)
    3.Now , minus 10%=709 (709cfm)
    DONE! a ball-park figure.
    you can decide your VE. (5, 10, 15 %) and take it from there.











































    4:88 with a Spool.

    You just can't drive a 600HP, 4:88 reared car20 miles to work every day....and expect it to live.
    Un less your really rich or really clueless.....So Don't. �It's a weekend car or a race car.
    Treat it like one.
    A SpooL! Did anyone tell you that a car with a Full Spool Rear don't liketo
    turn corners , (very interesting on the off ramps at 35mph) and it breaks axles too.
    Stick with a good posi. unit.










































    Some Good Advice


    I tell my street customers " build a high 12'sor 13's car , and when the need
    for speed hits you, juice it into the low 11's".�It's the closest thing to getting it all out of one car.
    And Remember a big CAM and Heads with a 3:08 rear isn't gonna work.
    A great car is a great combonation of all things working together.
    Do research , call manufacturers tech lines , talk to other people with cars that for some
    strange reason just happen to RUN. In the end it's still a little Trial& Error......
    But you can avoid a lot of money and time wasteing by doing a little homework.

    I wish you the BEST of LUCK with your project.

    History Buttons

    Hosted by www.Geocities.ws

    1