Diary of the GR5 Walk in 1999

The day starts well. I wake up easily at 6:30 am, one benefit of still having jet lag. I am showered and packed up by 7:00. Breakfast is at 7:30 and I am on my way to the station a little after 8:00 am.

I feel a bit like a goose walking down the main street with my shorts, walking boots and backpack. The early morning commuters on the trams seem to be staring at me as they pass. Even at this time of the day there is someone on the streets trying to sell me drugs.

Karel meets the train at Leiden and at 10:15 we are at Hoek van Holland taking photographs of each other next to the signpost marking the start of the LAW 5-1 which is also the start of the GR5. I expect the first section, 24 km from Hoek van Holland to Brielle, to be tough for my first day. I know I have not prepared enough for the journey that is ahead. The topo-gids are good and having Karel to translate is certainly appreciated.

The two blisters I complained about yesterday are quite sore but the boots are not aggravating them as much as the track shoes did. Progress is slow and I feel already that this will be a long tiring day. Fortunately the weather is good, overcast but not raining.

We stop at Maassluis for lunch. A very overweight man tends the restaurant-bar. I suspect he has taken an instant dislike to us. He seems to prefer his regular customers at the bar. Perhaps the effort of walking over to us to take our order is too much for him. Who knows. Serving food does not seem to be this establishment's main purpose and there are no other alternatives. This has been the only place we have found since lunch was contemplated several hours ago. Still we do manage to get some good onion soup and a couple of Dutch croquettes. This is the first time I have tried them and it may be my last. They will not replace the good old crumbed sausage, but then they probably weren't meant to.

Fourteen km down and only ten left to go. My feet are getting sore because of the two blisters and carrying the extra burden of my 16-kg backpack. One good point is that the blisters I expected on my heels have not eventuated. But there will be time enough in the weeks ahead to complain. On with the walk.

We ferry across the Mass (0.70 Hfl) walk across three bridges and continue with what turns out to be a rather long walk into the walled town of Brielle. Along the way we watch two large ships pass under the bridge across the Caland Kanaal.

The Atlas Hotel provides me with a good room (75 Hfl for room with shower, breakfast included) and Karel and I enjoy a pizza in the Italian restaurant across the street.

I have sore feet, chaffed groin and am very tired but not miserable. Karel has left, wishing me bon voyage, and I believe that it would not need a lot of persuading to entice him to join me for the entire walk. I am now on my own.