The Odyssey of a Seahawk:
From Hilton Head, South Carolina, to Zilina, Slovakia,
with the Fulbright Teacher Exchange Program



snow, snow, snow!!!

18 Nov - 22 Dec

feeling right at home now . . .

18 November 1999
I could not see the Leonids through the snow!! I got up at 3 am to the snowy sound of silence and it was snowing so much, the sky was a white haze. For quite a while I just watched it silently swirl and fall. There is as much snow on the ground now as there EVER was in Washington (and usually in January). And this is only the third real day of snow and it is only November. There is an entire winter of this, and it is so exciting! I get to wear my new boots today! Whooo Hooo!

The new Friendship magazine is in, so I am going to do " The Old Man and the Sea" with my classes. Went over vocabulary and read the short biography of Hemingway in 4.D. The kids don't have to just learn the vocabulary, they have to learn it in English! So it is not just a matter of knowing that "virtues" is "cnostami" in Slovak, but the students also have to know that it means "qualities of moral excellence or goodness of character." I try to have the students explain what the word means in English, without resorting to the English-Slovak dictionary, but we are not always successful. Thursday conversation (aka, the Black Hole)--5 out of 12 showed today. But they are ahead of my other classes. But they are certainly in for a scolding next week! We played Brain Games (oral comprehension, changing existing sentences into other sentences by following oral directions and changing letters).

Tonight was a pre-opening party for Kompass Cafe--a new coffee/tea house in Zilina. Josh, an American who works with a church organization here, is one of the people in charge of this. It looks like it is going to be a really nice place. Non-smoking, no alcohol is served, it is a great alternative to the pubs to which the kids go with almost alarming regularity. There are comfortable couches, tables, a nice reading room that hopefully will soon host a computer or two with Internet access, and the prices are inexpensive for the kids. Teachers and community members were invited tonight so that they can spread the word. I have already decided that I am going to take my conversation classes there the first week it is opened. A coffee drink, with whipped cream and all, costs about 50 cents, so I think I can spring for coffee for my classes this week!

19 November 1999
Today in 3.A, we played Guess What? The students had to describe the word without using any part of the word (e.g., basketball, could not use "basket" or "ball" in the description). It was fun--the kids never cease to amaze me with their enthusiasm. Am writing a quick note after school, as I am leaving for Vienna today! I am going to see Nine Inch Nails in concert tomorrow night. I have not been to a concert in years, and am VERY excited about this. Josh, Will and I would play Nine Inch Nails in my classroom (good old F-101) when they were my aides. Trent Reznor is a little angst-y for a 35-year old, but I think that is why I like him so much! Found a hostel in the middle of town for $10 a night!!!! Can't wait!

20 November 1999
Vienna was interesting. I could definitely tell I was in "Western Europe" by the traffic. I have driven through Warsaw and Budapest, but I actually got a little lost in Vienna. Arrived last night, and by the time I got to the hostel, I had basically enough time to grab some dinner and read a book before bed. It is a beautiful city, although I may be a little biased, I like Warsaw and Krakow a little better. Maybe it is the fact that I have traveled to all these amazing places by myself, that I am getting a little bored going at it alone. But then again, who else would want to do what I wanted to do this weekend? First stop: the obligatory walking tour of the city. It is quite striking. My hostel was right near the center of town, so it was a short walk to the museum district. HUGE shopping district. It was a little odd, even though I have only been out of the US for three months, I was a little awed at all the shops in the shopping district. The streets were decorated for the holiday season, but the lights were not lit this morning.


Freud's house: the home of psychoanalysis


St. Stephen's Cathedral

 Spent HOURS in the Sigmund Freud Museum! It was actually kind of funny--the catalogue for the Freud Museum (which was actually his home before he fled the Nazis)--is immense. It is about two inches thick and it describes every single thing in the house with incredible detail. Every little knick-knack! The museum also shows films of the Freud family. It was very, very interesting. When I was in graduate school, Dr. Belknap used to have a stuffed Freud doll who, when you pulled his string, would spout psychobabble. I was handed the doll and told to pull his string when I said something particularly offhand or challenging. I think I had the honor of pulling the string more than anyone else in the class (big surprise!). It really was odd to be in the very house in which he lived and practiced. Now I have to visit the Freud House in London! There was also a Freud exhibit at the Austrian National Library, entitled "Conflict and Culture," which featured many documents, but what everyone seemed drawn to (of course) were the audio-visual aids--that is, Freud's theories in popular culture, movies, cartoons, and television shows (including The Simpsons!). Of course, Hitchcock was in this presentation A LOT!

Went to St. Stephen's Cathedral, an absolutely stunning church. The choir was practicing, and it was as if a private concert had been arranged for those of us in the church. So I sat and listened to them for quite a while. Beautiful. Unfortunately, the catacombs were closed, so I could not go on a tour. Next time.

Then it was time to go to the concert. I had my voucher to pick the ticket up at the door. Luckily, there were quite a few people my age there. That is one thing I was afraid of!!! So, the concert starts, and the warm-up band, Atari Teenage Riot, is HORRIBLE. I know I must be getting old, as the ticket said the concert would start at 8, the concert did not start until 9:30!!!! I was only slightly annoyed. The concert hall was a chairless, big ash tray and beer keg. Not pleasant, but once the music started, all was forgiven. It really was a fantastic show. I was only able to find his new CD, The Fragile, in Budapest, and had devoured it the weeks before. Completely worth the drive to Vienna and waiting 1-1/2 hours for the show. The concert ended late, and many, many, MANY people caught the tram back into town, but I managed to get onto one and make my way back to the hostel. Quite a successful day.

21 November 1999
Drove home early from a quick but great weekend. It is about a four hour drive from Zilina to Vienna, and I wanted to get back early to get some work done for school next week. I will go back to Vienna in December for a day with the school.
22 November 1999
Another Monday morning in Zilina. Started Friendship's "The Old Man and the Sea" with 4.D. I made a deal with them. We cannot spend the entire year in the computer lab writing e-mails, so we will go once or twice a month (I only see them once a week). They were understandably disappointed, but they also understood. It never ceases to amaze me how mature these students are.

Finished the U.S. in conversation! Finally on the last leg of this arduous journey. Nothing outstanding occurred.

23 November 1999
We reviewed last week's test in 3.D. Instead of starting another unit with them, we played oral comprehension games instead. It gave them a chance to talk, and we had fun. Finished the U.S. in conversation. Six students absent. It is consistently the same students who are absent, and these students rarely (if ever) speak in class (well, speak in English in class!!). The dilemma is, they are great kids! Whenever I talk with them outside of class, or we are goofing off and not talking about the exam topics in class, they participate and laugh and talk, but the minute we talk about exam topics, they become clams. I can't force them to speak, I can't force them to come to class, and I don't know how to make the topics any more interesting.

Started Slovak lessons! Finally!! I know the generals, like how to decline simple verbs, and the basics, but NEED to learn the language.

24 November 1999
My darling Wednesday morning 4.D! Started "The Old Man and the Sea." They had read it in Slovak Language class (obviously, akin to our English classes, where we read world literature--funny, American literature is "world literature" here!!!). I know that Jana is very close to these students, and I can see why. They are very genuine and sincere. And of course, hard working. I love watching how close these kids are with each other. Each class is a little community, close, supportive, and generous. I have NEVER, truly never, seen any student make fun of another student, or deride another, or refuse to help a classmate. This extends to their entire world--teachers, parents, environment. I have to do a little research into this, but I am convinced that small class (and school) sizes might indeed be the answer to our school/student problems. Yes, we would need more schools, yes, it would be a logistical nightmare, but it might be worth it; move away from the Pink Floyd "The Wall"-ish sausage grinders of schools we have now and establish smaller "learning communities" (people are so fond of that phrase, but I don't know if anyone, myself included, knows what it means) where students really get a chance to know each other, look out for one another, and depend on each other. Sometimes I am overwhelmed with the good feeling that exudes from the walls of this school, from the cleaning staff to the headmaster and everyone in between. In the first half of 3.C, we started "The Old Man and the Sea" (vocabulary and Hemingway biography) and in the second half, they took the test that I gave a couple of weeks ago. We seem to laugh a lot in this class and get a smidge sidetracked!! They also missed one class to attend the EcoFilm a few weeks ago, so we are a little late in taking the test. These students have a great sense of humor. At the beginning of the school year, at the beginning of the second lesson I had with them, one student came in who had missed the first class. He plopped himself into his seat and announced, "I'm Bob." First of all, it was hilarious because "Bob" is not a nickname for Robert here, "Robo" is, second, the clipped, matter-of-fact, and impish way he said it was hilarious! I liked him instantly. It took me a few weeks to get all of their names straight (ok, a few months!!!), and when I would call out two names in particular, two other students would assign nicknames to them, and they have stuck. J. Slivka is "Mr. Plum," as slivka is Slovak for plum, and B. Pivko is "Mr. Beer," as pivo is Slovak for beer (actually, pivko is "small beer."). So while the other students are called by their first names, Bob, Mr. Beer and Mr. Plum remain to this day. In conversation we did the oral communication Brain Games and started on the new topic: "Communication and Information" . As soon as I get the permission of the author, I will post a sample conversation topic page, so that you can see what these kids have to know for their school leaving exams. It is wild. Examples--try to form a definition of language, what do you know about the differences between the English and Slovak languages, what are similarities and differences among languages.

Valent took the car in for the annual maintenance today. I didn't even have to go-he just took it for me. I am always so touched when that family does something for me.

My evenings are usually spent in the same way. I run errands or go shopping after school, take a walk or go out for coffee or tea, come home, prepare lesson for the next day, read, watch the BBC news, make dinner, and spend the evening either reading or doing some thing on the computer. Lots of times I write letters or write my journal, or talk to Mary Beth or my parents through Internet. Although tonight I listened to the Charlie Brown Christmas CD (No, Wito, NOT YOURS!!) and wrapped presents. I am almost finished shopping for Christmas presents!! I cannot say what they are, but I am able to get something for almost everyone. I hope they like them. I am sending them out tomorrow.

25 November 1999
This morning Dana and I went to the Customs Office to mail my Christmas presents. After I had meticulously wrapped my presents last week, everyone told me that you have to show the customs agents what you are sending and you have to WRAP THE PRESENTS IN FRONT OF THEM if you want to send wrapped packages. Otherwise, you just have to seal the box in front of a customs agent. It goes without saying that I e-mailed my cousin Maureen and asked her if she would be so kind as to wrap my presents for me. As it turns out (as mostly everyone goes to Maureen and Marty's for Christmas, I took a chance and did not unwrap the presents for that box), I did not wrap the rest of the boxes, but kept the big box's contents (to Maureen's) wrapped. The other contents I did not waste the time wrapping if only to have to unwrap them in front of a customs agent. So Dana was kind enough (again) to go to the Customs Office with me. I had five or six boxes (one really big one, five smaller ones) to send, and after the agent asked me what was in them (I had to open a few boxes to show him what I had), he gave the approval that they could be sealed and wrapped and addressed. In addition to being sealed, the box had to be wrapped in paper, as I had one hell of a time finding white wrapping paper in this town!!! So I had to wrap the scanner box filled with presents for Atlanta in white wrapping paper, address it, and then wrap string around it. So Dana and I spent the better


my darlings from 4.D
part of an hour wrapping and addressing boxes, and what did I do? FORGET THE STRING!!!!! We were late for lesson, rushed to class, and the agents (who, thank goodness, took pity on the poor, stupid American) kept the boxes for me at the office until the afternoon when I could come with string and pay for the postage (of course, the office closed at 2:30!!!!!!). I didn't even bat an eye about trusting them with the presents--that is how people are here-- you can immediately tell if you can trust someone or not (more often can than not). I had to laugh, though, at how we had to wrap the packages in front of them. But I felt like I could not make a joke about the plutonium I was hiding in the box, I imagine that would not go over well, even with the language barrier!! I cannot imagine doing that at the good old Fairfield Station on Hilton Head!!! I mean, at Mail Boxes, Etc. (Hi Lauri!!!!) people paid us to wrap their packages and take them to the post office, as a service, not a legal requirement!

Finished reading "The Old Man and the Sea" with the other half of 4.D. What a joy this class is. (I know this is getting to be my mantra) The dynamics of the two halves of 4.D are interesting. Wednesday's 4.D are very laid back and mellow and all the great things I mentioned earlier. They are true flower children. Thursday's 4.D are chatty (in a really good way--they converse a lot ), full of energy, and always are ready for the next adventure (or game, or topic of conversation). In each class, the students blend with each other perfectly. They have been together for four years, so maybe they have grown that way together, but they all complement each other so well. I have 3.D for two lessons (a regular old 90 minute block). We read "The Sniper" today. I know, it is not American Lit, but I love that story, and it is rather timely, as former Sen. Mitchell is in Ireland now solidifying the Good Friday peace talks. We listened to U2's Sunday, Bloody Sunday to get us in the mood to read the story. For some reason, I am hooked on irony this year, as they pointed out to me at the end of this story. Yet another opportunity for me to "preach" (in my ever so subtle way) about man's inhumanity towards man. After we read the story, they had to write one of their own. We had a Round Robin Story session. Each student started by writing a paragraph, and then at the end of 7 minutes, the paper was passed to the next person who had to continue the story. The students wrote in a circle for 45 minutes and they had to write a five paragraph short story with a beginning, middle, and end. I can't wait to read them. I was going to start "The Old Man and the Sea" with both sections of 2.D, but the other class had so much fun with the Round Robin Story, that I decided to do it with 2.D also. Huge success. OK, confession time. Hardly anyone showed for conversation today. So what did we do? Well, as my classes do not end until 3 pm every day (which is quite late here), and the Customs Office would be closed, we went into the town, bought string for Ms. White (they call my Julie here!!), and went to the Customs Office! The students helped interpret for me, we wrapped the string around the boxes (apparently no box can leave this country unless it is protected with string!), and I paid the postage. Marek told me 9,000 crowns. I almost had a heart attack. That is $225.00!!! He apologized, he heard the agent say something else; it was only 4000 crowns ($100) to mail six fairly heavy packages to the US. A lot less than I thought it would be. So, that was our conversation class.

26 November 1999
Started actually doing work with 3.A today. We started "The Old Man and the Sea," and I asked them what they knew about Hemingway, or if they could tell me anything he had written, and Zuzana said, "Bye bye guns." "Co (sounds like CHoe, means "what")???" I asked her. She said bye-bye guns again, and I finally figured out she was talking about A Farewell to Arms!!!! Today they proved that they do classwork as well as they play games. Very good class, everyone participated and read and took vocabulary notes. In conversation class, we did a round robin story. It went very well.

27 November 1999
Did not much of anything today. Snow on the ground, beautiful! Took a walk, read, the usual.

28 November 1999
Went to Mass this morning. I bought a Mass Book in Slovak, with the order of the Mass in it. I am finding that I am forgetting what the English responses are (I used to be able to respond in English while everyone else was responding in Slovak--no more). It is easy to follow along in the book, and I can translate a little; so it will be interesting to go to Mass in the States and see how long it takes to get the hang of it again!

29 November 1999
4.C went very well today. We finished "The Old Man and the Sea," reviewed vocabulary for "A Clean, Well-Lighted Place," and read it. They were able to pinpoint the theme of alienation and loneliness and I think they enjoyed it. In conversation we started the "Communication and Information" topic. I assigned students to work on sub topics in pairs, and they had to present the results of their discussion to the class. One of the sub topics is comparing words like milk, water, and three in French, German, English, and Slovak. We also talked about Asian languages, such as Chinese, in which symbols are used instead of letters. I asked if anyone knew the Chinese characters for "Peace." One student came to the board and wrote the math symbol for pie + ss, quite clever, I thought). Another one came to the board and drew a stick man urinating! (gross, but clever!!) They seemed interested to know that the characters for peace are home (woman under a house), equality, and no hunger (man with bag of grain). What a great concept--if everyone had that, there would be peace. Sadly, a concept that will probably never be realized. The United States is sooo huge and has so much, and it seems as though we might be able to share a little more with nations that do not have as much (through no fault of their own, some nations cannot help that the live on a desert or unarable land). A place like Sam's Club or Wal-Mart would be an abomination here--the contents in just the Sam's Club on Hilton Head could probably feed a few Indonesian villages for weeks.

30 November 1999
The Round Robin Stories have worked so well in the other classes, that we are putting aside Mr. Hemingway for the day and do those. Amid much laughter, some serious writing was going on. This group of girls seems very creative. As well as yesterday's conversation class went, today's conversation class was its antithesis. They rarely present serious discussions to the class, don't talk much during class, I feel as though I am plodding through the mud in this class. I feel as though it is the most boring thing in the world to them. Aaaarrrrggggghhhhhhh!


the videographer taping me taking a picture of him!

 1 December 1999
So much for "The Old Man and the Sea" with 4.D! Their stuzkova is Saturday night, and a professional videographer came today to film part of our class session for their video. At the beginning of the video of the event will be scenes from Zilina, the gymnazium, the hallways and activity in the hallway, and some classroom scenes. I didn't know he was coming, and wore jeans to school today. Sorry, mother!! After the man left, one of the students brought out a videotape of Hair. I told you they were flower children! They wanted to watch it, and seeing as we had about 30 minutes left, and seeing as Hair is my absolute favorite musical of all time (they didn't know that when they brought it, but were happy to hear it!), of course we watched it. I tried to justify watching it by talking about the Vietnam War and the hippie generation, but eventually I just shut up and enjoyed the film with the rest of the kids. In the first half of 3.C, we read more of "The Old Man and the Sea," but did not finish it. This group of students is VERY intelligent. They are well read, and not just compulsory material. We are able to have in-depth conversations about almost anything. In the second half of 3.C, we started "The Old Man and the Sea."


Wednesday conversation at Kompass

 Today Kompass Cafe opened, and I took my conversation students there. I plan to take all of my conversation classes there this week. We drank tea and coffee (my treat) and had class in one of their back rooms. It was very nice. Unfortunately, ten out of my eighteen students did not show up. We continued with Communication and Information. Very mellow, very relaxing to sit in a cafe and have class. I think the kids felt kind of special, going there, having class, and then being able to stay after with their friends. It felt as though ALL of Gymnazium vel'ka okruzna was there the first day. I am glad--it is such a positive place for the kids to go (pubs being the other alternative). I am definitely going to do this again.

2 December 1999
In 4.D this morning, the students did Round Robin Stories. True to the dynamics of this class, I heard more laughter in this class than in any other (and there had been a lot before!). I am very much looking forward to reading these. In 3.D, I had the students proofread and correct th e round robin stories from the previous week. Then we reviewed vocabulary for "An Occurrence at Owl Creek Bridge." Unfortunately, they have never heard of the Twlight Zone and it would have been a HUGE waste of time to try to explain it, so I let it drop "An Occurrence at Owl Creek Bridge" is one of the most famous Twlight Zone episodes.) In the first half of 2.D, we read "The Old Man and the Sea." I learned how to say Happy Birthday and Happy Name's Day in Slovak. In addition, I took my conversation class to Kompass. We had a great time. We actually had a great conversation, and managed to stick to the topic!

Another concert tonight. Handel, Slovak composer Ladislav Kupkovic, and Beethoven. Karol Kevicky, the conductor (or dirigent), is HILARIOUS ! He is only 26, and always looks so happy to be conducting music. He puts his whole body into it, it is a truly joyous experience for him, and for us. And he appears to have complete respect from his musicians. The entire orchestra is fantastic. It is a small theatre, and Irina always get me second row tickets, so I can really see the faces of the musicians as they play--it is marvelous.

3 December 1999
In 3.A today we actually finished "The Old Man and the Sea"!! Hooray! We also accomplished vocabulary for "A Clean, Well-Lighted Place." Otherwise uneventful. Took conversation class to Kompass. Another great experience. We sat in comfortable chairs, drank our coffee or tea, and discussed information and communication. Finished the topic, talked about weekend plans, and class was dismissed. Many, many students were there on a Friday afternoon, so most of the students stayed as well. It was great.

4 December 1999
STUZKOVA!! click to go there

5 December 1999
Sleeping, sleeping, and sleeping!! Did not much of anything today but recover from last night's/this morning's wonderful party.

6 December 1999
I cannot get over how cold it is here and how much I love it! The snow is heavy, white, and beautiful! Read "The Sniper" with 4.A. I love that story and the kids did too. I played "Sunday, Bloody Sunday" by U2 for them before we read the story and we went over what they know about "The Troubles" in Northern Ireland. They were quite well-informed. I was not surprised! Unfortunately, we could not go to Kompass today, as they are closed on Mondays. The kids kind of whined for a while and asked why we couldn't go numerous times. I couldn't figure out if they really didn't understand that the place was closed on Mondays or if they were trying to annoy me. They succeeded. I told them they could go to Kompass, arrange for it to be open one Monday, and I would be glad to take them! Was still a little tired from all the excitement of the weekend, so went to bed early.

7 December 1999
The girls of 3.D started "The Old Man and the Sea" today. They have already read this in Slovak language, and know the story very well. I am curious to see how they will react to it in English. Everyone paid attention, they took turns reading, took copious vocabulary notes. One student was able to define the word "posthumous" using context clues! I was very excited and impressed. Conversation class went to Kompass today. Even there they didn't talk that much! I feel badly for them, as I completely understand how hard it is to learn and speak a foreign language (I feel like a MORON when I attempt to speak Slovak), but they chose to take English for their school-leaving exams and HAVE to speak in class! It is quite frustrating. I bought a couple of books in Vienna and am spending nights reading and talking to my parents through the computer. Early to bed tonight, as I have to be at the bus stop at 5:30 tomorrow morning for a field trip to Vienna. The second and third year German students are going for the day. Apparently there is a great Christmas market. Sona is going too, and I am really glad.


on the bus to Vienna

 8 December 1999
Went to Vienna today. On the way there, the kids wanted to stop at a mall--these virtually don't exist in Slovakia. We stopped at a very big mall--and I was so surprised. I know it has only been three months that I have been here, but everything looked so BIG at the mall. The kids had about an hour and a half, and Sona and I walked around during that time. She was looking for a dress for her daughter for her dance class recital/ball, and I was just marveling at all the STUFF that was in the mall. There was a really great orange wool sweater that I now wish I had bought. We went into this Wal-Mart looking place (grocery store, department store) and my jaw practically dropped to the floor when I saw all the aisles and the variety of products in the grocery store. Like I said, it has only been three months, and I have eight to go, so I cannot
imagine the culture shock I am going to have when I get back to the US. One thing that made us laugh so hard we almost could not control ourselves was that I saw these upright wooden contraptions that to me looked like walkers, you know, what a person who has difficulty walking might use. There were at least 40 of them on display in one part of the store, by the cash registers. I said to Sona, "What are those, walkers?" She asked me what that was, I told her, and she started laughing hysterically!! I had no idea why until she told me, through her laughter, that they were SLEDS!!!!!!!! Then I started laughing!! I felt like a southern idiot!!! Of course they were sleds, we are in the north, but they were standing up, and I had no clue as to what they were. It did seem odd to me that they were selling walkers in the store, but that is what they looked like-- albeit rustic and wooden, walkers! Vienna was great. It is a beautiful city, and I am glad that I was there with other people this time. We went to the Christmas market--fantastic wooden booths selling glass ornaments, toys, clothing, sweets, coffee and hot mulled wine (which I have discovered is EVERYWHERE during the Christmas season), there was a little


the Austrian Parliament

 amusement park for kids, beautiful Christmas lights everywhere. It snowed just a little bit, but it really didn't stick. At first I was a little paranoid, as every time I have been on a field trip, things are written down meticulously, head counts are taken constantly (of course, I count heads obsessively), and I was always nervous that something bad would happen. The kids here were completely trusted, and they were aware of what time they were to return to the bus, and the kids who chose to stay with us and the guide did just that. Sona and I had coffee at the market ($3 for an espresso! Vienna is a little pricey), and went to St. Stephens Cathedral. On the way back to the bus, Sona showed me the balcony from which Hitler made a speech during the Anschlauss. I must admit that was a little creepy. We got back into Zilina at about 9 pm, just in time to go to sleep and get ready for yet another day away from my classes at Gymnazium Vel'ka okruzna--this time for the English Olympiad tomorrow.

9 December 1999
Barbora was in charge of the English Olympiad and asked me to help her. In Slovakia, each school subject has its own "Olympiad." Kind of like individual


the balcony from which Hitler spoke
Academic Challenges, but nation-wide (sometimes continent-wide). Students compete first in their home schools, then go on to city Olympiads, then regional olympiads, and then on to nationals. All foreign languages, geography, maths, and sciences have competitions (as well as some sports, chess, etc.). There was quite a large turn-out at our school today. The competitors are divided into experience: 1-2 year students, 3-4 year students, and students who have lived abroad. They had to take a written grammar exam, and then had to participate in an oral role-play and t ell a story about a photograph. All of the students did really well. Some were more nervous than others, but I was incredibly impressed with how they did. The student who won 1-2 year, Martin H. was AMAZING. His story was so intricate and imaginative, and his oral skills were excellent. So we now have three students to compete in the city-wide competition in February.

10 December 1999
I was a little miffed today at 3.A. ONLY THREE KIDS SHOWED UP!!!!!! This class is notorious for their absences (although some of them are legitimate, as they participate in sports events throughout the


anxiously awaiting the Olympiada results


Jana, Zuzana, and Dusan, the darlings who showed

 the country), so I don't know if they were absent for a reason or not today. The three kids who did show up (bless their hearts!) just asked me questions about the United States and my school, I brought out the year book and some postcards and pictures I had at school, and we had a really relaxed, nice class. Conversation went to Kompass today. I have said it 8,000 times before: I LOVE those kids! We had a great time and got a lot of work done (finished the topic).

11 December 1999
Stayed in town again this weekend. Have decided to go to Rome for the Christmas break, so I am going to save a little bit of money. Went shopping in town (although on Saturdays, all the shops close at noon), took a nice long walk, had lunch in a pizzaria (with a book as company). It is cold and crisp and beautiful here.

12 December 1999
Another lazy Sunday. Decided to clean house today instead of Saturday. Found where Jana keeps her Christmas tree and ornaments and put up the tree today. I was not going to, as I am not going to be here at Christmas, but decided that I wanted to have a little decoration in the house, even if it is just for a couple of weeks.

13 December 1999
4.A got the professional stuzkova video back and we watched it during class. It was really good--and it showed the ceremonies that go on before the night of the ball. The teacher wears a green sash over her shoulder, and a day or so before the party, all of the students sign it. It is such a wonderful custom, it seems to have so much more meaning than anything we do in the States. So, of course, in conversation class, we watched the video too!

14 December 1999
In 3.D, I had the girls proofread each other's Round Robin Stories. At first they had no idea what I was talking about when I said proofread, but after explaining it and saying "editing," I think they got it. I think it was good practice for them to catch grammar and punctuation mistakes. In conversation last week, I had assigned students decades to research for the next topic: the 20th Century. Did anyone do the research? Most of them did not. The kids who DID do the research did not want to speak about it, only read from their notes. Very frustrating.

Received a note in my mailbox today that I had something waiting for me at the post office. I got my first Christmas package today. From Wito. I don't think the postal service here has any idea that the Cold War is over! The box had been opened and EVERYTHING inside the box had also been opened. I picked up the first package and The X-Files movie slid out (the movie, the script, a film cell, a book on the making of the film--a really, really cool present). At first I was thrilled! Then I was slightly annoyed that my surprise had been ruined. I got over it quickly. I don't know if this is going to happen to everything, but from now on I need to be careful.

15 December 1999
This morning, in 4.D, we were going to sing Christmas carols. We started to, but I noticed that when we were not singing, they were all looking into their notebooks. I asked what was up, and they told me that they had three exams today, in German, Physics, and Economics. So I told them to study. They did. And you could hear a pin drop in the room except when they were asking each other questions. I think they really needed the time. They are seniors, and while Christmas carols would have been fun, they needed this more. In both sections of 3.C, we reviewed the tests and sang Christmas carols. I had to explain most of the words from "Deck the Halls," so it was a good activity. Of course, like most kids, they laughed at "don we now our gay apparel" (had to explain almost every word in that line). Conversation class was a lot of fun--Wednesday classes always are! I had them get into pairs and identify the most important person, event, and invention of the 20th century and explain why they made that choice.

Went to start the car yesterday and it would not start. Great, I thought. But Dana's husband, Valent, took the car in for service today. Apparently it was the spark plugs. He had a friend of his help him tow the car to the garage to have it worked on. He gave the mechanic an extra 100 crowns for adult beverages after work, and because of this I got the car back the same day. Absolutely fantastic! He is just like Dana (and everyone else in that marvelous family)-he would do anything for you. Everyone I have met this year, especially Barbora, Sona, and Dana, would go out of his or her way to help you.

Went to the Christmas concert tonight (Vianocne Koncerty). It was UTTERLY FANTASTIC!!!!! The first piece was by Wagner (which was just a little odd to hear). The second piece was Samuel Barber's Adagio for Strings, which was phenomenal. I had no idea it was played after the deaths of Roosevelt and Kennedy, but I did know that it was the music used in the film Platoon (one of my favorites, along with Apocalypse Now) when Barnes shoots Ellias in the field. It was stunningly performed and heartbreaking to hear. The last "classical" piece was by Arcangello Corelli. Then came the fun part! The Zilina Music Conservatory Big Band came out and performed seventeen pieces, ranging from Gershwin, Miller, and Lennon to traditional Slovak carols in a big band style. It was great! It is so odd to hear people clap here--everyone claps in unison as a sign of appreciation. It is very rhythmic and forceful, quite unlike how we clap in the US. The faster one claps, the more one wants the conductor/artist to return for an encore. No standing ovations, just over whelming clapping in unison. A wonderful evening.

16 December 1999
4.D read their round robin stories today. They were quite funny. 3.D took their second test today. They were quiet as church mice and did very well. In both sections of 2.D we sang Christmas carols: "Deck the Halls," "Jingle Bells," and "The Twelve Days of Christmas." They were quite proud of themselves for getting through that one! In conversation, we started a new topic: The 20th Century and its Revolutionary Changes. Quite the topic, I think. I had the kids get into groups and decide who they think is the most important person, event, and invention of the 20th century and why. They had to present their decisions to the class. Einstein and the computer won overwhelmingly. As for the rest of the day, had Slovak lesson this afternoon, and spent another "boring" evening reading and watching BBC World. I kind of like not having a tv this year (or at least nothing on tv that I can really watch). One can only watch so many videos on the German fake MTV and watch BBC News so many times. Have gotten lot or reading done this year, especially D.H. Lawrence. And had some ripe bananas around, so I baked banana bread. Got a recipe off of internet, but it is in ounces and cups, none of which measuring instruments I have here, so if a cup is approximately a coffee mug, a teaspoon is half of a soup spoon, etc. It came out OK, a little crusty around the edges, but OK.

17 December 1999
OK, I am a pushover for 3.A. I admit it now. Three students showed up last week, so I vowed that I was going to give a test to them, and not excuse the kids who were absent. So of course, I made up the test, the kids kind of freaked out (while they were eating the banana bread I baked last night-- I know, mixed messages, mixed messages). So they started to take the test in earnest, but were really having a hard time of it, as we had not reviewed the material (because they were ABSENT the week before!!). So I collected the tests, we made a ritual of throwing them in the wastebasket, and spent the rest of the class singing Christmas carols. Again I had to explain almost every word of "Deck the Halls." But it is a good vocabulary exercise, and later that day I heard other kids who I don't even teach humming the tune, so my students must have talked about it!! That was rather cool.

Had a Christmas party tonight. It was also a going away party for Josh, who is returning to the US to go to graduate school. It was a blast! Sona and Dana brought over sandwiches, Barbora brought over snacks, Kamila brought some wine, I made stuffed mushrooms and mulled wine. The girls from the English Department came over, along with Josh, and later Valent, Dana's husband came over. Barbora and her husband made a t-shirt for Josh--I scanned the school picture of our department, they printed it out on this special paper that allows you to iron the picture onto a t-shirt. So we all signed the shirt and gave it to Josh. We told stories, told jokes, laughed a lot, and had a great time. My mulled wine was a hit, so I will bring the recipe to school. I really feel so comfortable here, and love the hospitality that everyone is showing me. I got just a skosh (huge understatement there) homesick, thinking about the wonderful time that my family is going to have at Maureen and Marty's this Christmas. But I'll be there next Christmas. I can't believe it is the middle of December already. It seems like I just got here.


Valent, Dana, Viera, Kamila, Josh, Sona, and Barbora


Queen Barbora and me!!!

18 December 1999
It was snow storming this morning, so I took the train to Bratislava (about two hours) to go shopping at the Christmas market in the old part of town. It was huge and busy and there were many, many lovely things that I could have bought. I bought myself a creche made from corn husks and cloth--very traditional and beautiful. Complete with wise men and animals and shepherds and angels. I can't wait to put it in my house next Christmas. I also got presents for Barbora, Sona and Dana. Walked around, did some window shopping, took myself out to lunch, and took the train home. Bought the European edition of Time and read it on the train. The main story of the issue was on the Columbine videotapes. This (youth violence) is a topic that is becoming increasingly interesting to me, especially after the murder earlier this year on Hilton Head, involving one of my students and one of my favorite students being expelled for calling in a bomb threat. So it was a rather somber ride home, fueled by the darkness and snowstorm.

19 December 1999
Spent the day at home doing research on Internet for my New Year's trip to Italy. I am getting really, really excited. I am going to spend Christmas with Barbora and her family, and then am off to Rome for New Year's. I will also stay for a couple of days in Florence and one day in Verona. I cannot believe this is really happening!!!! Dana, who is the most organized and well-informed person on the planet, arranged the trip for me. She has been so nice to go out of her way to arrange things for me this year. I am taking a bus from Bratislava to Rome, and then will take a train from Rome to Florence, then to Verona, and will catch a bus back to Bratislava from Verona. The round trip bus fare is less than $100. A train would have been about $400. So I will just take a sleeping pill and sleep for the whole trip!! I know, drugs are bad, except when you are travelling!!!!

20 December 1999
4.C took their test today. It seems we are a little behind, as we have been to the computer lab (I can't go with my other classes, as there is not an open time), and we were a little sidetracked with the Stuzkova video. They did really well on it, but had just a little difficulty with vocabulary. Of course, when I asked if they studied, they said no. At least they were honest. In conversation, we watched the video on the most important people of the 20th century. It is actually a pretty cool video, and the activities that are suggested along with it make for some interesting conversation. Well, at least interesting to me!!!! Sometimes I get the feeling that the members of this class are just ghosts participating as little as possible. The kids are really, really nice, but the energy level is consistently low.

Went to another Christmas concert tonight--a good relief from the day's frustration (frustration is not the right word--I just get mildly disappointed/annoyed with myself that I can't make conversation more interesting to this class). Eben Ezer, a Slovak a capella choir that sings sacred music through the ages, from Gregorian chants to gospel spirituals. They were quite good.

21 December 1999
In 3.D, I had the girls write letters to Judy Munchmeyer's class back at Hilton Head. They worked really diligently, after initial reluctance. The letters were very good, informative, and pleasant. In conversation, we identified the most important person/event/invention of the 20th century. This class was a little more interesting, and student could articulate really good reasons for their choices.

Spent the evening washing clothes and starting to pack for the trip!!!! OK, I must admit that I am getting pretty excited now.

22 December 1999
Today there were no classes, as students went to the movies before the Christmas holiday. Instead, we had a "faculty meeting" and then adjourned to one of the classrooms for the staff Christmas party. And what a party it was!!! There was lunch, wine at every table/desk, and when that bottle was finished, another one miraculously appeared. There was much conversation and laughter. We were there for about three hours, although some staff stayed very late and then moved the party to Nosorozec (the rhinocerous), the local pub. Everyone participated, from the maintenance man (who lives in a suite of rooms near the gym), to the doorkeeper (she distributes keys for the various classrooms in an external building), to the cleaning ladies (who "yelled" at me for not putting the chairs up on the desks at the end of the day--I have the last classes in my building every day--they yelled nicely, but let me know I needed to do that [or have the kids do it], and now we are on very amicable terms!!!) and the entire staff. A few retired colleagues also attended.


at the Christmas lunch: Ivana, Sona, Dana,
Viera, Barbora, Kamila, and me


one of the fabulous tables at the Christmas party,
made even more fabulous with the addition of wine!


the infamous carp!

Before the party, though, the ladies of the English Department and I got together and they presented me with a gift. It is a BEAUTIFUL silver necklace--small, simple, and perfectly elegant. It is a silver chain with silver beads on it, and it is absolutely perfect. They said very kind words to me as they gave it to me, and it makes me feel so special to be here and to be appreciated by them. I hope they know that their appreciation for me is returned toward them a thousand-fold. They are so supportive and nice and always willing to help or just talk, and they include me in everything. I cannot believe how lucky I was to get this school and this staff.

After the party, Dana, Sona, Barbora, and I went to the town on a mission--to find CARP!! Yes, one of the Christmas traditions here in Slovakia is to buy a live carp before Christmas, keep it in your bathtub until Christmas dinner (which Slovaks have on Christmas Eve), at which time you take it out of the tub, make it no longer alive, and cook it. In the market (which is rather sparse in winter), there are humongous tubs holding live carp. So I was to be escorted this afternoon to peer into the carp bin and have my picture taken with one of the hapless fellows. Sona told the fishmonger that I needed a picture of his fish for an American magazine, and he happily assisted me in getting one of them in a net, while Sona snapped our picture. She told me later that some market people managed to squeeze themselves into the picture!!!

Barbora, her husband, and I leave for Orava tomorrow for Christmas, so tonight was spent packing for Christmas and for Italy. I also threw myself a little Christmas party tonight. I have had to go to the post office almost every day this week--everyone from home has been so great about sending me packages. I had a bottle of champagne that someone had given me as a housewarming gift, so I popped that, sat myself by the Christmas tree, and opened the presents that I have received. They were fantastic!!! Wito sent me the soundtrack to Chicago, which we saw in Jacksonville before I left, The X-Files video box set, AND the elf who screams, "A DENTIST!" Rudolph the Red- Nosed Reindeer. MB sent a book/CD set of important radio broadcasts of the 20th century, a Sammy Sosa watch and doll (I LOVE HIM!!!), and Herbie, the elf who wants to be a dentist!! Wito and MB did not know that they were both sending them to me (OK, explanation: Wito and I have a routine that we do ad nauseum with Herbie and his boss). My cousin Sandy sent a book and wonderfully warm socks, Aunt Flo and Lorraine a fantastic shirt, sweater, and travel bag, and my parents an absolutely beautiful velvet black skirt, shirt, sweater, hat (which is the absolute coolest hat on the planet and desperately needed), and tree ornament. I feel like the most loved person in Slovakia. I also feel like the loneliest person in Slovakia tonight.

STUZKOVA HOME CHRISTMAS IN ORAVA
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