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The Odyssey of a Seahawk:
From Hilton Head, South Carolina, to Zilina, Slovakia,
with the Fulbright
Teacher Exchange Program
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Orava in winter
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Christmas
in Orava
walking in a
winter wonderland. . .
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23 December 1999
Drove to Dolny Kubin in Orava (about one hour), a mountainous
region near the Polish border. It was a lovely drive, and we
arrived in one piece. Barbora's parents are really nice, and I
felt instantly at home. We had dinner, which was fantastic, had
to have the obligatory toast (or five!) with Barbora's father
(with my new favorite adult beverage--Pliska), we went for a
walk, and then came home. The town is quite beautiful--nestled on
a river, hills all around it, very peaceful and quiet. One of the
nicest features is a covered wooden bridge that connects the
housing area with the town center--quite nice, especially with
the snow and freezing cold weather.
24 December 1999
Today is Christmas (tomorrow is just a holiday--this is the
important night!). Barbora's mother was up with the roosters
(does that automatically happen to mothers?) starting the
preparations for the evening meal. Barbora and I went ice
skating. I had only been once when I was about nine, and must
admit I was a little nervous. The rink was not that crowded, and
we were quite the oddity at the rink, as we were speaking English
(that always happens!). It was surprisingly NOT
nerve-wracking. I really liked it. My ankles hurt after a while,
though, as I think the skates were too loose (I was wearing her
husband's skates, as I have boats for feet). We went back to her
parents' house, made mulled wine, and got ready for dinner. I
don't know if Barbora and her family do dinner like this every
year, or if the traditions were followed to the letter for my
sake. Apparently different regions of Slovakia have different
customs, and these are the customs of the Orava region (which was
traditionally a poor region). Regardless, it was unbelievably
interesting and extraordinary. I don't know if I can do this
justice in the following:
- We had to put money under the tablecloth (but
could not empty our wallet--can not be
greedy, but this ensures that you will have
enough money in the next year), when Barbora was
younger, she shook the tablecloth out the next
day, but forgot to remove the money--she
subsequently spent some time on a scavenger hunt
downstairs;
- the table has to be set completely--no one is
allowed to get up during the meal (I don't know
the reason for this);
- we had to have a toast with Pliska (very
important);
- first course: oplatka, like huge rolled
up communion wafers, with honey and walnuts
(symbolizing the Mass);
- then we each had to take a clove of fresh, raw
garlic to ensure that we will be healthy in the
next year;
- next came opekance, baked balls of dough
mixed with water, honey, and poppy seeds (this
protects you against lice in the new year!!!!
- we then had to throw fresh peas into the four
corners of the room to protect the house against
witches in the next year;
- then we passed around the dish of prunes, which
also protects you from lice and ensures health
for the next year;
- after this traditional ceremony, we had
sauerkraut soup with bread--there are many kinds,
but Barbora's mother makes it with cream and
chicken--it was absolutely fantastic;
- next you have to indulge in fried fish and potato
salad--which again, was delicious like everything
else;
- ham and klobasa (kielbasa [sausage])--homemade,
mind you--is next, according to Barbora's father,
one has to sample each kind of meat for the new
year;
- cleaning up: not really allowed--all the
perishables had to be put away, but
non-perishables have to stay on the table
overnight (to ensure that the table will always
be full in the next year;
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the amazing dinner table
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present time!
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then it came time for more pliska and the opening of
presents!!!!! Barbora and her parents gave me a beautiful
ceramic pot and cup set--in Slovak blue with
fantastic painting. Afterwards we went for a walk through
town. It was a really relaxing evening, and although I
was quite homesick, thinking of everyone having dinner
and going to midnight Mass in Atlanta, it ended up to be
not a bad evening. 25 December 1999
Today was spent in absolute, wonderful nothingness! We
ate leftovers (no cooking allowed on the day after
Christmas!) and ate more and watched Czech/Slovak fairy
tales on television. One in particular was filmed at
Orava castle, not that far from Barbora's parents' house.
I understood just a little bit, but it was interesting
nonetheless.
26 December 1999
We went for a drive in the afternoon--to a
mountain/ski area, which was incredibly beautiful. There
is so much snow on the ground and it is so cold--I
definitely have to live somewhere where it is cold, I
have decided. It is amazing. Getting slightly (!) excited
about Italy.
27 December 1999
Snowing again. Thick, huge flakes. The drive
back to Zilina was slow and arduous--through the
mountains on snow/ice covered roads--a very long drive.
Spent the rest of the day and the night packing and
making plans for the New Year's holiday.
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