How to lower off a sport route in safety |
|  1. Pull a section of rope through the anchor ring (or rusted screwgate if you climb at Malham). 2. Tie a figure 8 loop in this bite.
| 3. Attach screwgate carabiner to your harness belay loop.
| 4. Attach the fig.8 to the carabiner.
| 5. Untie the original knot attached to your harness.
| | You can now be lowered off. NB at no time have you 'left' the system. |
Don't substitute the screwgate for an extender
Don't clip the rope bite into a harness gear loop.
Waddya wanna do? Kill yourself?
Save that for the trad ...
Info and picture from Petzl. They have many more good tips: look 'em up.
And if they'd like to sponser me, I am available. Reasonable price.
