Blue Jerkin 

The jerkin in Venetian women's dress is an interesting addition to her household wardrobe.  Most commonly seen in a more domestic setting rather than dressing for outside of the villa or palazzo. 

As Venetian gowns have a rather wide neckline at both the front and the back, the addition of the jerkin solves the issue of any chills that might be felt.  

I have a nice little wardrobe full of Venetian gowns, so my aim was to take these existing garments to a different level.  Also I wanted to explore more fully the world of Venetian women in their every day lives.  The jerkin for the most part appears to be for less formal occasions at home.

I have to say that for a less formal item of dress this simple jerkin really put the base dress on a different level.  It felt even more sumptuous than wearing the Blue Court Gown with its ruffs.  

La Malcontenta fresco.  1549 – 63 The frescos are attributed to Giovanni Battista Zelotti and Battista Franco. Villa Foscari, better know as La Malcontenta,near the coastal lagoon of Venice.	20 September 2006. Me in my new jerkin.	Self-Portrait  Marietta Robusti (La Tintoretta) 1580

In Venetian art when you see a woman wearing a loose gown or a jerkin, there is often an additional partlet attached to this garment.  it is additional to the partlet worn on the dress. 

This detailed enlargement of the “Lady with a Squirrel” portrait shows a seperate patrlet under the jerkin.  Inside the right side of the front opening the edge of the partlet can be seen unpinned.

Accessories.

I decided that instead of the usual pearl jewellery I would use my beautiful collection of amber and red glass jewellery.  As Venice had such a thriving industry of glass making that included beads, why not a some to my wardrobe.  All the glass beads used are of a style that could reasonable be expected to be found in Venice at the time.

Jewels included 

• Laurel medallion on a gold chain. Given to my by one of my apprentices, Lady Antonia Della Scalla

• Glass and gold bead necklace.

• Glass and gold bead earrings.

• Large broach set with a large tigers eye cabochon, and large drop pearl suspended from the bottom point. Other small gems and pearls are set around the main stone.

• Girdle of predominantly amber glass and gold beads.  Some red glass beads for accent.

 Because of the jerkin the girdle is worn on the outside of this instead of being hidden under it.

Hair.

Many times in the past I have attempted to achieve the gravity defying hairstyles seen on Venetian women without much success.  I normally make do with my hair in braids and the customary mass of pearls through my hair.  I was determined that this time I was going to make it happen.  My apprentice, Lady Agnita Loredan de Rovigo and I had been discussing for some time how to achieve these styles. After seeing her success I was determined to make it work this time.

For a comprehensive explanation of the hair styling click here. 

Both the centre front and the centre back have the classic Venetian V shaping. This meant lost of boning in both these areas.

Will I do this again?  Yes.

Will I change anything? Yes.  Unfortunately the shoulders are not wide enough.  The arm holes should be at the point of the shoulder, if not a little beyond that.  The shoulders on this jerkin sit about 3 cm short.

The inspiration for the Jerkin can be found here, and the diary can be found here.

When completed I intend to were this one with my brown and blue gown, thus emphasising the blue in it.

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All intellectual content, composition, layout, designs and photographs, unless otherwise noted are copyright 2007 to Deborah Lane ©, or, copyright 2003 to Deborah Murray © also known as Mistress Oonagh O'Neill ©. All Original renaissance art works and artefacts are not copyright to me, and are shown for educational use only .  If you see something you'd really like to use, please contact me!