Chapter7.

Winemakers are responsible for many different activities, but one of his or her most important duties is to make certain the winery is maintained in a clean, sanitary condition. Dirty cellar conditions can result in wines with strange off-odors and off-flavors. Wine acts like a sponge, and it absorbs all kinds of odors. Many homemade wines are afflicted with off-odors and off-flavors, and usually these problems can be attributed to a lack of cleanliness or to poor storage conditions. Unless strict sanitary conditions are maintained in the storage area, wine quality is always at risk.

Although winery sanitation is very important, many beginning winemakers do not understand the methods and materials needed to establish and maintain clean, sanitary winemaking conditions.

The basic principles of sanitation and the ways these principles are applied in the wine industry can be found in a Wine Institute publication by Davison (1963) titled "Sanitation Guide for Wineries." This document identifies the following five steps as particularly important for maintaining basic winery sanitation.

(2) Inspect the winery premises, the equipment and the cooperage at least once each month and do this inspection on a regularly scheduled basis.

(3) Keep all winery equipment clean and in good working condition. Equipment should be arranged in an orderly way and the work areas kept free of clutter.

(4) Use plenty of clean water, sterilizing materials and cleaning agents. The entire winery should be cleaned on a regularly scheduled basis.

(5) Get rid of harmful bacteria, yeast, mold, insects and rodents. Then take any measures necessary to prevent a recurrence of these pests.

Although these rules may seem obvious, they should not be taken for granted, and every home winemaker should carefully consider just how these five rules apply to his or her particular winemaking situation.

"Wash equipment just before it is used; then wash everything again when the job is finished" is another simple but very effective winery sanitation rule. Most winery residues can be easily rinsed away when wet, but grape residues are very difficult to remove after they become dry. Cleaning dried grape muck out of a fifty-foot length of transfer hose is a difficult and frustrating task.

The "clean before and clean after" rule seems to imply twice as much work. However, this is not so, and the rule will save a tremendous amount of time and labor if it is conscientiously applied. Practically all large wineries practice and rigidly enforce this rule. This rule is particularly important for small producers because they often do not have high pressure washers or steam cleaning equipment.

Pomace should be removed from the winery promptly, and all the pomace should be disposed of in a suitable way. Pomace should never be allowed to accumulate near active fermentations. Even sweet pomace acetifies quickly in hot weather and starts turning into vinegar. Then the pile of pomace attracts fruit-flies, and the flies carry acetic acid bacteria from the pomace pile into the fermentations.

Putting pomace back into the vineyard is the preferred method of disposal. When pomace is spread in a thin layer, it drys quickly and becomes high quality compost material. Unfortunately, most home winemakers do not have access to vineyards, so they must find other ways to dispose of their pomace. A method that works well in some urban areas is to place 20 to 30 pounds of pomace in large plastic trash bags. Then the bags are placed at the curb on trash collection day. Some wineries rent an extra trash "dumpster" for several weeks each crush season, and this is a very convenient and effective way of disposing of pomace for small producers. Arrangements must be made to have the dumpster emptied promptly, or the pomace will acetify and attract fruit flies.

Many proprietary cleaning agents have been developed specifically for use in the wine and food industries, and these materials have properties that make them particularly suitable for the intended job. However, sources of proprietary cleaning materials can be difficult to find. Many cleaning materials are supplied by the manufacturer in 50 pound bags or in large drums, and such large quantities are not suitable for small producers. Fortunately, several common household cleaning materials give reasonable performance in the small winery, and these materials are readily available in small quantities at the corner market.

Sanitation procedures used in the winery cannot be effective unless the proper material is used, and the material must be used in the correct concentration and for a minimum amount of time. In addition, some sanitation materials must be applied at elevated temperatures. Often, application time and application temperature function together. Some typical examples are shown in the Table below.

Material	Concentration (mg/liter)	Minimum Temperature (F)	Time (Minutes)
Hypochlorite	50	75	1
Iodine	15	75	1
Citric Acid	250	75	1
Hot Water	-	170	15
Steam	-	200	5
Hot Air	-	180-	20

Detergents wet surfaces readily, soften the water, emulsify fats, de-flocculate particulate material, and good detergents have some sterilizing action. Most important for winery use, a detergent must be easy to rinse away completely. Detergents having all these desirable characteristics are difficult to find, so many home winemakers rely on a liquid dish washing detergent. Most dish washing detergents do a good job in hot water, but their performance in cold water is sometimes lacking.

Generally, cleaning products with artificial odors should be avoided, and highly perfumed liquid detergents are particularly bad. Strong perfumes can be difficult to rinse away from any surface, and microscopically porous materials like polyethylene can retain the scent for a very long time. Unscented detergents are available, but these products may be difficult to find at the local market.

Sodium phosphate is an excellent water softener, and it is one of the better winery cleaning materials. Sodium phosphate is the principal ingredient of many automatic dishwasher powders, and in this form, sodium phosphate is inexpensive and readily available. Phosphate-based detergents are often used for soaking off labels and cleaning used wine bottles.

Chlorinated tri sodium phosphate (CTSP) is the work horse cleaning agent in both commercial and home wineries. The best defense against contamination in small wineries is chlorinated TSP, a stiff brush, hot water and lots of elbow grease. CTSP is readily available, and it lifts dirt well. The chlorine is a powerful sterilizer, and in this form, chlorine is easier to rinse away. Solutions of CTSP feel soapy or slippery when mixed at a useful strength, and one to four tablespoons of CTSP in a gallon of hot water produces a useful concentration. TSP can be hard on hands, and rubber gloves should be worn when strong solutions are used. Some automatic dishwasher powders contain significant amounts of chlorinated tri sodium phosphate.

Clorox (sodium hypochlorite) is an inexpensive and readily available source of chlorine. Sodium hypochlorite is the active ingredient in Clorox. This material is a powerful oxidizer, and it is one of the most potent disinfectants readily available to home winemakers. Unfortunately, Clorox does not rinse away easily in cold water, and Clorox is particularly difficult to remove from porous materials. Many home winemaking books condemn this material because Clorox is so potent and so difficult to rinse completely. Even so, commercial wineries use large quantities of sodium hypochlorite because it is such an efficient sanitizer.

The following procedure is recommended when Clorox is used to sterilize wine containers. First, the surfaces of the tank are scrubbed with a Clorox solution. Then the surfaces are rinsed two or three times with clean water. Next, the surfaces are rinsed with a solution consisting of one tablespoon of sulfite crystals in a gallon of water. Sulfur dioxide and chlorine combine quickly, and the residue washes away easily. Finally, the tank surfaces are rinsed again with clean water to remove any sulfur dioxide residue.

Unscented Clorox can be purchased at any super market. It is all the same material, so buy the least expensive brand. All strong cleaning products must be used with caution, and full strength Clorox must be handled with special care. Under some conditions, Clorox can produce poisonous chlorine gas. Do not breathe Clorox fumes, and do not get Clorox on clothing.

After winemaking equipment has been scrubbed down, all of the cleaning material must be removed from surfaces that can contact wine. If doubt exists, the surfaces should be rinsed again completely. All of the cleaning agents listed above will do a better job of cleaning when they are used with hot water, and these materials also rinse away more easily when hot water is used.

A good adjustable nozzle attached to a garden hose is the primary piece of cleaning equipment in most small wineries. The nozzle should provide several spray patterns including a strong, high velocity stream, and the nozzle should not leak. The hose and nozzle will be dropped from time to time, so the nozzle should be of rugged construction. Hang the hose, with the nozzle attached, in a convenient spot in the crush area. Many steps will be saved.

Special, long-handled brushes are made for washing automobile hub caps, and these brushes are very convenient for scrubbing small tanks, containers and most winemaking equipment. These long-handled brushes can be purchased in the automotive departments of large stores. They are inexpensive, and a couple of these brushes are very handy for all kinds of cleaning jobs in any small winery.

Home winemakers use an assortment of bottle brushes for cleaning stubborn residues from the inside surfaces of used wine bottles, jugs and carboys. These brushes have long twisted wire handles, and they are manufactured in many sizes.

"Jet" carboy washers are a great aid when washing old wine bottles. This little brass gadget attaches to a water faucet or a garden hose and delivers a powerful jet of water to the inside surfaces of any bottle or jug. The water starts flowing when a bottle is placed in position and automatically turns the water off when the bottle is removed. Often, little scrubbing with a bottle brush is necessary if dirty bottles are soaked for two or three days and then power rinsed with a jet carboy washer.

Proper winery sanitation includes cleaning and sanitizing any surfaces that can contact wine. All winemaking equipment, including the crusher and the press, should be scrubbed with a CTSP solution. After scrubbing, the equipment must be carefully rinsed with lots of clean water. Then the equipment should be washed again with plain water immediately after use before any residue has time to dry. After the second washing, the equipment should be drained carefully. Then when the equipment is completely dry, it can be safely stored away. Novice winemakers should try to develop a habit of washing winery equipment before and immediately after each use.

Hoses and tubing should be cleaned much the same as other pieces of winemaking equipment. However, scrubbing the inside surfaces is practically impossible, so hoses and tubing require special care. A strong CTSP solution removes soil efficiently when used promptly, but the tubing should be rinsed several times with clean water to make sure no CTSP remains on the inside surfaces. Mold starts to grow in a short time if water is allowed to stand in a hose. Wineries hang their hoses with both ends down so any water can drain completely. Special hose racks for this purpose are constructed from wood, plastic or metal. Home winemakers often make hose racks from scrap wood or from several nails appropriately placed. Hanging hoses from a single nail will cause permanent kinks. If a length of hose or tubing becomes heavily stained or contaminated with mold, try a full strength Clorox treatment.

The "clean before and clean after" rule also applies to carboys and tanks. Two types of tank residues are often encountered, and both types are difficult to remove, even when the tank is cleaned promptly. An ugly brown deposit often forms near the top of small fermenters, and this material can be quite difficult to remove. A good stiff brush and chlorinated tri sodium phosphate are recommended for this job. Sometimes this type of residue occurs right at the shoulder of a glass or plastic carboy, and it is very difficult to reach. Here, the handle of a large bottle brush should be bent, and extra effort should be applied.

A second type of cleaning problem arises when a carboy or tank has been in use for several years, and the inside surface has become coated with a heavy tartrate deposit. The tartrate causes no harm if the coating is not excessively thick, and if it does not contain a large quantity of trapped lees. In fact, a moderate tartrate coating will accelerate the cold stabilization of any new wine stored in the container.

However, after several years the tartrate coating becomes thick, rough and contaminated with trapped lees. Now, the tartrate coating must be removed. Heavy tartrate deposits are difficult to remove with cold water, but they can be removed quickly with a solution made of a half cup of sodium carbonate in a gallon of hot water and a stiff bristled brush. Thin deposits of tartrate in small tanks or carboys can be removed easily by filling the container with plain water for twenty-four hours.

Cleaning and sterilizing old wine bottles is not fun. Nevertheless, the high cost of new glass (about $6.00 a case) compels many home winemakers to rely on recycled wine bottles. The inside surfaces of dirty wine bottles are an ideal environment for a variety of molds, yeasts and bacteria, and large colonies are often seen growing on the dried residue. Dirty, used, bottles are always a potential source of contamination, so dirty bottles should not be stored in the winemaking area. A safer procedure is to clean the bottles as they are collected. Then the clean bottles should be stored points down in clean cardboard cartons.

Used bottles are difficult to clean properly. The usual procedure is to soak the dirty bottles in water for a few days. Soaking loosens the dried wine residue and the inevitable mold colonies. Some winemakers add a half-cup of TSP to the water to speed up the soaking process. After soaking, the bottles can be scrubbed with a bottle brush using hot water and a strong phosphate-based detergent. A cup of automatic dishwasher powder in two gallons of hot water makes a good bottle cleaning solution. After the bottles have been thoroughly washed, they should be carefully rinsed, drained and dried. A jet carboy washer will save time and much hot water when many bottles are being washed. Washed bottles will remain sanitary for some time if they are placed upside down in clean cardboard cases and stored in a dry environment.

Used, empty barrels are difficult to maintain. The first time a new barrel is filled with wine, more than three gallons of wine soaks into the wood surfaces. Later, when a barrel is stored empty, the wine soaked into the wood quickly acetifies. The wine in the wood turns to vinegar, and the barrel becomes contaminated with vinegar bacteria. Some home winemaking books recommend cleaning barrels contaminated with vinegar bacteria with soda ash. However, sterilizing contaminated barrels is practically impossible. Experienced winemakers use their noses, and they discard any barrels smelling of vinegar.

Empty barrels can be safely stored for several weeks if they are gassed with sulfur dioxide and kept tightly sealed. Home winemakers and small commercial wineries burn sulfur wicks in their barrels. Large wineries purchase sulfur dioxide gas in high pressure cylinders. Barrels gassed with sulfur dioxide should be washed with clean water before they are filled. Winemakers face another serious problem when empty barrels are stored for long times. After several weeks, the wood in an empty barrel becomes dry, and the staves start to shrink. As the wood shrinks, the hoops become loose, and the barrel loses its shape. In hot, dry climates, barrels often fall to pieces in a few months. At best, empty barrels leak badly when first filled, and several days of soaking are often required before these barrels can be filled with wine.

Barrels can be maintained for extended periods if they are stored wet. First, the barrel is washed several times with clean, cold water. Then the barrel is half filled with clean water, and a cup of sulfite powder and a cup of citric acid are added. Then the barrel is completely filled with water and bunged tight. The sulfite/acid solution will keep the barrel in good condition for some time, but after several months, the sulfite/acid solution must be replaced.

Unfortunately, barrels stored in this way lose their oak character just as if they were filled with wine. New 60-gallon French oak barrels sell for about $600, and American barrels sell for about $200. Storing expensive barrels filled with water shortens the effective life of the barrels, so this method is only used for older, inert barrels.

Commercial wineries seldom store empty barrels. They keep their expensive oak cooperage full of wine. When aged wine is removed for bottling, the barrels are washed with clean water and immediately refilled with new wine. Some home winemakers also use this method to maintain their barrels in good condition. However, keeping barrels filled with wine requires bottling last year's wine during the busy crush season, so careful planning is needed.

Sanitation is an important part of winemaking, and good housekeeping is necessary in any winery. Many proprietary cleaning agents are available, but most small wineries and home winemakers rely on common cleaning agents like sodium phosphate (automatic dishwasher powder), chlorinated TSP and Clorox.

The "wash everything just before use and again after use" winemaking rule should always be practiced.

Hoses can be maintained easily if they are washed immediately after use. The wet hoses should be hung on a wall with both ends pointing down. Then they can drain and dry out completely.

The bacteria, yeasts and molds that grow so profusely on the bottoms of old dirty wine bottles represent a constant source of contamination. Consequently, dirty, used wine bottles should not be stored in winemaking areas. Dirty bottles should be washed and sterilized and stored away in a sanitary condition.

Maintaining empty oak barrels in good condition is difficult. Small producers burn sulfur wicks in their empty barrels. Large wineries fill their empty barrels with sulfur dioxide gas from high pressure cylinders. Experienced winemakers avoid empty barrels by immediately refilling them with new wine.

THE HOME WINEMAKERS MANUAL

by Lum Eisenman