Olympic Fencing

By Flash Fire

Entrance Requirements: None, though a high PP and PE is preferred.

Skill Cost: 3 years (2 years if Secondary)

Olympic Fencing is not a martial art, but rather a combat based sport, and a loosely based one at that. This form focuses on three separate weapons, and on those weapons only. Unlike most real fighting forms, Fencing deals only with these weapons and gives absolutely no knowledge of any other form of attack. There is no kicking, no punching, no gouging, no body blocking, nothing. Its you, your sword, and your opponent. To the finish.

The first weapon is the foil. The exact origins of this weapon vary based on who you talk to, but most consider the foil the training version of the rapier. It is assumed that, originally, foil fencing was a far more realistic combat training system. Since then, it has slowly transformed itself into its current sport form. One fencer faces another on a horizontal strip. The weapon itself is a long, flexible rod, used theoretically as a stabbing weapon, with a small bell-shaped guard to protect the fingers. Points are scored by striking the torso of the opponent's body with the tip of the weapon. Several small rules prevent natural combat reactions (touching the ground with the hand, protecting the body with the arm, backing your opponent off with a good haymaker, and so on), and so the foil fencer never trains in these types of moves.

The second weapon, the sabre, is more energetic than the first. The sabre is essentially the same weapon as the foil, save that it has a theoretical cutting edge and a large, wrap-around bell gaurd to protect the hand. Its origins lie in the cavalry saber, a curved and edged weapon used by mounted troops to attack other mounted troops. Points with this weapon can be scored by thrusting or cutting against any part of the body above the waist, simulating the cavalryman's attempts to strike any part of the body that wasn't protected by the horse's flanks.

The third weapon is called the Epee. This is most likely the descendant of the training version of the small sword. Like the foil, it is long and a stabbing-only weapon. However, the weapon is heavier, stiffer, has a larger bell guard, and points can be scored against any part of the body. This weapon is the closest to real swordfighting, but still works on a horizontal strip, preventing sideways movement, and keeps many of the same rules as Foil Fencing.

A large number of fencers think that their training in foil, sabre, and epee will give them the ability to use a real sword. This is most certainly not true. Every weapon has its own handling characteristics and none of them match the speed and dexterity of Olympic Fencing weapons, even the ones they are based on. So, those who train with a Foil will be expecting a foil's speed and lightness of touch and will be rudely surprised by a rapier's weight and force. On the other hand, many of fencing's moves are vaguely similar to soft-style self-defense forms. A fencer will be able to figure out, especially if they take a self-defense course or two, how to block most attacks with the hands based off of their fencing moves. In the end, a fencer won't stand much of a chance in a stand up fight, but they won't be totally helpless.

Costume: White jacket, actually closer to a loose body suit, that either zippers in the back or along the off weapon side (can also use snaps, but they are rare). Lightly armored mask, a glove on the weapon hand (and the off weapon hand if the character wants to look cool), tennis or special very light shoes, and (sometimes) white knickers.

Stance: Body turned at a 45 degree angle, off weapon hand held back and up for balance, weapon hand held between the character and his opponent.

Character Bonuses:
+1 to ME
+1 to PP
+2 to PE

Combat Skills:

Attacks Per Melee: Five

Escape Moves: None

Basic Defensive Moves: Parry, Automatic Parry, Dodge

Advanced Defenses: Maintain Balance

Hand Attacks: None

Foot Attacks: None

Special Attacks:

Feint (NEW!) The Feint is simply a fake attack. It is used to draw a parry or reaction out of the opponent. The exact method of attack the character fakes varies and can be any type of attack the character possesses.
This is a Combination Move, used in conjunction with another attack. The character chooses what attack to fake and rolls to strike. On a roll of 5 (or equal to the opponent's AR) or greater, the false attack succeeds. The opponent can (and should) attempt to defend against the false attack. Whether they successfully defend against the fake attack or not, the attacker then moves into the second attack. The character is at +3 to strike with second attack and the defender must use an attack to defend against it (no Automatic Defenses).

Riposte (SPECIAL!) The Riposte is simply an attack made directly after a parry. Essentially a Combination Parry/Attack, the speed of which this is accomplished with a fencing weapon is remarkable, even more so than their more lethal cousin, the rapier. It takes one attack and can be done as many times in a melee round as the character wishes. Parry bonuses are halved, but the character is at +3 to strike on the Riposte and the defender must use an attack to defend against it.
Note: This move is only possible with a fencing weapon, thrusting rapier, small sword, or on a thrust from a cut-and-thrust sword.

Lunge (SPECIAL!) The Lunge is a fast attack used to close distance quickly. The Lunge basically is a standard attack that only works at Long Range and produces a Critical Strike.
Successful or unsuccessful, the Lunge requires a Maintain Balance roll of 5 or better to get back into a position of being able to move. This recovery takes an additional attack, making a total of two required for the move. Attacks and parries can still be made while in the lunge position, but are both at -3 and moving is impossible.

Disengage (SPECIAL!) The disengage is a fast move that brings the weapon underneath the opponent's weapon to attack in the opposite line.
This is a defensive move that can only be done in response to an attack on the blade or weapon arm itself, such as an Arm Hold, Entangle, or direct damaging attack on the weapon. It uses the character's normal bonuses to parry, but grants the character +3 to strike on the following attack due to the speed and ease of the "parry," as well as the opponent being slightly off-balance after the failed attack. This is an Automatic move.
This move can be combined with the Riposte, resulting in an additional +2 to strike.

Fleche (SPECIAL!) The Fleche is a surprise attack that starts out similar to a lunge, but the Fencer follows through with a full speed charge at his opponent. This attack must be made at the beginning of the melee and the attacker loses all ability to attack for the rest of the round, but can still dodge (at half normal bonuses) and parry.
The move closes distance rapidly, and regains that distance just as quickly as the fighter passesby the enemy. A failed Fleche results in the defender having to spend two actions closing the distance to the Fencer.
The end result is a Critical Strike. Should the defender know the Fleche is coming, they can use a Riposte or Combination Parry/Attack against it, to which the Fencer is at -4 to parry.

Binding the Blade (SPECIAL!) Binding the Blade is a defensive move made with the sword that traps the other person's arm or weapon in a position they can't attack from. Specifically, a Bind involves making contact with the opponent's weapon at two points along the blade/attacking surface. One contact is made with the blade, the other contact is made with the guard. This prevents the weapon from moving into a position it can attack from.
In Fencing, this move is mainly used to set up another move or test to see what the opponent's reaction to it is. Typical moves made after a Bind include the Glide, attempts at a disarm, or one could just hold the weapon there to see what the opponent will try to get out of it with. Any action made during the Bind is at +3 and the defender cannot use their bound arm or weapon to defend against it.
Escaping from a bind is fairly simple, just retreat or move your blade back and/or out. This leaves the defender able to parry with their weapon, but the defender loses initative as he sets himself back up into an attacking or defensive posture.
There is a similar move to this one called the Envelopment. It begins with the same two-point-contact as the Bind. Rather than just move the weapon out of line, though, this move brings the weapon around in a circle. Basically, this move is used when you get a little overeager in your Binds or feel like having fun at the expense of your opponent. Supposedly, it can be used to disarm, but no respectable teacher will tell you how (most likely because their teachers never told them how).

Appel (SPECIAL!) The Appel is widely considered the most useless move in Fencing. It consists of rapping one's foot on the ground, usually twice, in an attempt to distract the opposing fencer. It has worked maybe two or three times in the whole history of fencing.
This method is a little more powerful then the real move, but this is an RPG. Both sides roll twenty siders. The Fencer adds his IQ to his roll and the defender adds his ME to his roll. If the Defender loses, he/she is at -3 to defend against the Fencer's next move. If the Defender wins, the Fencer just wasted an attack.

Pressure/Glide (SPECIAL!) The Pressure and the Glide are two extremely similar moves. When using the Pressure, the Fencer simply applies pressure with his weapon against the weakest part of the opponent's blade. The serves little purpose, other than requiring the other combatant to spend an attack getting back into the attack position.
The Glide is roughly the same as the Pressure, except that the Fencer follows the move up by pushing his weapon down the opponent's blade and making an attack out of it. The defender is at -3 to parry this attack, given that the Fencer is already in a position to counter the Parry.
These moves only truly work against primarily thrusting weapons, such as foils, rapiers, and pikes. Use against cut weapons puts the Fencer at -5 to strike and parry with these moves.

Stop Thurst (SPECIAL!) The Stop Thrust is essentially a Combination Strike/Dodge combined with a Called Shot. The Fencer strikes with his/her weapon before the opponent can land an attack he/she has already begun. Naturally, this is very dangerous since the original attack most often lands as well. This is why most successful Stop Thrusts or Stop Attacks take the form of Called Shots to the attacking arm or (preferably) wrist, followed by a very fast retreat or other dodging maneuver.
To work, the Fencer must first be at Long Range. When the attacker makes his move, the Fencer rolls to Strike. The to-hit number is 12, regardless of whether the wrist or arm is targeted (training combined with surprise and the closeness of the target). If some other part of the body is targeted or the Fencer gets less than 12, the move turns into a Simultaneous Attack. Whether successful or not, the Fencer rolls to Dodge at no bonuses (Parry can be used, but it is not automatic and is at -3 and no bonuses). The move takes one attack.

Holds/Locks: None

Weapon Katas: WP: Foil (at fourth level), WP: Sabre, WP: Epee

Modifiers to Attacks: Critical Strike

Skills Included In Training:

Martial Art Powers: Wrist Hardening. Can be traded, one-for-one, for any Basic Skill Program, but not for another Body Hardening Exercise.

If this is your Primary Martial Art Form, then the following other forms can be learned in a shorter time: Isshin-Ryu Karate (4 years), Pao Pat Mei (3 years), Sankukai Karate (6 Years), and Zanji Shinjinken-Ryu (5 years).

Level Advancement Bonuses:
1st: +1 to Maintain Balance, -2 to Disarm, +2 to Parry, Critical Strike
2nd: +2 to Strike, +1 to Binding the Blade
3rd: +1 Attack per Melee
4th: Select one Hand and Foot attack.
5th: +2 to Dodge, +1 to Maintain Balance
6th: Select one move from any Martial Art. Physical Moves only, no Powers or Chi-related attacks.
7th: +2 to Parry, +1 to Strike
8th: +1 Attack per Melee
9th: +2 to Disarm, Critical Strike on Natural 19-20
10th: Select one move from any Martial Art. Physical Moves only, no Powers or Chi-related attacks.
11th: +2 to Strike and Parry
12th: +1 Attack per Melee
13th: +1 to all Special Moves, Select one Martial Art Power from the list below.
14th: +1 to Dodge, +1 to Maintain Balance
15th: +1 Attack per melee, +1 to Parry, Critical Strike on Natural 18-20

Martial Art Power List
Any Body Hardening Excercise (excluding Chi Gung)
Any Special Kata (Weapon Katas can be chosen from any weapon)
One Life, One Shot, One Hit, One Kill (Martial Art Technique)
Iai Jutsu (Martial Art Technique)

Weapon Kata List

WP: Foil: The Foil is a thin, flexible metal needle about three feet long. It has a small circular guard that protects the front of the hand and not much else. By itself, it is only capable of thrusting attacks and does no damage (blunt at the end). One can cut the tip off and sharpen it, but the weapon is still too flexible to gain much penetration (1 SDC damage). A desperate attacker will have an easier time pommel or guard bashing than trying to use the weapon properly (1D4 damage). The Foils uses the bonuses from WP: Small Sword. They cost anywhere from $25 to $80, depending on where and when you buy them. A Foil Fencer provides an interesting take on the traditional duelist, though. Someone with WP: Foil can use a Rapier with it, but is at -3 to strike, parry, and dodge until they have had at least three weeks practice with it. Once they become used to the handling characteristics of the rapier, they are put in the awkward position of being trained to attack solely for the chest and Main Body. This makes them nearly incapable of fighting a duel to First Blood. Effectially, WP: Foil used with a Rapier (or Small Sword) provides a special case of Critical Strike on a Natural Roll of whatever their CS normally is minus six. This naturally makes them very effective killers with a rapier or small sword.

WP: Sabre: Sabres are slightly shorter than foils, though the blade is wider and has a different cross section. The guard is circular, covers a wider area than the foil, and wraps down to the pommel, providing something similar to the traditional cutlass/sabre/rapier guard. By itself, the sabre does no damage, though one could sharpen the edge and do 1D4 damage. Sabres usually cost slightly more than the Foil, ranging from $30 to $80 dollars. Uses WP: Large Sword bonuses

WP: Epee: The Epee is closer in design to the Foil than the Sabre. It, too, is a thrust-only weapon that does no real damage (unless sharpened), but has a heavier guard, a heavier blade, and a triangular cross-section. Uses WP: Large Sword Bonuses. Epees usually cost $50 to $100, depending on when are where they are bought and whether they are electric.

Why Study Olympic Fencing?
Because you've got a one hour empty block between 2:00 and 3:00 on Tuesdays and Thursdays, and have nothing better to do with your time.