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In this issue:
New book
Re: Thune vs Akah slings
Re: Thune vs Akah slings
Re: Tenex EPS
Re: Tenex EPS
Golf and shooting
Re: rifle training program
Re: The eyes have it...
Re: The eyes have it...
Re: The eyes have it...
Re: The eyes have it...
Re: The eyes have it...
The remainder of Re: The eyes have it...
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I've been bringing a British book, "Prone to win" into Canada and it has received good acceptance. It's on smallbore match rifle shooting and is, in my opinion, a good book for the intermediate shooter. Even Masters can be reminded of some points. It covers most items in a very thorough manner. There is one chapter that applies only to their gun laws, but that also is instructive.
It's written by "Brookwood", Chris Fordham, who has written about 10 years of monthly columns for Target sport, previously Target Gun, the shooting sports magazine in Great Britain.
Anyway, it's retail priced at 25 pounds, but the postage adds another 8. If a group gets together, they could probably negotiate a better price, but for sure they'd save on the postage.
To get more information contact [email protected]
Regards
Bill Szulga
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Michael Ray wrote:
>
> [Editor - ...... I bought the UIT I
> for my team. I didn't go with the UIT II because it is so much bigger (I think
> they were meant for apes!), but I think having 2 buckles would be a nice
> feature. You can of course cut off parts so it's more manageable if needed. I
> moved the buckle on the model I which was a pain (I have short arms) and I'd
> guess having 2 buckles would have made that easier..... The 2 buckles may be
> easier to adjust the way you want, but I don't see why they made it so long]
As I understand it, the reason for having two buckles is as you suggested,
so that you can position the buckles so that they don't interfere with
your position, or with the rifle. Having a buckle far enough away from the
arm to allow easy adjustment, for a long-armed shooter, may leave a shorter
-armed shooter with a buckle pressing against their forearm, and vice versa.
I replaced my AHG sling, because in my then-prone position, if my position
decayed / sagged at all, the buckle ended up touching the stock, and I
had to rebuild the position. I only had a couple of millimeters clearance,
and the buckle was too close for comfort.
You can use the second buckle on the Thune sling to position exactly where
the first buckle sits; the seemingly oversize sling length allows enough
space to have either buckle in an extreme position. I've seen people
position the buckles as they need them, and then cut away the unnecessary
material.
Martin
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I use a Thune sling (modified) and find it much better than the standard
configuration which is too lumpy.
As a single point sling it clips to the handstop using an Uncle Mikes
style push button clip. This means the sling can live with the jacket
permanently and is retained in place with a belt loop attachment - a short
length of venetian blind cord keeps the sling exactly in the right
position re rotation.
The modification is as follows - I found that once set to size on the arm
loop that there was no need to adjust - provided you can get your hand and
elbow through the loop when donning the shooting jacket. By disassembling
the sling remove/discard the rear buckle and the short strip of punched
sling then and reassembling placing the front single buckle in the same
orientation now back close to the inside of the bicep. The sling then goes
(starting from the inside of the arm) from the short length looped to hold
the buckle back around the arm (with its roughened surface), to the other
side where it is bolted through from the buckle forming the loop for the
arm, then forward from the outside of the arm, to the inside of the wrist,
over the hand, forward through the sling swivel, back over the hand, back
around the inside the wrist and back to the buckle.
I then lace the sling together at the sling swivel to make the end result
which is a sling that is thin, absolutely no stretch with no lumps or
bumps and works perfectly. Adjustment is easily achieved by the firing
hand while in position if necessary (the lacing must be undone first).
All the extra bits and bobs are great until you work out what you
like/want/need then get rid of them to get back to the minimum functional
item.
Good shooting.
********************************************************************
Kazan Mohrs wrote:
>
> Any one tried the new Ten X yet?
I recently tried some in my long barrel handgun, shooting 10 shot groups
with a 6X scope from sandbags like a rifle at 50 yards. I suspect all group
sizes were increased by the scope parallax, but with only one exception that
I can't explain, the best group in each of 2 days of testing was the black
box Eley Match EPS, a slightly lesser grade of the Tenex, grouping 0.95
inches the first day due to two fliers and the rest in a much smaller group;
and 0.6 inches the second day with no fliers. My visual impression is that
the 0.6 inch group is normal for this ammo and I messed it up by not using
the rear sandbag the first day. This is certainly not any conclusive test,
but my first impression is that it can be very accurate. The noticeably
small EPS groups are the only ones I have seen like this except Lapua Midas
L that I tested a couple of years ago.
The exception was that CCI Standard produced 0.9 inches the first day with
no single fliers either day. I was surprised not to have any low droopers
either day as CCI Standard usually does for me.
10 shot single groups, size in inches, Buckmark Silhouette from sand bags.
Listed in order fired. Usually, 2 conditioning shots with new ammo between
groups. Cleaned only once, at start of Day 1.
Day 1: Front rest only, rear hand supporting grip while resting on table...
0.9 CCI Standard
1.05 Remington Standard, 75 cents/box from DCM, often misfires.
1.2 Old Remington, c.1960 and still more reliable than the new purchase!
1.0 Lapua Midas M - note that Midas L usually does much better in this gun.
0.95 Eley Match EPS
Day 2: Same front rest, added squeezed sandbag rest in rear.
1.0 CCI Standard
1.2 Aguila SE "Super Extra"
1.2 RWS Target Rifle
1.2 Eley Club Xtra
0.6 Eley Match EPS - Excellent 10 shot group for this gun
0.75 Lapua Midas M - also a good group this time.
2.1 Old Remington, c.1960 - serious low droopers
- Benjamin McLeod
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Have not personally touched any off as yet, but I talked to Dan Olley at the
Atlanta WC with Bill Krilling looking on. Bill was impresssed, likes the
shape of the bullet and the shock waveform he anticipates it will create.
Several of the top US shooters have recently been to Eley in UK for testing
and ammo matching. We'll all know more in a few months.
Eley is providing ammo support for the US team, and the groups several
athletes are reporting are impressive.
Scott Engen
USA
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The August 4, 2001 issue of Saturday Night (the weekend magazine included
with the National Post newspaper) has a great cover article on the
psychology of playing golf, "2nd To None -- The war an athlete wages
against the fear of success can be an eternal one: just ask Lori Kane".
Intriguingly, there were sections of it that could have been lifted from a
shooting article. (Maybe that's why they talk about "shooting a round of
golf"...!)
If you can't find a copy of last Saturday's National Post, you can get the
article on-line at http://www.saturdaynight.ca/ (for now at least).
Dan
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Edward,
Sorry for all the noise on the list lately. It usually isn't this lively.
To start tell us more about your situation. How long have you been
shooting? What are typical results for you? You say you train 3 times
a week so what does your current training program consist of?
Michael Ray
The Editor
--- In uit_mailing_list@y..., Edward Nouel <enouel@d...> wrote:
> Good Morning,
> My Name is Edward Nouel From Dominican Republic, I'm Rifle Shooter,
> i need your help in fisical and metal training program for rifle, my
> favorite dicipline is 10M Air Rifle i have a Anshuz Air Compress Rifle, an 2213 Anshuzt for
> prone and 3x40 i need a tips for my training in Air Rifle, now i training 3 times a week,
>
> I Apreciate you help
>
> Edward Nouel
******************************************************************
Chet,
I do not understand this, let alone how to apply it. I have tried
shooting without my glasses but the front sight all but dissapears and
becomes non-round. Group size reflects this change. How, exactly, is
my feeble mind to overcome this?
What is NDME? You use a lot of words that are outside of my normal, and
somewhat limited, vocabulary. This makes most of your disertations
difficult to understand.
BTW, I appear to be left eye dominant but aim with my right eye...
Mike (trying to learn to shoot accurately)
********************************************************************
"M.Hockings" wrote:
>
> Chet, I do not understand this, let alone how to apply it. I have tried
> shooting without my glasses but the front sight all but dissapears and
> becomes non-round. Group size reflects this change. How, exactly, is
> my feeble mind to overcome this?
I may be wrong (and if so, Chet will correct me) but as I understand it,
it goes like this:
If your eyesight is good enough to see a reasonable aiming image (the
foresight, the target) then Chet suggests that glasses aren't necessary
for aiming the rifle.
Fair enough, and quite right for non-astigmatic, and only slightly long
or short-sighted shooters.
But there's more to target shooting than just aiming. For instance, if
you can't see the wind flags well enough to determine wind direction,
you'll need glasses. There's also (as Chet points out) the safety issue.
If your eyes can't focus comfortably on the foresight, you will also
have problems; in other words, the muscles in your eye that shape the
lens will work OK for a while, but these muscles (like any other muscle
in the body) will tire out eventually.
Unfortunately, some of us also have astigmatism........
I've had personal experience of a bad prescription; my shooting glasses
loosened over a period of time and travel, and the circular lens rotated
slightly. Because that eye had an astigmatism correction, my aiming eye
ended up fighting the correction provided by the lens. Not good.
So, about 40 scoring shots into any prone match, I found my eyes became
"tired", in the sense that I found it progressively harder to get any
sight picture. It's best described as being able to look, but not see.
Once the lens was corrected, the problem went away.
> What is NDME? You use a lot of words that are outside of my normal, and
> somewhat limited, vocabulary. This makes most of your disertations
> difficult to understand.
It's Chet's area of enthusiasm. Take driving as an example.
- When you are learning to drive, every act is the result of a conscious
decision. ("I'm about to turn left, so indicate...brake...change down..
...turn the steering wheel")
- When you are a more experienced driver, these acts become almost
automatic; you don't "think" about changing gears, you're more concerned
about "I'd better indicate well before braking, the car behind is a bit
close" or "is that pedestrian going to step across the road".
- Eventually, you'll hit a "flow state". You'll be driving, and suddenly
you'll realise you can't remember covering the last X minutes; it will
feel as if you've been in a trance / dream / etc.....
So it is with target shooting. At some point, you'll hit a flow state,
where you're not "thinking" about shooting, you're just "doing it". And
you'll probably find that's where your best performances will come from
(it certainly has for me).
It's described in Pullum and Hanenkrat's revised book, among others.
Martin
********************************************************************
Hello, You do not understand it because you are working in the conscious
mental level and it just does not work in the conscious mode. My
instructions were for the internal mental level of operation often called
the higher brain levels. This is what I call the non-dominant mental
entity.
The sight alignment is accomplished inside of the higher level of the
cognitive entity. In that it is here that the sight alignments accomplished
then glasses are not required and any other sight problem do not exist. The
physical eye takes thousands of snapshots and these are analysis to
determine if any change has occurred between the last to the next snapshot
in sequence. This mentally happens so fast that you consciously detect them
as a seamless flow of information to the mental entity.
The one important factor is that you must explain to the cognitive entity
what will happen and what to expect from the ongoing activity. The
physical eye only sees a pictorial representation of the object external of
the body. It need only to detect it and determine the size and shape.
Clearness is not required but the cognitive entity must be able to determine
the center of mass of all objects viewed. Fuzziest are allowed. As the
access of the Natural Point of Impact is accomplished with the white halo
around the bull in the front sight, Glasses are not required for this
function. the bull, white halo and perfect alignment is accomplished by the
center of mass concept. It has been said that the bull is not down range
but resides inside of the front sight. And the NDME through the
neuromuscular system is the adjusting factor of the autonomic functions for
receipt of the PBE.
Hope you understand this functioning. It is the way your brain and senses
have been working from birth....!
If you want to understand the mental technique then suggest you purchase a
copy of the book for rifle or pistol as you desire then you will have the
answers.
Chet Skinner, Coach
Entity Sports International
http://www.geocities.com/colosseum/dome/4512/index.html
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Gentlemen,
My understanding of this - As simply as I can put it is this:
Provided you can see the foresight clearly and a fuzzy blob for the target
you can shoot "reasonably" accurately provided the white is even around
the blob and the front sight is clear. The fact the target is fuzzy is
irrelevant because the dead centre of the target is at the dead centre of
the fuzz. What is critical is that the fuzz is at the exact centre of the
front ring.
The tighter you screw down the rear iris the clearer (and darker) the
whole sight picture will be. Remember the old pin hole camera? You may
need to spend more time sighting each shot to allow your pupil time to
open and read the sight picture.
The balance is when we open the rear iris to remove the grey washed out
image but not enough to cause the target to blur.
A tight fitting hat around the rear sight helps a lot as do blanking
pieces around the sight.
From what I have had time to read I agree with Chet in that
psychologically we balk at shooting at a target we cannot see clearly.
Apologies if this is not what he is saying, I have come on the scene a
little late.
I am lucky enough to have excellent eyesight (slightly farsighted if
anything). In fact it is good enough to see that the foresight ring and
the target are "never" perfectly in the same plane of focus particularly
at long range (I shoot Fullbore 300yds - 1000yds). I use a diopter to
assist in placing the foresight in razor sharp focus and accept a slight
blurring of the target particularly at long range. I also note that if the
rear peep is too large and is letting in too much light the front ring
will become oval causing the dreaded elevation effects.
Head distance from the rear peep has dramatic effects on the whole
equation (you need to be as close as possible without getting smacked).
Hope this doesn't bore you all.
Regards from OZ
Best wishes,
Mark
********************************************************************
Two small errors recently:
> physical eye takes thousands of snapshots and these are analysis to
> determine if any change has occurred between the last to the next snapshot
> in sequence. This mentally happens so fast that you consciously detect them
> as a seamless flow of information to the mental entity.
The physical eye does not actually take snapshots at all, as we normally
understand the term. Rather, the retina of the eye processes the image
directly, looking for things like a diagonal line moving in such and such a
manner, and sends this pre-recognized information to the brain for further
processing and decision making. The physical object exists in the real
world, and an understanding of that object exists in the brain, but the
image of the object exists only on the surface of the retina and is not
transmitted as an image anywhere.
I do not know if the retina itself can be trained to assist in recognizing
whatever the person considers important; that would be an interesting
concept for some researcher to investigate. I am sure that, as Coach Chet
says, the subconscious brain can be trained to control the body in response
to what the eye sees.
However I do not agree with Coach Chet on the idea of 98% mental. The mental
process has never held, aimed or fired a gun on its own, that is strictly a
physical process. When the shooter understands the correct physical process,
then he can practice it until the brain is properly trained, and only after
that the subconscious mind can do things correctly. Certainly the correct
mental attitude is important, and might well make the difference between a
96 and a 100 on the target, but that would be 4% mental not 98%. I think any
shooter can achieve at least 90% of his capability without any special
mental training at all. That 90% by itself will not be enough to win most
matches, but it is a lot more than 2%.
> The tighter you screw down the rear iris the clearer (and darker) the
> whole sight picture will be. Remember the old pin hole camera? You may
> need to spend more time sighting each shot to allow your pupil time to
> open and read the sight picture.
> The balance is when we open the rear iris to remove the grey washed out
> image but not enough to cause the target to blur.
> A tight fitting hat around the rear sight helps a lot as do blanking
> pieces around the sight.
The pupil does not need to open more to accept more light. When using a
small rifle iris, the pupil size is always larger than the iris and so the
pupil size no longer matters.
However a similar effect does happen, and the advice given is correct as far
as I know. In response to greater light, the light sensitive chemicals of
the eye get bleached out or used up or regardless of terminology, the retina
becomes less sensitive to light so that it can see clearly at the present
light intensity. Then in dim light, shielded by the small iris and the hat,
the retina continues to produce the needed chemicals and becomes more
sensitive after a while so you can also see well in the dim light.
- Benjamin McLeod
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[Editor - Due to the extreme number of posts that this thread continued to generate, I have elected not to include it here, but direct you to the YahooGroups page below where you can view it at your leisure. It was just too much to try to condense into this version of the list. The entire thread covers messages 273-317. It does degenerate more toward the end, but there is some good info on how the eye works, the need to see the target/wind flags clearly or not, and some attempts by Chet Skinner to more clearly explain some of his terms.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/uit_mailing_list/messages/273
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End of UIT Mailing List #23
Michael Ray - DBA & Systems Engineer
Rose-Hulman Inst. of Tech. Rifle Coach
UIT Shooting Page - http://www.geocities.com/Colosseum/1190/index.htm
