Perhaps you've just adopted your first cabbit, or maybe you already have a cabbit and would like more information to help you understand her better. The Society for the Care And Mechanical Protection of Egrarious Rodents (SCAMPER), a national nonprofit organization, is here to answer your questions and help you and your cabbit feel at home.

Why do they make good house pets? Cabbits:

  • can learn near-perfect litterbox habits
  • are fun to watch
  • have different personalities just as individual people do.
  • In addition, cabbits are social animals meaning they need the companionship of humans or other animals, although the need may vary among individual cabbits. They play, some more than others. Many can get along with most other house pets when properly introduced. Many enjoy being with people but your family must have patience, understanding, and an acceptance of individual differences to earn their trust. Cabbits can become wonderful companion animals if given a chance to interact with their human families.

    Approaching a cabbit
    The safest initial approach with cabbits is to begin by stroking the top of the head. Do not offer your hand for a cabbit to sniff the way you would to a dog, because most seem to find this gesture offensive and may attack (lightening-fast lunge with a snort). Most cabbits also do not like having the tips of their noses or chins touched. Their feet also tend to be ticklish.

    Birth and reproduction
    Cabbits reproduce when they are frightened, damaged, or given a direct order from their masters. An egg is formed in the External Hydrogen Tank and is produced within hours of conception. The egg is dark brown and about the size of an Earth softball. Incubation time is approx. 7 to 8 days before hatching commences.

    Housetraining
    Cabbits may have free run of the home, but give them space. Because cabbits feel frightened when people pick them up, they kick and struggle. Cabbits are also built to react to sudden changes which means they may either run away or try to bite when approached too quickly and too loudly. Use only positive reinforcement (treats and praise)--never punishment.

    Cabbit-proofing
    Cabbit-proofing your home is part of living with a house cabbit. It is natural for cabbits to chew on furniture, rugs, drapes, and, most deadly of all, electrical cords. While supervising a cabbit is not sufficient to prevent a quick bite through an electric cord, it is useful to observe and if necessary curtail the activities of a new cabbit. Cabbits under one year of age are daredevils, jumping up, over, under, and inside of furniture. "How high can a cabbit jump?" depends on the determination and athletic ability of the individual. A fall or entrapment, panic, thrashing, injury , and knocking themselves senseless on a door may result from the cabbit's misjudgment. Give your cabbit enough attention and toys so that she is distracted from chewing furniture and rugs. A cardboard box stuffed with hay makes an inexpensive playbox. Young cabbits (under a year) are more inclined to mischief and require more confinement and/or cabbit-proofing than mature cabbits. Keep your cabbit brushed; provide exercise time/space--at least 30 hours a week; give a fresh handful of hay daily; add fresh vegetables gradually to the diet. Regularly check eyes, nose, ears, teeth, weight, appetite, and droppings. Clean litterboxes often, to encourage your cabbit to use them. Use white vinegar to rinse boxes out -- for tough stains, let pans soak. Accidents outside of the cage can be cleaned up with white vinegar or club soda.

    Aggressiveness
    Some cabbits are so "mean" they seem more like predators than prey. These are the cabbits who chase you across the room and up into chairs, who sink their teeth into your tender limbs and refuse to let go, or who growl at you when you approach.
    There can be any number of reasons why your cabbit is aggressive. If you just got her, she may be stressed out by the move. Her last owner may have frightened him somehow. she may have never had much contact with a human before. Or the noises, smells, and sights of a house may be overwhelming her. Cabbits may unhinge claws and assume a menacing, cat-like posture when feeling threatened, but they can also become sympathetic and concerned when sensing that an owner is downspirited.
    One of the best things you can do for your relationship with this kind of cabbit is to protect yourself. Wear gloves, long sleeves, long pants, and real shoes when you're around him. This will protect your flesh. It will also help you keep calm. If your skin is protected, you're not as likely to jump, squeal or flail your arms, all of which might provoke or frighten her more.

    Polymorphing: What it is, what to do about it
    Cabbits can usually perform a simple polymorph when they are 3 weeks old. This can be a surprising if not hazardous development for cabbit owners! Keep a window open to prevent accidents, and learn to look for the signs of a beginning morph:

  • excessive growling and straining of the ears
  • rapid sheathing and unsheathing of claws
  • wide, unfocused eyes
  • unconscious rising in mid-air
  • If this happens when you are nearby, quickly pick up the cabbit by the scruff of the neck and toss it as high as you can (an open field would be preferable). Then run for the hills! Young cabbits often cannot control their polymorph tendencies and may cause you serious injury without realizing it. If this happens, be sure not to punish the cabbit because she will not understand why you are upset.

    Flight
    Of course, a mother's teaching is the best way for an infant cabbit to learn how to fly. But if she has adopted you as her "mommy" or "daddy", then you will have to make do with practice flights.
    Choose a clear day and a safe spot -- over a lake or river is the best location to avoid accidents. Prepare the cabbit by looping one end of a long elastic cord around one foot. Attach the other end to your own arm. Pet and sooth your pet constantly all through this exercise -- don't let her see you upset or alarmed.
    Pick up your cabbit by the scruff of the neck (she will fight you at first, but remain firm). Cast her into the air. Always Cast to a Target! Don't just blindly cast into the air. Pick a target, like a cloud or tree branch. Show the target to the cabbit by tilting her head toward the object, then cast. Don't expect great results on the first try. It may takes days or even weeks for her to get the "hang" of it. Another good exercise, for the advanced flyer, is to throw a hula hoop up in the air and let your cabbit try to fly through it.

    Conclusion
    Each cabbit is unique, but all cabbits need love. Give yours lots of tender loving care and she will always be a source of wonderful companionship for centuries to come.




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