Day   6 -   Apartaderos - Tabay:

Fact Sheet:       124 Km

                            Apartaderos - Laguna Mucubají - Pico El Aguila - Apartaderos - Mucuchíes - Tabay - Mérida - Tabay

                            Cabañas Mucuratay  - very good Chalet-style "cabaña" (fits 8)  aprox. USD 20 

As per norm, the day only kicks off after a good breakfast at a Panaderia. Here, talking to the locals, we learn that it is worth returning to the Laguna Mucubají, as the clouds usually give the tourists a break in the morning, before they have rolled in from the valleys. This we learn to our delight, to be true. This time we take in the lake, and appreciate the nature arround us. Startling were the Frailejón, which were all grey and sad yesterday afternoon, but with the mornin sun, all opened up to give the scenery a brighter touch: most of the Frailejón were full of yellow flowers. After the revisited Laguna, we head up to Pico El Aguila: acording to the locals, the highest paved motorway on earth, just topping the 4,000metre mark. On the way up the pass, we have some fun with local children, selling arepas, and end up giving them some sweets and drinks. We head on, after receiving a scolding from their granny, who went batty when she saw the children "talking to strabgers". We often drive right through clouds, and sometimes are over the tops. By the time we reach the summit, Amarildo and Ivone are not taking the altitude well: headache and guiddiness, with an unhappy feeling of not being well. Zé and Ramesh go up to the chapel, and try and see the valley, but the clouds are not cooperative. The temperature, at arround +4C also does not entice us too much. The girls selling "Fresa con Crema" are very friendly, and we buy some souvenirs, including the famous jam made from the blackcurrant that seems to be a favourite among the locals. Then we head back down to the Parque El Condor, run by the INPARQUES, where we see the greatest of all birds: the Condor. As Amarildo and Ivone are still not feeling better, we change our plans, and decide to head back down, instead of heading to Timotes and Valera, going straight on to Mérida. On the way down, past Apartaderos, Amarildo has to stop, and throw up. At San Rafael de Mucuchies, below the 3,000m alt. mark,  we stop and have a cup of tea at a small place selling souvenirs. The owner is very poor, but just as friendly, and makes us all a special brew, as he says we are suffering the "mal do páramo", due to the altitude. Amarildo and Ivone start feeling better as soon as they drink the tea. We better never know what was in it! We decide to find a place to rest, and find just the right spot near Tabay, about half an hours drive from the centre of the state capitol, Mérida. It is 16:00h, and here we find the "Cabañas Mucuratay": fantastic chalé-style "cabañas", and are warmly welcomed by the owners. Certainly worth staying here: on the hill, with a view to the peaks of the biggest mountains of Venezuela, and glimpses of Mérida down in the valley. The advantage of being in the countryside, but not far from Mérida, as we have a car. Amarildo and Ivone rest, and Zé and Ramesh go for a short recco trip into Mérida, stopping in San Rafael de Tabay and Tabay on the way. Dinner is at the Mucutay's restaurant, and mouthwatering. 

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