With green parks, red roofs and a blue river, Austria's second-largest city beckons the discerning tourist


Mention Austria and the mind conjures up snow-capped mountains, music by Mozart, sinfully rich Sacher Torte and, of course, the cities of Vienna and Salzburg. Few people, though, have heard about Graz, Austria's second-largest city after Vienna, in the southeast region of Styria.

In some ways that's good, as this strikingly beautiful city is rarely swamped by tourists, although with its harmonious blend of historical monuments and modern buildings, it certainly merits a visit.

Cobblestone streets, red-tiled roofs and a clear blue river that runs through the city are just a few of its charms. Two-thirds of the town is covered with beautiful parks and an interesting and vibrant art and cultural scene earned it the title of European Capital of Culture in 2003.

Because the city is situated in a cultural borderland between Central Europe, Italy and the Balkan States, Graz has absorbed various influences from these neighbouring regions, and these are reflected in its remarkable townscape.

Restaurants are abundant and varied, ranging from Indian to Japanese and Chinese, plus the usual smattering of international fast-food eateries. The locals still prefer the Mediterranean and Austrian food, though, and delicacies include such Styrian specialities as pork-filled dumplings, sausages, sterz (polenta) and backhenderl (crispy chicken).

The best way to explore is by foot but those who prefer alternative forms of transport can take advantage of the extensive network of local buses, trams and trains.

Start with the Old Town, one of the best-preserved city centres in Central Europe and named by Unesco as a World Cultural Heritage site in 2003. This is a great place to spend time around some of the major landmarks and get a feel of what Graz was like hundreds of years ago.

Hauptplatz is the main square and lies in the heart of the old town. The historical place was built in the Middle Ages and revamped in 2002 by local architect Markus Pernthaler. Several pedestrian streets lined with small antique shops, cafes and boutiques connect to this city centre, making it a popular hangout for the young.

A trip to the Schlossberg is a must. This formerly fortified wooded hill topped by a castle rises 472 metres above Graz and offers a panoramic view of the city. It is now a beautiful park and can be reached either via a funicular railway that stops next to the restaurant or by climbing 260 steps from the Schlossbergplatz.

At the top is the Glockenturm (bell tower), built in 1588 and one of the few castle structures still standing. During the summer months, concerts are held on the castle's ramparts, providing a unique ambience.

Nearby is the Uhrturm (clocktower), the traditional emblem of Graz. Its five-metre wide face has shown the exact time since 1712, despite the unusual fitting of its hand. Visitors can choose to either take a glass elevator or walk up the stairs to the clock tower, where they can enjoy a coffee shop while gazing down over the old town.

Graz is home to scores of museums and galleries, showcasing exhibitions of contemporary arts, photography, folklore and literature as well as the sciences, aviation and weaponry. World class theatre and music festivals are held throughout the year and include La Strada puppet theatre festival and Jazz-Sommer.

In the last few years several modern buildings have been, the most famous being the Kunsthaus Graz contemporary arts museum along the banks of Mur River. Designed by British architects Peter Cook and Colin Fournier, it is regarded an example of revolutionary architecture.

Another bizarre artistic creation is situated in the Mur. The Murinsel (Island in the Mur), is an open shell-shaped floating platform made of steel. Designed by American architect Vito Acconci, the Murinsel contains a cafe, an open-air theatre and a playground. Built in 2003 to celebrate Graz's title of the European Capital of Culture, it also functions as a bridge.

Graz is also home to celebrities, most notably Arnold Schwarzenegger, former actor and current governor of California. Others include astronomer Johannes Kepler and composer Robert Stolz.

But Graz has more to offer than just its city sights. The surrounding countryside is also an attractive destination for hiking and day trips to the famous Lipizzaner stud farms, castles, monasteries, archaeological trails and local vineyards.

Graz is probably Austria's best kept secret - and a hidden gem indeed!

Kittima Sethi
Special to The Nation