A Step Through Time

Lace was part of the Venetian dress code of the sixteenth century, and later Venice became an important centre for lace making. Below are images of existing lace, the tools used to produce it, and portraits showing this lavish trim. It was not uncommon to find more than one kind of lace used in conjunction with another, i.e. Punto in aria and reticella.

We know little for certain about the origins of bobbin lace. The case is otherwise for needle lace. Textile historians agree that Venetian openwork embroidery was the direct progenitor of this form of lace. According to Anne Kraatz (Lace: History and Fashion) in the early 1500's the exquisite embroideries for which Venice was famous, were becoming ever and ever more open and less and less of the foundation fabric upon which it was worked remained in the finished pieces. At the peak of it's development, this openwork embroidery evolved to an extreme form called Reticella. In Reticella only the geometric frames of woven fabric, upon which the outline stitches were done remained in the finished work. Open areas from which the woven threads had been removed were filled with needle-woven designs to provide the ornate fillings which were the final step toward the first true needle lace.

Finally, rather than go to the work of removing so much of the original fabric, the embroiderers began to lay down outline threads, couched to a pattern. The framework of the design was worked over these threads, while at the same time, the fillings of decorative stitches and designs were worked so that all the parts of the lace grew together as the work progressed. The early needle lace was termed Punto in Aria - literally, stitches in air.


Bobbin lace making pillow Venice lat C16 wood stuffed with hemp Musei civici centro studi di storia del tessutoe del costume Venice Lace bobbins 16th and 17th Centuries	This illustration of a pattern for Punto In Aria is from a pattern book by the Italian designer and producer of pattern books, Federico Vinciola This design shows the geometric influence forced by the use of woven fabric framework in the predecessor, Reticella, has not been completely abandoned.

Italian Late C16 border needle lace formed into a collar, possible needle lace.	Italian Late C16 border needle lace formed into a collar, possible needle lace,detail.

Linen, with cutwork and bobbin lace, Italy, Victoria and Albert Museum, London	Needle lace boarder 1600 - 1620, Victoria and Albert Museum, London


Instructions and lace from 'le Pompe 1559, Pattern for Venetian Bobbin Lace'	Portrait of a Woman, Francesco Montemezzano late 16th century.	Portrait of a Woman, Francesco Montemezzano late 16th century.

Instructions from 'le Pompe 1559, Pattern for Venetian Bobbin Lace'	Portrait of a Woman Seated, Domenico Tintoretto, late 16th century.	Portrait of a Woman Seated with Glove in Hand, Domenico Tintoretto, late 16th century.

All intellectual content, composition, layout, designs and photographs, unless otherwise noted are copyright 2007 to Deborah Lane ©, or, copyright 2003 to Deborah Murray © also known as Mistress Oonagh O'Neill ©. All Original renaissance art works and artefacts are not copyright to Deborah Murray, and are shown for educational use only . If you see something you'd really like to use, please contact me!