One of the more argumentative areas of stamp collecting concerns itself with condition. All stamps of the same type are not equal. Condition is usually the great value separator. To most beginning collectors, a stamp is a stamp. If it fills the space, that is all it is supposed to do. If one were to collect only by soaking stamps off the incoming mail, then condition would have no import whatsoever. However, once one comes to the point of buying stamps, then condition rears its ugly head to forever plague the collector. Condition is a measurement of perfection; and since everyone defines perfection differently, we end up with a real mess.

A stamp is made from paper, gum and an inked design printed on the paper. In perfect condition, the stamp has no paper defects, no gum defects, and no printing defects. This is how, in theory, the stamp should arrive from the printer and from the post office, and most of the time it does. In order for a stamp to be used, it must be separated from its neighbors. In the case of imperf stamps, this means the user must cut it from its neighbors. If this cutting is not done carefully (and usually it isn't), the resulting stamp has centering problems (uneven margins, which affect the symmetry thereby affecting the aesthetic properties, which results in a less-than-desirable stamp). The terms used most often to describe stamps are the terms applied to the stamp's centering condition: G(good), Av(average), P(poor), F(fine), VF(very fine), XF(extra fine), etc. See the front portion of a Scott's catalog for examples of various centerings. These descriptions of centering apply to centering only. (This, like many other things, is true in theory. In reality, one can say that the above listed centering descriptions usually refer only to centering; however, some auction catalogs use the terms that are less than F(fine) to describe stamps with other faults. Always read the conditions of a sale before you bid). A VF stamp can be torn, thin, etc. and still be VF. Modern day stamps arrive at the PO perforated. The quality of the perforations often leaves much to be desired. It is easy to purchase stamps at the PO that would be rated for centering as average or poor. Therefore, when buying stamps (if you ever wish to sell or trade them), the first thing to check is how well the stamp is centered.

Catalog prices are generally for F-VF stamps, which are ones fairly well-centered. Therefore, if you are purchasing a stamp that is less than well-centered, make sure you are paying less than well-centered prices. Again, centering is a major determinant in the price of a stamp. For those of you who collect U.S., be aware that a straight-edge on early U.S. stamps often causes them to be graded as average to good even though they may be perfectly centered. I personally don't care too much about centering or about straight edges. Those stamps came from the PO that way and they are, therefore in my own mind, not defective even though a better centered stamp looks nicer. However, should I ever try to sell my stamps, those straight edges and off-center stamps will bring me far less. Just remember that purists have no real sense of value. They will pay a fortune for a common stamp just because it is more perfect, and purists make the market. Now that I am done talking about how the PO ruins the value of stamps, I will discuss how you and I do the same.

Paper

Paper creases easily. Stock pages have bent many perforations and corners, ruining the value of the stamp. Wet tongues, overdoing the hinge licking, stick stamps to pages. The result -- thins or stamps with no gum. Again, the value of the stamp is reduced drastically. Stamps are easy to tear when separating from the sheet. They crease and tear when used on a letter when not properly stuck down. Stamps that are stored in moist areas get fungus spots, turn brown, turn brittle and again become close to worthless. Use your stamp tongs -- fingers stain stamps. Store your stamps properly and handle them with care. Damaged stamps (with tears, thin, etc) that still look good generally sell for about a tenth of catalog or less. Don't pay more! There is nothing wrong with nice looking space fillers (read damaged stamps) in your collection, just don't expect to get anything for them when you sell. Stamps whose appearance has been changed should be avoided.

Ink

The top of the stamp can be damaged as easily as the back. The ink surface can rub off on the back of the preceding album page or stock sheet. Rough handling can abrade the surface leaving rubbed-out places. The result is a damaged stamp. The sulfur in matches will change the color of certain stamps (U.S. C19 is a good example), so don't smoke around your stamps. Some watermark fluids blur the ink on some photogravure stamps so be careful. Many of these same photogravure stamps also run in water when soaked. Sunlight can bleach out or change the colors of many stamps. Keep your collection out of the sun. The Martyrs Issue of China

Gum

Be careful, especially when you mount your stamps. Hinges leave marks and in extreme cases overmoistening leads to thins. In addition, hinges can turn brown over time and stain the stamps they hold (poor quality and humidity will do it nicely). Personally, I collect hinged stamps. In fact, I hinge every NH stamp I can get my hands on, but I try to do it carefully. Using mounts is usually safer, but expensive. However, be aware that an over-moist tongue can damage stamps even in a mount. Also, use the right size mounts. Some photogravure stamps bleed with time in many mounts, especially the older ones. Glassines are not good for long-term storage (read over 20 years); and unless you are careful, stamps can get creased or stuck together in glassines if handled improperly or stored under humid conditions. Talc should not be used to preserve stamps. This was popular years ago for storing sheets of stamps. It makes a mess and ruins the stamps! Lastly, the new fad in stamp collecting is the use of the term "post office fresh". I have seen idiots on the NET say that this means a fingerprint on the back of a stamp is a defect. Wait until you ask your local PO clerk to wear gloves when she gets out your stamps.

Warmth and humidity support the growth of fungus. Fungus eats both paper and gum. Keep your collection cool and dry. The dry part is the most important. Humidity, if not controllable, will cause your stamps to stick to the album page requiring you to soak them off in order to retrieve them. This results in unused stamps with no gum. No gum is a defect.

Never use self-adhesive tape anywhere near a stamp. The gums on these tapes bleed with time. Never use rubber cement or glue stick in your albums. Both products turn brown and eventually ruin the paper. SUMMARY: Condition determines the value of a stamp when compared to its peers. Centering is important to the advanced collector, and therefore is important for resale value. Hinging matters to the purists -- the "my stamp is better than your stamp" crowd. Purists pay top dollar, and therefore NH (neverhinged) sometimes sell for more than hinged. Other damage such as stains, tears, thins, creases, repairs, etc. very much affect the value of a stamp. Think condition when you buy or trade, but then are you in the stamp business or is it a hobby? It's all up to you.