There's good info out there on the 14th century gothic fitted dress too, which I have gathered on this page. I don't own any of the resources and their respective authors retain all copyright. Its just here for your ease.
GFD:
These are a partly lined dress, with mostly rectangular contstruction: a body piece and side gores for fullness.
Fabric
The lining must be 100 percent linen for this to work- the stretch of the linen is key in getting the right fit. The outer fabric can be whatever: linen, linen-cotton blend in a pinch, silk, or wool. Don't bother to try it with artificial fibres because it won't work.
Research Links:
The researcher on this is Robin Netherton.
Here is her page: http://www.netherton.net/robin/
Follow the Barony of Arnhold's workshop link to see how the fitting is done. The trick is for the crucial bits, its fitted lying down.
www.barony-of-arnhold.org/gothicdress1.htm
See Lia de Thornegge's pages too- they are excellent:
swein.campus.luth.se/lia/garb/redwoolGFD/
Other Advice on Self Supporting Bodices in general:
www.glove.org/costume/bodice.asp