Frequently Asked (Falco) Questions

This site has been great for me in that I get a ton of email, and get to talk Falcos all year long. After over 200,000 hits and hundreds of emails, I figured it was probably time to compile a list of recurring questions.

Derestriction

Q: I have a different year Falco than you -- is the derestriction procedure the same?

A: Through the 2003 model year, they have not changed the procedure for the Falco.

Q: I have a Mille -- is the derestriction procedure the same?

A: For models years through 2001, the ECU wire and airbox derestriction are the same. Milles have a restriction in the exhaust that must also be removed. In 2002 they changed the procedure.

Q: I have a Futura/CapoNorde -- is the derestriction procedure the same?

A: No, these have different ECUs entirely.

Q: I bought a used Falco. How can I tell if my bike has already been derestricted?

A: By attempting to do it again. Open the airbox and make sure the plug is gone (the opening to the throttle bodies should be large enough for a tennis ball). Remove the seat and expose the ECU to check that the wire has been cut.

Q: I clipped the wire and removed the airbox plug and now the bike overheats. What went wrong?

A: I've heard this from two people, but haven't got enough details to know if the overheating was related to the derestriction.

EPROMs

Q: My used Falco came with aftermarket cans. How can I tell if I have an aftermarket chip?

A: Most chips are copy-protected. Open the ECU and have a look. If the chip sits on a tiny daughterboard, its an aftermarket chip. The stock chip is seated directly in the socket on the motherboard. The stock chip is also quite plain in its markings. Most just had a sticker with a few digits of code on it. Most aftermarket chip manufacturers but some sort of advertisement sticker on their chips.

Q: I'm running an aftermarket chip. Do I need to cut the ECU wire?

A: Most aftermarket chips I've seen only contain one map, and it doesn't matter if the wire is cut. Factory Pro gives you two slightly different maps, and you can try them both by cutting or repairing the wire. The safe answer is that you should always cut the wire.

Q: I'm running an aftermarket chip. Do I need to derestrict the airbox?

A: Almost certainly yes. Very few people would design a performance chip to work with a restricted airbox.

Q: Do I need an aftermarket exhaust to run an aftermarket chip?

A: In most cases no. The Falco exhaust is very well done. Besides sound and weight, there are not great flow differences between the stock and aftermarket slip-ons. A chip designed specifically for a full-system may be different, but I don't know of any at the present time.

Q: Do I need an aftermarket chip to run an aftermarket exhaust?

A: In most cases no. Again, the stock chip is rich enough to support the small change in flow you'll probably get. On this particular bike, you won't likely see much performance increase if any without the chip.

Q: I'm selling copies of aftermarket chips. Do you want one or know of anyone who does?

A: No, thank you. I don't steal intellectual property (although I have been known to "try before I buy" ;). No, I won't burn you one (sorry).

Exhaust

Q: Are the RSC cans loud?

A: Most certainly, yes. You are going to get a lot of attention with them. I haven't heard many alternatives, so I can't comment on them (not to say that there aren't alternatives, just that the local riders here seem to have RSC cans).

Tuning

Q: I'm running the RSC cans and chip (SL-Carbon). My bike stutters/hesitates when accelerating from below 3k. What's wrong?

A: This is a common side-effect of the RSC chip, and I don't know if it's fixable. Other chips (Factory Pro for one) do not do this. I would classify the problem as mild though. And its not an rpm range that I frequently ride in.

Q: Since I replaced my chip, my bike runs rich/doesn't idle well. What's wrong?

A: If you've balanced the throttle bodies and adjusted the CO pots as I've described, you may want to check your fuel pressure. There is variability in the stock pressure regulators and fuel pressure directly offsets the fuel maps on the chips.

Tires

Q: Which tires should I buy?

A: This is personal, but conventional wisdom says that the stock MEZ3's are a poor choice. They wear fast and are slow turning. I think Michelin Pilots are a good step up, without feeling unstable. For more mileage, the Bridgestone BT-010/020 series have many fans. I personally like the Dunlop D207/208 for their quick steering (nearly unstable) feeling, plus they wear well.

Oil

Q: Which oil should I use?

A: There's too much undeserved controversy around motorcycle oils I think. Personally, I'm using a semi-synthetic motorcycle oil from just about any quality manufacturer the shop happens to carry. I choose 15W-50.

Q: Will synthetic oil make the clutch slip?

A: Full synthetic and lighter weight oils may make a work-hardened clutch plate slip sooner, but my personal (limited) experience has been that driving style and clutch design are the root cause of clutch failure. My first clutch lasted 6,500 miles with full synthetic only. My second clutch lasted 7,500 miles with semi-synthetic only.

Q: How the hell do I set the oil level? Sometimes its low, sometimes its high -- what's going on?

A: The Falco uses a dry-sump lubrication system. The sight tube oil height varies with temperature, pressure, rpm and the phases of the moon. I think the position the oil pump stops in may have something to do with how much drain-back you get. I've found that you have to stop trying to fixate on a given level, and keep your eye on the range. When the bike is hot and parked, you don't want the oil over the max mark. When it is cold and running, you want to see some oil in the bottom of the tube. Just try to maintain it in that range. Overfilling the oil just leads to consumption from blowing oil into the airbox.

Q: My engine is using oil, or burning oil. It smokes on start-up! Am I in for a big service?

A: Before getting excited, remember that it is very easy to overfill the dry-sump. If you do overfill, the excess will get blown into the airbox and burn or go to the drain tube. Then you'll likely add more oil, and continue the cycle. Let the sump level drop a little and see if the usage doesn't go away.

If this is not your problem, it still may be easy. If you've recently had a valve service, check for leaks, particularly near the hard-to-access front valve cover. The gasket might not be installed correctly. Other places for leaks are under the coolant reservoir from a pump seal.

Finally, a rare but simple problem is a perforated clutch diaphragm. The slipper clutch has a rubber diaphragm under the clutch cover. It has oil on one side and manifold vacuum on the other. If there is a hole in the cover, oil can be drawn into the throttle bodies and burned.

Clutch

Q: Is there a problem with the Falco clutch?

A: Officially, no. Unofficially, many of us have worn out one or more clutches. I believe this has to do with the slipper clutch. The Falco (Mille) motor has a neat vacuum feedback system that not only reduces clutch effort, but slips the clutch a little on hard deceleration to limit wheel hop. It works well, but whenever you roll off the throttle you are slipping the clutch and of course wearing it. This slipper can be disabled if you like, but the simplicity of the clutch replacement and the relatively low cost ($150 every 7,500 miles for me) has kept me from pursuing solutions.

Q: My clutch fluid goes black quickly. My clutch lever is soft, or doesn't work until the very end of its travel. What's wrong?

A: These seem to be related to the clutch slave cylinder ("control cylinder"). The blackened fluid by itself seems to be unavoidable. The soft lever can be something as simple as particle of grit in the slave cylinder seal. See the main site for instructions on cleaning and bleeding the cylinder.

Compared to Other Bikes

Q: I'm torn between buying a Falco and another bike. Which is best?

A: The Falco :)

Q: I'm torn between buying a Falco and another bike. How bad is the maintenance on the Falco?

A: The procedures themselves are no harder than a Japanese motorcycle (in many ways, the construction is more traditional Japanese than Italian). If I were honest, I'd say the frequency of maintenance is a slightly more, but really, its a solidly constructed, reliable machine.

Q: I'm looking for a bike to tour on. Would you recommend the Falco?

A: Its not a purpose-built tourer for sure, but it transforms between sport and touring very easily. Wind protection and luggage are adequate for light touring. I would rate seat and handlebar comfort as sub-standard compared to purpose-built sport tourers though. Fortunately, the aftermarket has given us alternative seats and bars. Where the Falco shines I think is that the motor has not been tamed as is done in many sport touring machines. The raw edge does not fatigue me on long rides, in fact, it keeps me awake.

Computer Dashboard

Q: When I went to start my bike, the dashboard reset (to km/h, degrees C, 6,000 rpm). What happened?

A: This is not uncommon, and most people have associated it with battery voltage drop during cranking. The stock battery in my bike and others I've talked to were never really great from day one. There have been "fixes" demonstrated from simply getting a new battery (Wesco makes one with a bit more capacity), to using a trickle charger, to putting a big-ass capacitor in your trunk!

Q: I've replaced my battery and the bike still won't start reliably. What else could be wrong?

A: Several people have emailed me saying that the starter solenoid contacts corrode on this bike. Cleaning them has restored their starting.

Q: How to I remove the "SERVICE" indication from the dashboard?

A: Turn on the key, but don't start the bike. Hold the "LAP" button (flash-to-pass) on the left handgrip and press the "R" button on the dash. Hold both of these buttons down together for five seconds and the indicator will clear.

Q: How to I switch the speedometer from km/h to mph? How do I switch the clocks from mph to km/h? Can I switch the odometer units?

A: Push and hold button A for five seconds. The display left side will begin to flash. Release button A. Push button B to change display from kph to mph or vice versa. To confirm setting, push and hold A again for five seconds.

Q: Can I switch the temperature display to Fahrenheit? To Celcius? How do I set the clock?

A: Push D repeatedly until the segments on the right side display that you want to change are flashing, then use the lap button (high beam flash) to change.

Q: How do I set the redline threshold light?

A: With the key on, but engine off, use the C button to set the counter. If the C button is pressed momentarily for less than one second, the pointer will remind you of the current setting. To set the redline, push C, release it, then within three seconds press C a second time. As long as you hold in the C button, it will step up by itself (and wrap around if you go too high). To step it up slowly, release and click the C button momentarily and the needle will go up by 100 rpm each click. If you wait three seconds, without doing anything, you may be forced to start over. When you are done, press and hold C again for three seconds to store the setting. Confusing, but you get the feel for it. Keep in mind that this is just a reminder light, and doesn't change the rev-limiter.

Q: How do I clear the "SERVICE" notice from the dash? What does this notice mean?

A: The "SERVICE" display comes on at 1000 km (625 miles), and every 7,500 km (4,700 miles) afterwards. In general, it means time to change your oil but there are many "check/inspect/adjust" items in the service interval chart that are supposed to be done at this interval too. To clear the notice, push the LAP button (high beam flash button) and the dash R button and hold them both for five seconds.

Q: Can I change the clock from 24-hr mode to AM/PM (12-hr) mode?

A: No.

Q: My coolant temperature display says "LLL". What does that mean?

A: When the temperature is too hot (over 130 degrees C or 266 degrees F), "LLL" is displayed. This is a dangerous condition for your motor and you should pull over and shut down immediately. If the engine is obviously not overheated and you see the "LLL" displayed, it is likely a sensor error.

Misc

Q: How many miles do you get before reserve?

A: For me, it has varied between a low of 106 to a high of 155. Its completely dependent on your throttle and which gear you ride around in. On the highway in 6th gear mileage is outstanding. In the wheelie zone it's approaching the Superhawk's low standards. When I lived in town and commuted stop and go backroads to work, I averaged 118 miles to reserve (29-30 mpg?). I'm commuting mostly highway now and am getting 38 mpg. I've been told the tank reserve comes on around 4 gallons down and holds 4.75 gallons, but I've never bothered to verify.

Q: At what temperature does your fan come on?

A: There's some variability in the switches. My particular bike kicks in the fan at 202 F. I think the manual allows for up to 210 F from a good switch.

Q: Do you have the codes to match the red metallic paint?

A: No, I've been told this is a secret. But with the exception of Harley Davidson's relationship with PPG paints, I've never seen a paint code published for any motorcycle. Many Japanese bikes have a paint code under the seat, but this doesn't mean anything to the autobody shops (it is a proprietary serial number, not mixing instructions).

Q: What's the best modification?

A: Bang for the buck, the 15 tooth front sprocket is a steal. But I rank replacing the rear shock as the best thing I ever did.

Q: What is redline on this motor?

A: 10,500 rpm for a broken-in motor. During break-in, for the first 600 miles, Aprilia recommends 6,000 rpm. Between 600 and 950 miles, 7,500 rpm. Then 10,500 rpm afterwards. The redline indicator (flashing red LED) is just a cosmetic reminder and can be set by the owner to any value between 3,000 and 12,000 rpm. There is a rev-limiter at or above 10,500 rpm for the stock EEPROMs, and its value is not affected by the setting of the reminder light, and doesn't adjust itself for break-in.

Q: My idle went up to 4,000 rpm! What's going on?

A: Its likely your throttle cable locknuts have loosened.

Q: My key just rotates in the rear cowl lock, but doesn't release the latch. Do I need a locksmith?

A: No, the cable pull lever is bolted (was bolted) to the backside of the lock cylinder, and is probably hanging loose now. You can remove the seat and bolts on the rear cowl and get enough room to fish a coat hanger in there to pull the latch.

Q: Is there a service manual? Can you mail me one?

A: I originally started this site because there was not a service manual, or even oil change instructions in the U.S. owner's manual. Fortunately, Aprilia does now sell a Workshop Manual for the RSV Mille that mostly covers the Falco (there are only minor differences). I have purchased it, and it seems quite complete.

Someone of course has made a hefty 20MB PDF version of the manual available, with searchable text. I don't know if it is copyrighted or not, but in any case I won't distribute it. I've generally had no problem finding it in a search engine with the term "workshop_manual.pdf" (try sites other than Google, as they seem to have removed the listings lately). Additionally, people are selling the manuals on CD for cheap on Ebay, but I can't vouch for their quality or legality.

I have also seen a Haynes Repair Manual for sale online. These manuals are of mixed quality, depending on the model, and I can't speak for this particular manual. The ISBN number for this manual is 1844252558.

Q: I bought my bike used and it didn't come with an owner's manual. Can I purchase another?

A: Aprilia distributes electronic copies of its owner's manuals online at serviceaprilia.com. They have the Falco (SL Mille) manual available in many languages. You can get to this site through Aprilia's main portal under Customer Service.

Q: Did they discontinue the Falco?

A: Sadly, yes. 2003 was the last model year. Time will tell if the Falco becomes a cult-classic or just a trivia bike. There should be no problem getting critical parts as long as Aprilia keeps proliferating the 1000 cc Rotax motor in other bikes.

Site Hosting

Q: I like your site, can I translate it into another language? Can I use parts of it for my Futura/Caponorde/Mille site?

A: Please ask me first. I have never said no, I just like to know where the content is being reused and I like it if you give me credit and a link from your site.

Q: Your site is frequently unavailable due to bandwidth quotas. Would you like me to mirror it?

A: I often regret choosing a free hosting service, but at this point, the number of hits is much lower than it used to be, and I anticipate it will continue to decline. But you are welcome to exactly mirror my site, but as of now I have no way of keeping mirrors up to date. Please add text to the front page warning people that the site is a mirror and linking back to the original.

Q: Can I advertise on your site?

A: No, if for no other reason than it is against the Yahoo! Geocities terms of use. Plus, people visiting my site with Internet Explorer already see advertisements.

Go back to the Falco home page.

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