The Shocks: The shocks are KYB AGX gas adjustable shocks, these shocks have 4 settings that adjust both dampening and rebound (together).
The Strut Tops: STI front and rear, the material is the secret, it is firmer than the stock material. The fronts can be used on either side; the rears have a L/H and R/H.
The Springs: Eibach Sport Springs, they lower the car 1.5" in the front and 1.3" in the rear. These are progressive springs and must be installed in the correct orientation to work.
The Sway Bars: Hotchkis hollow tubular steel, this type of bar gives you incredible stiffness without the weight penalty. The rear is adjustable with three holes that let you alter the lever arm length.
The Endlinks: Hotchkis, the rears are machined aluminum with Zirc fitted sleeve bushings. The shape of the endlinks is designed to work with the outside mounting of the swaybar and will prevent any interference problems. (The stock rear endlinks will rub if used). The front endlinks are heavy-duty rod-ends with spherical bearings. (The stocks are also spherical bearings but the rod-ends are much smaller, and could possibly break if used with the new sway bar).
The Camber Bolts: An eccentric diameter bolt, use the strongest that can be purchased, because the diameter is smaller than the stock. (Not recommended for anything more than the street and autocross use).
Preparation: Wear personal protective equipment as needed, safety glasses, mechanics gloves, etc. Jack the vehicle and remove all 4 wheels.
Remove the Stock Strut Assemblies: Start with the bottom attach bolts, use lots of Kroil and allow to sit for awhile, tap the bolts with a little hammer then go to work with wrenches, hammer and strong arms. When the nuts break loose, safety wire the hub assembly to the car so it will not hang on the brake lines when the bolts are removed. Remove the lower bolts. Access the rear strut tops (behind seat) and the front strut tops (under metal covers), remove the attach nuts. Remove the struts and set on workbench. (Take a picture of the strut before the next step, so it can be consulted when assembling the strut).
Disassemble the Stock Shocks: This step is needed if using parts from the stock set up to the new set up. First mark the struts so you know which was removed from where. Using the spring compression tool compress the spring and then remove the attach nut on the top of shock. Un-compress the spring, remove tool and disassemble strut. Ah, but how to get the nut off? We have ways Grasshopper, grab a sacrificial 17mm socket and grind the sides until a boss is shaped on the ratchet end. Make it wide enough and deep enough to get an adjustable wrench on the end. You now have the magic key, a hex wrench is passed through the top to hold the shock shaft and the adjustable wrench goes on the magic key to loosen the nut.
Reassemble the new Shocks: To prepare for this step cut down the bump stops, the first groove in the bump stop is the cut location. Next exercise the shocks and then keep them in the upright position. Now is the time to consult the pictures that were taken prior to disassembly. (The pictures where taken yes?). Begin the assembly making sure the spring is upright (Eibach Name upright) and the end of spring in the indentation in spring perch. Rubber grommet tab is in the strut top groove, washers on the front struts and arrow to the outside on the rear struts. Getting torque on the top nut of the shock is tricky; holding the shock shaft by hand and then "bouncing" a ratchet against the nut can do this. This takes time but works pretty well, as an alternate if you have an air tool use it to run down the nut.
1/29/03 Copyright 2003, skoshiracing