SQUAW VALLEY is a mountain where skiers confront the difference between the myth and reality of their skills. Signature lifts--such as KT-22, Headwall, and Siberia--access multiple fall-line runs with enough cliffs, steeps, and mogul-choked chutes to force Warren Miller back to Truckee for more film. Carved from six peaks spread over 4,000 acres, Squaw is the fifth largest ski area in North America. The resort's imposing geography makes first-time visitors feel like they're looking through the wrong end of a telescope. "The very best ski area in the country for terrain," says a reader.

While Squaw continues to act as a homing beacon for adrenaline-junkies (readers rate it in the West's top 10 for steeps, bumps, and terrain), the sprawling resort can still cradle the novice. Atop the mountain, easy rolling shoulders and plateaus offer groomed slopes with calming views of Lake Tahoe. "My five-year-old could ski with us," a pleased parent says. A massive mountain with 33 lifts, Squaw is always a work in progress. Improvements this season: Skiers and snowboarders can ride a new platter lift under the lights at the mid-mountain halfpipe and terrain park. Additional lights also will be added to Squaw's longest trail, the 3-mile top-to-bottom Mountain Run. Non-alpinists can try cross-country skiing, ice skating and even swimming and bungee jumping at High Camp, Squaw's unique high mountain lodge and recreation center.  

With as many as 14,000 California day-trippers piling in on weekends, base, road, and parking congestion remain a headache. "Traffic was like the Santa Monica Freeway," a reader snipes.

Après-ski options are spirited. High Camp, Plump Jack's in the Squaw Valley Inn and Graham's, located in the original homestead of Squaw co-founder Wayne Poulsen, offer elegant dining. Or revelers can always burnish their edges in Truckee and Tahoe City, about 10 minutes away, which means the Naughty Dog is always within reach.

A short drive off Interstate 80, Squaw is 45 miles from the Reno-Tahoe International Airport and 100 miles east of Sacramento.

THE PEAKS:

* Super steeps

* Weekend crowds

* Terrific, varied terrain

THE FLATS:

* Limited parking

* Off-snow options

* Confusing layout

VERTICAL: 2,850 feet

BASE ELEVATION: 6,200 feet

SNOWFALL: 455 inches

SNOWMAKING: 250 acres

TRAILS: 30% Beginner 45% Intermediate 25% Expert

LIFTS: 1 tram, 1 gondola, 4 high-speed quads, 22 fixed chairs, 5 surface lifts

CHILDREN'S LEARNING AREA: yes

NIGHT SKIING: 270 acres

SNOWBOARDING: 1 halfpipe; 1 park

LODGING AT SLOPES: 2,400 visitors

XC TRAILS: 14 km

INFORMATION & RESERVATIONS: (800) 545-4350

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ALPINE MEADOWS, California

THE HEADLINE INSIDE the Alpine Meadows trail map reads, "Go Explore." This invitation to push the boundaries reflects the mountain's roguish character. The best skiing at Alpine is tucked around a tree-lined corner or spread below a distant cornice. The area rewards the urge to trudge across a long traverse to see what lies over the next ridge. And days after a storm, freshies can still be found in Alpine's glades and open bowls. "Endless powder for those who know where to find it," gloats one plugged-in reader.

One of Alpine's longstanding charms has been its

skiing-that-time-forgot feel. But a major change will send ripples through this purist paradise: the admission of snowboarders. Alpine had been the last skiers-only holdout in California, but the resort finally joined the modern world. Management claims its boarder-policy shift won't change the resort's ambience. But traditionalists, who lauded the fact that there are "no pesky snowboarders to contend with," may be in for a bit of an adjustment.  

The other change in Alpine's character is the arrival of a high-speed "six-pack" lift, the first in the Sierra Nevada. Mounted on the towers of the deceased Summit chair, the new lift can carry 400 more passengers per hour than its predecessor. It whisks skiers to the top in 5 minutes.

But what truly sets Alpine apart is its harmonious blend of off-piste, wilderness skiing and flawlessly groomed cruising runs. "It makes for laid-back skiing," says one contented reader. Most of the trails adjacent to the main lifts are tilled to perfection every night, so on clear days one can ski forever and never encounter a bump. More adventurous souls can hike five to 15 minutes and savor untouched terrain. Readers compliment Alpine for its natural beauty, great snow and, quite simply, the mountain. A plus for sun-lovers, the resort averages the West's sixth-longest season.

Although Alpine has little to offer in slopeside amenities, there still is fun to be found. The area is only 10 miles from Truckee and 5 from Tahoe City, a town that never seems to sleep. The most convenient airport is in Reno, less than an hour away.  

THE PEAKS

* Terrain

* Down-home feel

* Sierra scenery

THE FLATS

* No lodging

* Slopeside amenities

* Old and slow lifts

VERTICAL: 1,800 feet

BASE ELEVATION: 7,000 feet

SNOWFALL: 388 inches

SNOWMAKING: 180 acres

TRAILS: 25% Beginner40% Intermediate 35% Expert

LIFTS: Planned for '96-'97: 1 high-speed 6-passenger lift, 1 high-speed quad, 9 fixed chairs, 1 surface lift

CHILDREN'S LEARNING AREA: yes

NIGHT SKIING: none

SNOWBOARDING: snowboarding allowed

LODGING AT SLOPES: none

XC TRAILS: none

INFORMATION: (800) 441-4423. RESERVATIONS: (800) 949-3296

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NORTHSTAR-AT-TAHOE, Calif.

IN A NEIGHBORHOOD famous for yahoo-yelling cornice jumpers, Northstar-at-Tahoe is taking a quieter road to success. Family friendly, the resort ranks sixth in North America for its children's programs. Last season it added a Magic Carpet lift--a moving sidewalk on snow--to its children's ski school area. This year, the mid-mountain school site will be expanded to further remove young students from intimidating skier traffic.

Northstar also understands that families mean kids, and kids just want to have fun. The resort is an industry leader in terrain parks, which feature snowcat-sculpted spines, rolls, and mini-jumps on designated trails for both snowboarders and skiers to hoot and holler on.

Northstar lacks the lure of the precipitous steeps of nearby Squaw or Alpine Meadows, but it does pamper guests with grooming rated among the West's top five. Most of the front face is meticulously rolled by an expanding fleet of snowcats, which isn't good news to everyone. "The black diamonds are really blues," huffs one reader.

The back side is Northstar's best-kept secret, with bolt-straight runs of moderately challenging pitch that plummet 1,800 vertical feet. It's also home to superb tree-skiing on powder days and great cruising all the time. "This is the best intermediate mountain in the USA," a reader gushes.

An electronic trail map at the top of Mt. Pluto lets skiers study trail and lift status before they push off. It's a big help to those unfamiliar with the area.

Readers rate Northstar's service tops in California. One of its most popular customer-friendly moves is a frequent-skier program called Club Vertical. A watch-like device records vertical feet skied, enabling skiers to earn discounts on lift tickets. A $49 initiation fee buys the privilege of members-only liftlines for the season, which is a necessary perk during crowded weekends.

Northstar's approval rating slips in regard to getting onto the slopes. Readers grouse that parking is inadequate and that it takes a gondola ride to reach the base of the skiing terrain. The resort is an easy 45 minutes west of Reno International Airport.

THE PEAKS

* Great family resort

* Fast lifts

* Back side runs

THE FLATS

* No real expert terrain

* Lift ride to base

* Inadequate parking

VERTICAL: 2,280 feet

BASE ELEVATION: 6,330 feet

SNOWFALL: 341 inches

SNOWMAKING: 200 acres

TRAILS: 25% Beginner 50% Intermediate 25% Expert

LIFTS: 1 gondola, 4 high-speed quads, 4 fixed chairs,

3 surface lifts

CHILDREN'S LEARNING AREA: yes

NIGHT SKIING: none

SNOWBOARDING: snowboarding allowed

LODGING AT SLOPES: 750 visitors

XC TRAILS: 65 km

INFORMATION: (916) 562-1010. RESERVATIONS: (800) GO-NORTH

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SIERRA-AT-TAHOE, California

REVEREND BRUCE Crawford of nearby Placerville carved so many turns down a narrow, steep-sided gully thatSierra-at-Tahoe management finally named the run "Preacher's Passion." Not every skier's favorite shot will be renamed, but much of Sierra-at-Tahoe's appeal stems from treating visitors more like pals than customers. "People are friendly and helpful" is a common reader response.

The resort has more than friendliness in its favor. Rising above a high Sierra valley, it averages 500 inches of snow annually, fifth in the nation, according to Snow Country's rankings. When Pacific storms hit, locals head for the trees off Huckleberry Mountain and down the steeps of Dynamite and Castle. The mantled geography, dominated by thick forests of ponderosa pine and fir, shields fresh snow from harsh winter winds. "It's a great mountain during storms due to the tree protection," a reader comments. On clear days at the 8,852-foot summit, skiers can enjoy spectacular views of emerald-hued Lake Tahoe.

Most of the terrain has modest, cruiser pitches, which are well-groomed but offer little challenge. "An intermediate mountain unless you stay out of bounds," critiques a reader. The area does boast a 300-foot half-pipe and three terrain gardens for riders and skiers to share.

The area also boasts valuable price breaks. Teens age 13­19 can get $10 off the price of a regular all-day adult ticket, which was $39 last season. And all customers can take advantage of the "Sunday Solution" ticket, which comes with a $10 refund if returned by 2:30 p.m.

The resort's weakness is its relative isolation. "No off-hill activity, no lodging," warns a reader. "Après-ski activities are pretty quiet." In fact, the area has just one bar, the Sierra Pub. The closest towns are Placerville to the west and South Lake Tahoe to the east, both at least 30 minutes away. Echo Summit, the pass that leads to Lake Tahoe, can be a bear to drive during a winter storm.

The most convenient airport is Reno, about an hour-and-a-half drive from the resort. Round-trip shuttle buses are available.

THE PEAKS

* Loads of snow

* Tree-skiing

* Friendly service

THE FLATS

* Lack of challenge

* No slopeside lodging

* Snoozer après-ski

VERTICAL: 2,212 feet

BASE ELEVATION: 6,640 feet

SNOWFALL: 500 inches

SNOWMAKING: 60 acres

TRAILS: Beginner 25% Intermediate 50% Expert 25%

LIFTS: 3 high-speed quads, 6 fixed chairs, 1 surface lift

CHILDREN'S LEARNING AREA: yes

NIGHT SKIING: none

SNOWBOARDING: 1 halfpipe; 3 parks

LODGING AT SLOPES: none

XC TRAILS: 60 km

INFORMATION: (916) 659-7453

RESERVATIONS: (800) AT-TAHOE

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KIRKWOOD, California

KIRKWOOD HAS yet to assemble all the ingredients it needs to become a world-class resort, but it has the two most important criteria nailed down: abundant natural snow and richly varied terrain. And with $15 million in improvements, it's adding the standard requirements for today's skier: a comfy base lodge, better on-mountain restaurants and shops, a bigger children's area, and an expanded instruction program.

For skiers willing to forgo a few luxuries, Kirkwood is an answered prayer. Ranking fourth nationally for snowfall, the area averages 523 inches a year. Nevertheless, Kirkwood installed its first snow guns this year for early-season snow insurance.

Kirkwood's snow adorns bevies of bumps and some of the most rugged off-piste terrain in the States. Readers rave over "the variety of hardball skiing." Daunting drops off The Wall, the cornice called The Wave, and the daring descent down Two-Man Chute can thrill the experienced skier. In all, 805 expert acres will test a skier's legs and lungs. "There's a lot of isolated, pristine terrain," says one admirer. Confides another chastened visitor: "It will bring you down a few pegs if you think you're a good skier."

Complaints about Kirkwood's "antiquated lifts" will be addressed next season when the area's first detachable quad will replace the Sunrise lift. In the meantime, current outlay has gone to construction in the base area, including the $9 million Lodge at Kirkwood. Due to open next March, the Lodge will house 19 condominiums and several stores.

Expansion also is underway at the Timber Creek Learn-to-Ski area, where a new children's center has been built and two new surface tows installed. A kids-only terrain park will debut this season, as will a new snowboard center.

Kirkwood's 2,300 acres are usually uncrowded, partly because the resort is fairly out of the way. From Reno's airport, out-of-state visitors can expect a 90-minute drive. Californians staying in South Lake Tahoe can find that their 35-minute trip to Kirkwood becomes an eternity when blowing blizzards close Carson Pass.

THE PEAKS

* Natural snowfall

* Advanced ski terrain

* Uncrowded

THE FLATS

* Slow, old lifts

* Limited nightlife

* Isolated

VERTICAL: 2,000 feet

BASE ELEVATION: 7,800 feet

SNOWFALL: 523 inches

SNOWMAKING: none

TRAILS: Beginner 15% Intermediate 50% Expert 35%

LIFTS: Planned for '96-'97: 10 fixed chairs,

3 surface lifts

CHILDREN'S LEARNING AREA: yes

NIGHT SKIING: none

SNOWBOARDING: Planned for '96-'97: 1 halfpipe; 3 parks

LODGING AT SLOPES: 500 visitors

XC TRAILS: 85 km

INFORMATION: (209) 258-6000

RESERVATIONS: (800) 967-7500