Power: It has more acceleration than I expected. I don't have to put my foot ibnto the pedal much to accelerate up grades or keep up with traffic.  It doesn't accelerate like a gas V8 for passing situations, but feels similar to the 2F. Even though it's horsepower specs are the same as a 2F, but it feels slightly more powerfull. I've driven some 6.2 diesel vehicles that were sluggish, and others that were ok. Mine is fine. Luck of the draw I guess. I can cruise down the interstate 75 MPH without having my foot into the accelerator. Not something you can count on with all light duty diesel engines. I had originally planned on adding a turbo, but now feel I'm ok without it.

Noise: The 6.2 is slightly louder and doesn't have the smooth purr of a Toyota 6 cyl diesel like the 2H or 1HZ.
But it's not bad either.Not that quietness was a big concern, but it's probably the 2nd quietest diesel that could be installed.
It's quieter than a Toyota B series 4 cyl engine, Cummins, Isuzu or others.
No  vibrations are felt inside at idle or driving. Quieter inside than expected. 
I bought Dynamat sound deadener before the conversion anticipating high interior noise levels. Didn't need it. I just now put it on the floorboards/lower firewall area. It didn't reduce noise level all that much. 

Driving: First gear doesn't get used at all. It feels like a granny gear. Engine is turning 2200 RPM at 65 MPH (speedo not corrected for lager tires). The 5th gear is 27% OD. I have 3:70 gears with 33" tires, it's geared perfect.
An overdrive is a MUST have for a diesel conversion like this that will be driven at interstate speeds. 

My opinion on these conversions is: You do it because you like diesels or want something different. Not because you expect to recoup the cost of a conversion in fuel savings. I doubt my fuel savings will recoup the $4K plus time & labor I have invested in this project even if I were to get 25 MPG.  At least not for a long time. Most conversions cost substantially more than $4K.
Diesels aren't for everyone. If you don't like the smell or noise, a diesel isn't for you.

The engine runs fine on veggie oil. Can't really tell a difference in power until the filters start to clog. The first time I flipped the switch, I couldn't believe it was running on WVO. I had to go go out and pinch off the the diesel fuel line off to verify it was in fact really running on the WVO. It felt like instant success!
 

1 year review: I would encourage more than discourage anyone wanting to do this. But there are some obstacles.For something so simple, it sure can be time consuming. At times it seemed like it was consuming my life. If your life is filled with activities and hobbies, one of your other hobbies will have to take a back seat. It's not hard work, but interesting, fun and rewarding if you don't mind getting your hands dirty. I now feel most of the hard work is over. Before starting this project, the WVO conversion route seemed like it would be easier and less hassle than going the biodiesel route. Now biodiesel doesn't look quite so bad. It still looks like lots of work too, but less vehicle risks, and no pulling over for filter change outs. But now with all the time involved with WVO behind me, it is the course I'll maintain.
I haven't ran on WVO as much as I had originally thought I would. Not practical for short trips because it has to be heated first and shut off and run on diesel 5 min before stopping or parking somewhere. I always run it on WVO if I will be driving more than 30 min or taking a road trip. I had beginners luck the first three months and had no problems. Mainly because I had a supply of WVO saved up that I got from friends and coworkers. Usually the oil had only had something fried in it once. Once I started getting the WVO from restaurants the problems began. I tried WVO oil from 15 different restaurants before I found a good source. Good clean grease will save you LOTS of work. I filter my WVO down to two microns before it goes in the vehicle. My primary 30 micron filter on my had been clogging with lard every 100 to 150 miles. How does WVO that's been filtered super fine down to two microns clog a 30 micron filter on the vehicle??!! I guess because the 30 micron filter is on the suction side before the pump, and I filter the WVO under pressure to get it through the two micron filters. I attempted to run without a primary filter on the vehicle and just filter it through both a 10 micron and then a 6 micron filter near the engine. I didn't have to change filters as often, but I noticed more smoke and fuel consumption. Even when on diesel. I was sweating it that Inj pump or engine damage had occurred for a little while there. I ran exclusively diesel for a month, and I think I finally got the lard deposits out of the fuel system and engine is nearly back to normal.  I prefer the added safety of the 30 micron suction side filter and leave it on now. I've learned to adapt. I carry extra filters, rubber gloves and ziplock bags with me. I also have all my filter housing mounted with wing nuts for easier roadside change outs. When driving down the interstate, and a filter clogs, I just flip the switch to run on diesel. I don't have to pull over or stop. I just keep going on diesel until I decide to pull over and change a filter. All the hard work is out of the way. It is getting easier and less time consuming. After changing my pre filtering methods many times, reconfiguring my vehicles system a few times, heat source and filter placements and getting my WVO at a good source, I can now go 400 to 450 miles before a filter change out.

I went with a  Chevy 6.2. I feel comfortable with that. I've never owned one, but family members have had them and I've known people that have had them, and I did a short stint as a mechanic at a GM truck dealership, so I'm familiar with them. They fall short of expectations for people that think just because it's a diesel, it should pull 10,000 lb trailers with ease up mountains. They are a lighter duty diesel and aren't designed for that. Their reputation lags behind Cummins and powerstroke just because they aren't as powerful or heavy duty. They don't stand up to competition and extreme extended demands as other heavier duty diesels. But they are reliable and just fine in a 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton truck and usually give years of reliable service used within their limitations. There are heavier duty and more durable diesels out there, but I think a 6.2 or 6.5 is well suited for a Land Cruiser. I feel confident  of a 250K miles sevice life without major repairs. After a year and a half since the installation, the only repair needed had been a new injection pump.
 All Diesels have different characteristics. I wanted smooth and quiet because mine is a daily driver. Other engines will have better economy, or better power, but will rattle your teeth.
No diesel engine exceeds in all three of the following characteristics: (1)Power,(2) Economy, (3)Quietness/smoothness. You can find them that excel or stand out in two out of the three, but not all three at the same time. The 6.2 exceed at any of the three, but is decent with all three and is a well rounded engine.
 I think a 6.2 is slightly louder than the Toyota 6 cyl or Nissan diesels, but not as loud as Cummins, Powerstroke or Isuzu truck diesels.The Toyota diesel is probably a better engineered more reliable engine than the 6.2, but the 6.2 is more powerful with about the same fuel mileage. I've observed similar fuel consumption between a 6.2 powered GMC truck and a Toyota HJ45 pickup. The Toyota diesel is my first choice, but they aren't perfect without faults either.
The 6.2 gets a bad rap because many people associate them with the bad reliability of the Oldsmobile diesels of the late 70’s early 80’s, and the electronic injection pump problems on the GM 6.5's  94 up models. They also got a reputation for being gutless and slow. They are slow by US standards, but seem powerful to those accustomed to driving stock non turbo Toyota Diesels. 

Any reliability issues that I see are problems with a 6.2 are minor and perifreal and can be overcome.
Potential problems I have observed are automatic glow plug controllers, starters and the lack of a hand fuel primer pump. 
Glow plug controllers seem to last about 2 years. They cost $85 a pop. Marginally bad ones will keep burning out glow plugs. Owners don't replace the controllers and get tired of replacing glow plugs. They now think diesels are troublesome. US auto makers use 6 volt style glow plugs. They do this for driver convenience because they heat up allot faster with 12V applied. But I think they burn out sooner and don't last as long. I think a Delco part# 60G is the 12v style glow plug. They aren't listed as a replacement unit in the parts stores computers or books. Have to ask for them. Put in a  manual momentary switch to replace the automatic controller and use 12V glow plugs, you'll never have to buy a controller again, and rarely a glow plug. Only drawback is you have to push a button to heat the glow plugs. No big deal!

Make sure the harmonic balancer is in good shape. The rubber between the inner and outer portion isn't cracked or warped. The cranks have been known to break if the balancer is bad. Otherwise the cranks are ok. GM should have used forged cranks instead of cast ones though.
GM didn't put a hand primer pump in their vehicles. If they run out of fuel, you have to crank the hell out of the engine before they prime up and start. People have burned starters up doing this.  A marine outboard primer or hand pump from another vehicle being installed  fixes this. The early starters don't seem to be resistant to heat from lots of cranking. The starters also don't like the water. They also don't fare well to multiple submerged river crossings. GM changed them in the early 90’s with a better designed starter.

What year??:
The GM diesel evolved into a better engine over time. The  82’s have the best strongest high nickel content block, but also have bigger valve heads more susceptible to cracking. In 83 they reduced the valve size to ease the head cracking problem. Late eighties/early 90's They came out with the serpentine belt and assy setup. 91 or 92 came the 6.5. Then in 92 came the factory turbo. In 1994 they went computer, and have electronic inj pump controls. The inj pumps were subject to failure. The circuit board in them failed because of heat. Especially the early years 94 to 96. There is a cure, you can buy a kit ($300) to move the circuit board out of the pump and mount it remotely. Still using anything with electronic controls is extra wiring work on an engine swap. The most sought after engine is the turbo charged 6.5 non electronic inj pump engine or 1992 and 1993.  If I were looking for an engine for a engine swap, I would look for 83 to 93 model years