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Krazgeo and the Lowrider:

The Lowrider went in today for its clutch, rear crank seal, and Delrin subframe bushings. The technician will start on it
this afternoon, but get into the nitty-gritty tomorrow, to not leave the engine hanging overnight. He has done several
SHOs before, quite successfully, but for some reason he didn't seem sure of the Delrin bushings and their replacing of
the original ones. So, I'm asking you if there are any difficulties he might encounter when he gets to where they come
into play. I have never fooled with subframe bushings before, so I cannot answer his questions. My questions might
seem obvious to some, but I remember when strut work wasn't so obvious to me!! ;-)) So... which way do they go
in...with the ring on the upper side (my mind's eye says yes), or the bottom side?   Will it be obvious when he gets
there?

Josh Teixeira:

Ring on the top. Make sure the subframe is clean of all dirt, grease, and rust before installation. You may need to
pound the old ones out with a hammer (be sure to remove the 4 tiny nuts per bushing, if used). None of the shims on the
top are re-used ... the bushings should contact the subframe and body directly.

KG:

We are using two subframe recall kits (which I don't need for rust repair) just to get the washers so as to protect the
bushings from the bolt. But there are already washers on the bottom of the bushings which appear to be good....do I
not need these new washers?

JT:

If the washers are identical to the washers in the subframe kit, and as long as they are in good shape, they can be
re-used. If there is a little raised ridge around the hole in the middle of the washer, be sure to grind it off flat with a
grinder before installation. This ridge exists for sure on the new ones, but the previous tech may already have ground it
off the old ones, if he knew what he was doing, depending on what type of subframe bushings came in the car from the
factory (there are many different types) ...

KG:

Are there any other cautions and warnings that we need to know about when all this goes back together, sometime
tomorrow afternoon?

JT:

Be sure to align the subframe with the 3/4" rod like the manual talks about in the subframe section, and be sure to do a
wheel alignment check afterwards. Be sure to torque the subframe bolts properly, and check the torque a few times
over the next month or so.

KG:

Also. He said he had not replaced a rear seal before. So, exactly how much disturbing will he do to the rear oil pan seal
when this carrier part comes out? You have previously said it could be done without disturbing the pan, so we are
pressing ahead, but do we need to drop the pan part way to get this part off? Exactly how much disturbing will we be
doing...should the pan come all the way off and be put back on properly, in order to prevent leaks between now and the time I do the bearings?

JT:

If you are replacing the rear main seal carrier gasket and the rear main seal, undo the bolts holding the carrier to the
block. Carefully pry the carrier EVENLY away from the block, keeping the carrier parallel to the block at all times.
(There are locating dowels in the block that go into the carrier, and if you try to pry it off crooked, you could damage
something) There is no need to loosen the pan (unless you intend to re-seal it and replace the oil pan seals at the same
time). When the carrier finally comes free of the oil pan and the block, you will see the rear oil pan seal in the bottom of
the carrier. Don't play with it - just be sure to clean it carefully, and a little RTV on it won't hurt when you reassemble
(on the rear oil pan seal, that is). Clean the old rear main seal carrier gasket off the carrier and the block before you
install a new one, and be sure to clean the entire area. The old rear main seal is removed from the carrier with a punch
from the inside of the carrier. When installing, install the carrier with the carrier gasket and tighten carefully and evenly
to the torque spec in the manual. Then install the rear main seal afterwards (be sure to lube the rear main seal before
installation), and again, install the seal evenly around the crankshaft until it seats fully.

That's about it! Good luck!

KG:

Thanks to Josh Teixeira for his continuously available expert advice on jobs we don't do every day on our cars!

George and the Lowrider   ...   little by little, becoming a brand new car!!! (Mechanically)