Recall2

The Reliable Recall -
For the Very Young Puppy

The puppy from 3 to 16 weeks of age is in his formulative period. Whatever he learns in this period of time will be imprinted on his brain and will never be forgotten -- whether that thing is good or bad. So, the idea is to pattern him for the behaviors we want and prevent him from making any mistakes.

The most common mistake owners make is not having a clear idea of what they want from their puppies, and therefore they confuse their pups with inconsistencies and uncertainties. So before you ask your pup for a behavior, make sure you have a clear picture in your mind of what you want. Also, be sure you are convinced that you are entitled to require said behavior. If you project indecision, you perceptive pup will pick up on it and start testing your limits.

To get a clear picture of what you want, break down the behavior into its parts. For the recall, the dog is called, he must turn his attention toward you, move toward you, move toward you quickly, center himself on your body, within hands' reach, sit, and stay until either released or given another command.

Why must the dog do all of that, you wonder? Isn't it enough that he comes to me?

No, because if you ask a dog to perform 100% you will get back 95%. If you ask for 50% you will get back 10%. If your dog is focusing on running to you, finding the correct 'front' and awaiting the next command, you might get a crooked sit or an anticipated finish. But the dog will have returned to you and you would have been able to fasten his leash on him if you'd needed to. If you have asked only that the dog return to you, then he might mosey on over...and then tease you by bouncing a few steps away...and then a few more....

Get the picture?

So even as a baby, we're going to pattern the whole recall.

You'll need to find out what drive motivates your puppy. Food, toys (play drive), or tossed balls (prey drive), for example. Sometimes it's all of them; sometimes it varies from day to day. I have found food to be a good motivator for a puppy, particularly liver cookies.

Method One:

Do this just before mealtime for maximum results. Show the pup the motivator, which you are holding in your hand, but do not let him have it. Once you have his attention, hold your hand with the motivator just peeking out at his nose level, in front of his nose. At this point you may have to be bent over -- not desirable but unavoidable. The food is your steering wheel. The puppy is going to follow your hand as you walk backward (thus engaging his prey drive as well) As soon as you see the pup walking in your direction say, "Puppy (the puppy's name), come!" Make your voice pleasant. Smile. Tell him he is wonderful.

After the puppy has taken 3-5 steps in your direction you stop moving but bring your hands to your legs and let the puppy get the food. Do not ask for a sit yet. Repeat until he has responded to the 'come' command three times, then proceed to the next step.

The 4th time you do a recall, you will add the 'sit' command. Ideally, you will have already introduced the puppy to this command separately from this exercise, but if not, you can do it here.

This time, after you've gotten the pup's attention, guided him toward you as you've walked backward and stopped, instead of giving him the food you're going to use the food to lift the pup's nose until it is perpendicular to the ground. That is, you're going to raise the food slowly enough so he can follow it with his muzzle, in a small arc, aiming between his ears. You will say "sit" and as soon as his bottom hits the ground you are going to give him the food. He does not have to stay sitting yet.

Repeat two more times, and then quit. Don't overwork the very young puppy. Work in cycles of 3, several times a day.

Gradually, increase the distance you are walking backward until the puppy is trotting happily toward you. After a few days of this you will see that the puppy is anticipating the sit, and when you stop, he will melt into the sit position and look for the treat. When you see that happen you can eliminate the sit command. Just hold the food above his nose, but do not let him have it until he is sitting.

Once you have the automatic sit in front, try calling the puppy from further away, and not moving backward quite so far. Make all changes gradual ones, building on the foundations you've laid. If you have a problem, retreat back to the lower step and repeat a few times before trying the new level again.

Under no circumstances should you allow your puppy to disobey a recall command. Do whatever you must to get him to take even a step or two on his own, in your direction.

Method 2

In a safe area, such as a fenced yard, or large kitchen, sit down on the ground or floor. When the puppy comes charging over to you, say "Puppy, come!" as he is on his way. Open your arms for him. Smile. Tell him that he is the most wonderful puppy in the whole world. Then add the food and the sit as above.

Method 3

Have someone hold the pup's collar while you walk away from it. (If the pup seems real nonchalant that you're leaving, try running away from it.) From about 25-30 feet away, turn around and crouch down, calling, "Puppy, come!" Pup should come charging. Do food and sit as above.

If, at any time, the puppy loses interest or heads off in another direction, clap your hands, whistle, call, "Puppy, puppy!" and run away from the puppy. When he chases you, tell him he's wonderful but the next time you do this exercise, let him drag a light leash.

If you have one of those rare very young puppies that needs a leash, use that leash not as a restraining device but as a signaling device. It would be okay to give a gentle pop to show the pup what direction you want him to move in, and then let him finish coming to you under his own power; it would not be good to reel him in, hand over hand, like some kind of fish. That, in fact, would just engage his oppositional reflex and he would want to run away from it. It's not likely it would happen but under no circumstances allow the puppy to get away with not coming to you. What we are doing here is patterning the puppy to respond to a come command. At this point, everything we do should be positive, kept to a short time, and repeated in cycles of 3 on a fairly frequent basis. Continue to pattern this exercise as you continue to lay the foundation for all of his behaviors, until he is four months of age. At 16 weeks his brain takes on adult patterns and you should move on to the next section.

Click here for Recall, Part 3

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