ThailandStoryHillTribes

After a couple of days in Bangkok we were ready to make the journey by night bus to Chiang Mai. Our "VIP-Air-Conditioned-Bus-With-Luxurious-Reclining-Seats" turned out to be a real junker. The first sign of problems - it was 45 minutes late in picking us up. Second sign, once we got on the bus we were faced with guys that had their shirts off and girls that were fanning themselves. The temperature was topping out at a ridiculous 40C (100+F). Third sign, the driver drove away while a girl was frantically yelling at him that he left her friend behind.

As we were trying to figure out how the heck we were going to get comfortable and sleep in the heat the bus had pulled into a bus station outside of town, to wait for the girl they had left behind and "fix" the A/C. Well, this is when we realized that most of the people had decided to protest and demand a new bus. So, here we were sitting in a parking-lot littered with broken down and burnt out busses, learning new drinking games which included forcing down ultra cheap Mekong Whiskey with our new friends and the Thai's yelling at us that they will not bring in another bus. By Midnight (our bus was scheduled to leave at 7pm) the Thai Police arrived and discussed the situation with the "ring-leaders" and we were all hearded onto the SAME bus for Chiang Mai...so much for the protest.
The A/C fortunately did work all night long and we reached the out-skirts of the city mid-morning (weren't we supposed to be dropped of in the city-center?). The bus pulled off to the side of the road and informed us that we had to take another "Private Service Transport" into town (and stay at their guesthouse or pay the transport fee). Complete crap! The combo of tired/hung-over passengers and pissed-off drivers turned into a yelling match and then a full on fist-fight broke out on the side of the road. Believe it or not, someone was even weilding a hammer.   We looked at each other and decided we didn't want to be in the same guesthouse as these travelers and we didn't want to be around the hostility!!! We grabbed our packs and began the 10km walk into town. Luckily, a few kilometers later a nice Thai man gave us a lift into the city center.

Phew! We made it and explored Chiang Mai for a few days. It's known as the Temple City of the North because there are hundreds of Buddhist temples scattered around.   There are countless monks willing to talk with you and answer questions about their life, the city and Buddhism which allows them to practice their English at the same time. On the other hand, it's got a bustling night life. Along with the traditional Thai women trying to lure you into their bars as well as give you 'special massage' there are tons of Lady Boys looking for some of the action. As you can see, you can get the Thai culture in by day and get the wildness in at night.

Hmmmmmm, once again it was time to hit the road. After looking at different options to explore the North West region, of Thailand, we decided the best way would be on our own! We hired "The Firecracker", a small 110 cc motobike to get us from towns to villages to towns. We stored our packs, brought a small bag, strapped on some helmets and hit the open road. We headed NW toward the town of Pai, a brilliant place located in a lush valley along a fast flowing river. The trek there was tough for our little bike as it obediently tried to tackle some of the massive hills. We had to be a funny site to see - the only two people on the road with helmets slowly making our way up the mountain at 5km/hr. It looked just like the scene from "Dumb and Dumber". Once we arrived we realized it was well worth the time and effort. The peaceful setting was what we needed after noisy Chiang Mai. We stayed at a very small place that was run by the most adorable family. They provided us with a little hut on the river at 70 Baht (US $1.55) a night.

It was wonderful to wake up late the next morning to birds chirping and the sound of a running river. We spent the day exploring the surrounding sights and the afternoon "teaching" at the school for Burmese Refuge children. Our goal was to teach them the difference between left and right. We decided a fun way to do this would be to sing the 'Hokey Pokey'. I think they had more fun just dancing around than actually "getting it". Regardless, it was a great time for everyone!!! That evening Summer told 'Mom' that she wanted to learn how to make true Thai Vegetable Curry so the two of them were busy in the kitchen for a couple of hours preparing a scrumptious meal.

On the road again...after another full day up and down the mountains we came to Mae Hong Son, one of the largest towns in the Northwest and only a stones throw from Burma. We explored the surrounding area and visited some of the spectacular hill tribes in their villages. We spent some time with the "Long Necks". They are a sub-tribe of the Karen group and the women are known to wear the gold rings around their necks which gives the appearance of having an elongated neck. Fascinating and beautiful and so very different! We decided to walk past their village and about an hour down the path stumbled upon a Burmese Refuge Camp. So very interesting. These people fled their land due to a terrible regime that is responsible for massive oppression and countless deaths of their people. Many have fled to these camps in Thailand where they remain as virtual prisoners, having to wait their time until the situation at home changes or some solution in Thailand presents itself. They were just as curious about us as we were about them.

After a couple of days in this area, we climbed aboard the bike and headed for the highlands. We went through several small villages that are still trying to adapt to modern life. Not too long ago these people primarily lived on the cultivation of the poppy plants (selling of opium) but with the Thai police cracking down, they are trying to find new ways to make money. We made every effort to communicate with them and respect their simple lives. We ate their food and found that laughter and smiles were the best form of communication.

The going was tough for "The Firecracker". The little bike was made for paved city streets, not for the torment we put her through on the dirt roads, shallow streams we crossed and steep hills we climbed. Fortunately, she made it through. One week later we made it back to Chiang Mai with 815km added to the odometer and only one exhaust burn (day one - Summer burned her leg getting off the bike - all we had was a pink bandana to wrap the wound but it conviently matched her hot pink helmet).

What a trip, we had a chance to see some of the quieter parts of Thailand and visit some places off of the "backpacker route". There were so many different shades of green, breathtaking waterfalls and beautiful, welcoming people. It was a chance of a lifetime to drive through these places, stop when/where we wanted and meet different people along the route.

Our Next Adventure: From The Mekong To Madness in Vietnam