A
Journey Through Belle France
A
Journey Through Belle France
Day 2 - Old Nice, The Roman Cathedral,
The Matisse Museum & Eze
Today we started out with a wonderful breakfast of tea and croissants in the breakfast room. While eating, we were all surprised again when Rick walked through the door to have his breakfast. Not only was he in Nice, but he was staying in our hotel.
Though I suppose it should have occurred to us that he was staying at the same hotel, he personally recommends it. Well, we all waited calmly (like
kids waiting for their presents on Christmas morning) until Rick had finished his breakfast and then we ambushed him for photos and autographs. It was Steve's idea, really. I guess we're just shameless, but in a fun, harmless sort of way. Rick was very gracious about it though and took the whole thing in stride. Thanks Rick! Besides, Steve, Linda, and I were not the only rambunctious ones in the group. As we headed into the lobby to meet up with Sabine, I saw Rick surrounded by the other members of the tour group getting his picture taken with everyone. Some people admire sports heroes, others admire celebrities, I guess we all worship at the shine of the European travel guide.
Old Nice
Linda and Rick - Linda finally meets the euro-man, the euro-myth, the euro-legend.
My autographed copy of Rick's tour book.
Nice
Our first stop on the tour today was Old Nice. As we began our walk we all had visions of beautiful old buildings, art, and flower boxes in our heads. However, the first thing we came across was a McDonalds. I swear, that clown in the yellow suit is better at infiltrating foreign countries than the CIA. As we tried to shake the image of the golden arches from our minds we continued to the Place Massena, crossing over the Paillon River. The river is actually covered in this area of the city. Sabine told us that historically Nice only occupied the area between the river and the Mediterranean. Then, in the 1800s, the river was covered and
unfolding in front of our eyes. Laundry was hanging out to dry, people were shopping at the market or sitting around little tables at the cafes talking and laughing, and others were simply daydreaming and taking it all in. Strolling these quiet streets you feel like your in another world and you can almost glimpse what life was like hundreds of years ago.
the booksellers wares. However, once the vendor
realized that I was part of the tour group, he chastised me for not paying
attention and told me to go back to school. Needless to say, I was not
allowed to purchase any books from him. 
From the market we headed up into the small, narrow pedestrian streets of the city where everyday life was
The tour group walking up a pedestrian street on our way to Place Rossetti.
Sabine showing us a map of Old Nice.
the city was expanded so that they could cater to people like us. From Place Massena we passed the Nice Opera House on our way to Cours Saleya, which is a large outdoor market. You can't miss it, just look for a large collage of very colorfully striped red, yellow, green, and blue canopies. As we passed through the market, I was overwhelmed by the variety of smells, colors, and trinkets.
McDonald's...yuk!
As an avid bibliophile and collector of antique books, I became fascinated with one particular vendor's cart. To tell the truth, I actually stopped listening to
Sabine for a
few minutes
while I
perused
the 
Everyday life in Old Nice
Sign on the side of a building.
Cathedral St. Reparate
As we entered the Place Rossetti, we saw the Cathedral of St. Reparate. The cathedral was a Benedictine abbey until around 1590 when it was relocated to its current location and converted into a cathedral. The cathedral was rebuilt in the 17th Century to its current design and has the added bonus of being just across the square from Fenocchio's Glacier. Arguably, the best
ice cream in Nice.
Upon completion of our walking tour, we were given time to
shop in the market before heading to the Russian Cathedral. I, of
course, scoured the stalls looking for books, and was not disappointed.
No matter how single-minded you happen to be, however, you cannot help but
take in all the external stimulants around you. So many colors, smells,
and textures, your not sure what direction to go in or where to start. The smells in particular are amazing, from soap to flowers,
your olfactory senses are simply overwhelmed with the scent of lavender,
jasmine, roses, orange, vanilla, spices, and so much more. 
Cours Saleya Market:
A balloon vendor, a flower vendor, and a soap vendor.
Russian Cathedral
Upon leaving Old Nice, we hopped on the bus and went to the Russian Cathedral. The Russian Cathedral is a beautiful orthodox church built in Nice in the 19th Century by a group of wealthy Russian families who needed some place to pray. I guess the Russians don't mess around when it comes to
Sunday services. Standing in front of the church you feel like your in St. Petersburg instead of the south of France. Vodka anyone? Nevertheless, the church and the ground are very beautiful (lots of roses) as can be see by the postcards to the left (photography is off limits inside the church). Also impressive is the fact that Czar Nicholas I's window donated the land the church sits on and had to tear down her house for the church to be built.
Matisse Museum
I love art, but have never been a big fan of Matisse, so when we were told we were visiting the Matisse Museum, I was curious but not overly excited. The building itself is a 17th Century villa located in an olive grove, near a Franciscan monastery. The building is beautiful and surprising light and open inside. The museum has an eclectic mix of Matisse's art, sketches, and personal items on display.
As I said, I have never been a big fan of Matisse, but all I knew of him was his later work. The big undefined shapes of color that seem to float on
The Matisse Museum
Fleurs et fruits, 1953
La Cour du moulin a Ajaccio, 1898
Village de Bretagne, 1896
the canvas. In the museum I discovered his early artwork, which was a more traditional style, as seen in the paintings below. I was astonished at the talent of this artist who I had previously overlooked. We learned that Matisse was an attorney, but began painting while recovering from an extended illness. Once he was well, he went to Paris to study art. That's fine by me, loosing a lawyer to gain an artist is a great bargain. In the later years of his life he was no longer able to paint, but began making paper cut-outs that were decoupaged onto water colored surfaces such as "Fleurs et Fruits below.
After the museum, the group headed back to the monastery through the olive grove, which seems to be a popular place for the locals to picnic. There were people everywhere lounging under trees sipping wine while their kids ran through the grove. As I noted yesterday, these people really know how to enjoy their lunch hour.
Directly adjacent to the monastery is a public garden full to bursting with flowers where we stopped for a group picnic. More wine, of course, and all kinds of yummy cheeses and sandwiches. We had an added guest as well, a local dog that thought we would be a soft touch and feed him. Well, he was right of course, so we all had our fill of fabulous Franciscan snacks this afternoon.
On the other side of
the Monastery is a cemetery (no cameras allowed), which Linda and I walked
through after lunch. Matisse is actually buried here, within a stones
throw of his artwork, which I think is very fitting for a man that lived for
his art. An art and artist I now have a new appreciation for. 
The group relaxing under a pergola in the garden, enjoying great food and new friends.
Linda in the garden.
Bridge to Eze.
Spices for sale at the town gate.
That's me, in the garden.
The Town of Eze
Sitting atop the
Riviera is a little 14th Century town called Eze. To get to the town,
you have to drive over a bridge that is almost as impressive as the town
itself. Then you have to park in a parking lot below the town and walk
up through a gate that, I am told, was installed to keep the Turks out.
I guess the Turks were a bit to rowdy for this sleepy little hill
town. At the gate we saw a vendor 
selling
spices. He had large round bowls covering the table and they were full
to the brim with all sorts of spices. I have never seen spices sold
this way before and I just wanted to grab a couple handfuls and bury my nose
in them. Even if you didn't go near the table, you could not escape
the aroma of spices wafting through the air. 
Walking up the narrow little streets you are bombarded with gift shops, clothing stores, and postcard racks. Its very touristy, but beautiful all the same.
The group bypassed the stores and headed straight up to the Jardin Exotique (Exotic Garden) at the
very top of the town. Now, when I was told there was a garden at the top of the town, I though that sounded very reasonable. When I found out it was a cactus garden I was perplexed to say the least. I spent a good part of my childhood in
Arizona, so I am intimately
familiar with this species of plant (especially after falling on one when I
was 6 years old). Nice does not seem like an ideal climate for cacti of
any type, so I just had to see this for myself. Sure enough, when we got
to the garden, there was nothing but cacti and rocks. Go figure!
At least I didn't fall on any of these cacti and the view from the top of the
hill was well worth the climb. 
From left to right:
(1) Steve, Pam, Susan, and Elizabeth coming up to join us on the top of the hill with the Riviera below.
(2) One of the many beautiful plants encountered in the garden.
(3) Linda and I in the Jardin Exotique.
Inside the town of Eze.
On the way back down to the bus, I have to admit that I caved and bought a few postcards of this beautiful town. I think everyone on the tour bought something in this rocky little town. After one more tantalizing whiff of the spices at the gate, we loaded up on the bus, did a quick buddy check, and headed back to Nice for a free night on the town.
The girls and I
decided to go back to the hotel and get cleaned up before heading out to
dinner, but not before stopping for ice cream. After all, it was a busy
day and we had to make sure we had enough energy to get back to the hotel
later that night. Once we were presentable, we 
headed to Lou Nissart, where we had
niçoises and all sorts of wonderful things. The waiters, however, were
teasing Laura about being a vegetarian. They seemed to think the whole
concept was very ridiculous
.
Nevertheless, they were very friendly 
Our waiters at Lou Nissart
Dinner wine
Elena, Linda, Laura, and I out for dinner.
(as you can see from the picture) and very attentive. After dinner, we just happened to pass Fenocchio's Glacier and decided to stop for a little after dinner snack. Hey, we were on vacation.
While we were soaking up the atmosphere and the ice cream of Place Rossetti, Laura realized that she left her umbrella at the restaurant. When we returned for it, the
gentlemen at the restaurant were holding it for her and told her that if she ate meat it would help her memory. I don't think she bought it. After one more goodbye to our wonderful waiters, we headed back to the hotel to pack up and rest for tomorrows adventure.