Medieval Ingredient Shopping in the Portland Area

by Lady Eulalia de Ravenfeld

Here's a list of some historical foods and ingredients for the modern medieval cook and where they can be found in the Portland metro area (or at least my favorite places to get these things). Enjoy. Please keep in mind that most of the historical research going into this was done on the internet, and as a result I cannot guarantee the accuracy of this. Please let me know if you find something incorrect on this page. I'll try to update this as I find more sources for things.

Fruit

Apples and Quince: Lady Apples are the oldest known cultivated apple variety, with some debate on how old the breed actually is. I've seen attributions ranging from the 16th century to the Roman Empire. They are small and green, and primarily used for decorative purposes today. Available during apple season (here in Oregon, this is fall through winter), I've found them for sale in Hood River direct from local farmers, and very occasionally at New Seasons. You might also try the other natural food mega stores, henceforth referred to collectively as NFMSes -- these are New Seasons, Whole Foods, and Wild Oats. Quince is a beautiful and very medieval fruit, believed to be the fruit of the tree of knowledge of good and evil in period. You can find them during fall and winter at fruit stands, very rarely the Beaverton Farmer's Market, direct from Hood River growers, and at NFMSes. I also have a secret place where I forage for them but I will not tell you where it is! I've also found quince paste (very medieval) at several grocery stores in town (QFC, NFMSes) if you are disinclined to make it yourself. It's often called "membrillo" and imported from Spain.

Citrus: Brought from California usually, the best varieties are available in the winter. Citrons (cultivated for at least 8000 years), except for the Buddha-hand variety which I think is modern, have become impossible to find in the past couple of years, but I once bought one at New Seasons. Seville sour oranges (the most similar variety to period oranges; available in North Africa from the 1st century on and in Spain and Portugal by the 13th century, oranges are mentioned in the 14th century Goodman of Paris) can be found at New Season's market (try the other NFMSes, too). Ironically, Key Limes with their new world name are period (10th century on for Muslim/North African cultures, 12th century on for Mediterranean cultures), while Persian limes are a modern variety with an old world name; they can be found in many stores, but Big City Produce (5128 N Albina) has the best price, with 20 limes for a dollar (!!!). Try also Winco and Uwajimaya. Kaffir limes have grown in east and southeast Asia for a very long time (not a European food, though!), and are available at gourmet, ethnic, and health food grocers (I get them at New Seasons).

Vegetables

I've found purple carrots (supposed to be more period than orange ones) at several health food stores locally.

The Beaverton Farmer's Market has zillions of vegetables, some rather esoteric.

Trader Joe's is my favorite place to get "convenience greens" like bagged salad mixes and pre-chopped chard for greens tarts.

Grains

Kamut was cultivated widely in Ancient Egypt, and may have continued to be cultivated by peasant farmers in Egypt and Asia Minor. Spelt was widely used by the Romans and grown throughout Europe (Hildegard von Bingen reccommends it as a panacea) -- more period than modern hybridized wheat, particularly for early personas. Other grains used in Europe in period include oats, rye and barley. Flours from all these are available from Bob's Red Mill; their products are in many health food stores or in health food sections of most grocery stores, or you can visit their store at 5209 SE International Way • Milwaukie, OR 97222 (every time I've been there, I've seen Bob!). Bob's Red Mill also makes Scottish Oatmeal, real, stone-ground oats, super authentic!

Nuts

Pinenuts can be had for super cheap at Costco, $10.99 for I think 24 ounces. If you only need a small amount, some health food stores carry them in bulk, and Trader Joes has small bags of them for a reasonable price.

Almond meal is sold by Bob's Red Mill. It's very fine, and ideal for making almond milk. Yes, it's a little pricey, but I'm lazy and don't like grinding my own almonds. You can also buy blanched slivered almonds in bulk at your favorite NFMS, or in small bags at Trader Joe's, and grind them yourself. TJ's also has almond meal from unblanched almonds.

Mushrooms

Lots of wild mushrooms grow in the Northwest that are close to those found in Europe. Try specialty stores or learn to forage.

Dairy and Eggs

Trader Joe's has some very fancy butter imported from England (Devon double cream butter), which in my limited knowledge strikes me as closer to period butter as it is produced in traditional ways in small batches.

I would really like to learn more about medieval cheese. I have made one discovery though, which is that Winco sells real farmers cheese. This is a soft cheese, similar to but distinct from ricotta, that is called for in a lot of period recipes. This is distinct from the semi-soft cheese that's faintly cheddarish often called farmers cheese. For other cheese varieties, if you want to spend a lot of money, ask the nice person at the cheese counter at your local NFMS about the history of various cheeses, and you may be able to find something surprisingly authentic. If you just want something a little bit better than "ye olde orange brick" I recommend Trader Joe's or, if you're shopping for a group, Costco.

Although I can't prove that medieval people ate them, I was pretty excited to find pheasant eggs at the Beaverton Farmer's Market. (I've also discovered that these are my new favorite kind of eggs. They are so cute! Also tasty!) The same booth also has honey and quills!

Beans

Fresh fava beans are available in the summer from several merchants at the Beaverton Farmers Market. The dried variety are available in bulk at many stores (Wild Oats, New Seasons, Fred Meyer) or you can get them with the tough skin pre-removed from Bob's Red Mill. Other medieval beans/legumes: lentils, garbanzo beans, and possibly white beans.

Spices

Rule number one: do not buy spices in those little jars from the grocery store. In general: check at Wild Oats / Whole Foods / New Seasons in the bulk herbs section. They should have most of the basics. Limbo market in SE Portland and Bob's Red Mill both carry Oregon Spice Company spices; between the two you should be able to find the slightly more esoteric spices that you need, like galingale, cubeb, and grains of paradise. Penzey's (they are a spice retailer) has recently opened a store on SE 82nd avenue.

Another option is to buy pre-blended spice powders from Mestra Rafaella d'Allemtejo (she's not paying me to mention this, I just really like her spice blends).

For fancy salt, some health food stores have Celtic Sea Salt / sel gris in bulk. Really upscale stores also carry fleur de sel. Trader Joe's has a nice fine-grained sea salt which I use for all of my cooking needs. Avoid regular (especially iodized) table salt for period cooking.

I culled sources and prices for Saffron from a recent discussion on the DMcooks list:

Wizer's Market up in Lake Grove used to have (and probably still does but it's been years since I've been there) a couple of different saffron options. A little plastic box of .375gm for around $4 and a little square jar for around $7 (unknown quantity) -- Rafaella

Saffron by the ounce: http://www.store.yahoo.com/prg/gourmet-foods.html --also Rafaella

I got quite a substantial box of saffron from India Direct (just off the south side of Hwy 26 at Bethany) for like $6. --Hrafnir

Bob's Red Mill in Milwaukie has saffron, 1 gram for $4.15 --Havoise

There is a little European market on Hawthorne at about 18th & they have small amounts of saffron for just a few dollars. --Tangwystyl

Also, Trader Joe's has small jars of saffron. I can't remember the price or amount off hand, but both seemed pretty reasonable. (me again)

Mestra Rafaella has done a good calculation of the math of saffron, with the take-home lesson being if you're going to be using a lot of it you really need to buy it by the ounce. Sure, it's a lot of money all at once, but it ends up being something like a dollar a gram.

Meats and Related Things

Gartner's Meat Market in NE Portland is like a wonderland of meat. If you want a specialty cut, they will probably have it. They are however reputed to have a wait time of hours in the summer. You might also try the meat counter at your favorite NFMS -- they have a fairly broad selection, and often what they don't have (like organ meats and real lard) can be specially ordered.

More coming soon, like where to get exciting fishes.

Other Ingredients

For more authentic vinegar, avoid distilled white. My favorite cider vinegar is Bragg's brand, which they have at NFMSes. It has the "mother" in the bottle and has a really great flavor. Trader Joe's is a good source of balsamic vinegar, and you can get red wine vinegar just about anywhere.

Verjuice (sour grape juice) can be found at Hallal / Middle Eastern markets. These are also a good source of spices and exciting cheeses.

©Laurel Black

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