Note the sliding pin #8. It holds the canopy rails on. It is very simple to remove the canopy and rails. Getting it back on is another matter. With the two barber pole release handles it is easy. If you have the single center console release you must remove the square inspection plates #1 and then use a lever to push the control rods rearward. Once fully engaged you can see the sliding pin at the rear of the locking block.

Once the canopy and rails are removed from the plane simply slide the rail and rollers rearward. You can eventually work the rollers off of the frame.

The 2cm steel tube for the canopy frame must roll between these two rollers. If they get grime in them they will freeze up and then the frame must slide over the rollers. This will make the canopy difficult to open and shut. The roller support must be removed so you can clean the rollers. Use a 7/32 socket to remove the self-locking nuts. Now you can use a 5/16 socket to remove the roller nuts. The plastic rollers have a central steel sleeve, which should be cleaned out and do not use grease for a lubricant. Just use graphite.

Note the locking tab on the bottom of the rail. This is steel and strong enough to hold the canopy in place.

This is at the rear of the left canopy rail. The bottom roller is difficult to see until you remove the frame. To remove the bottom roller you must remove the support block so you can get a screwdriver into the slot.

#1 is the block that holds the locking pin. It is too far forward.
#2 is the locking pin. It is not in very far. The block will come rearward when you use a lever to force the control rod rearward. Tab #5 is part of the canopy rail.
#3 is where you should see the protruding tip of the locking pin.
#4 is the canopy control rod. The block is held in place with a through bolt so its position is fixed relative to the other locking pin blocks.
The above picture is made with no mirrors. Even with the dental mirror I could not see the pin this clearly. I worked for two hours to remove all of the inspection plates, change the rusty screws to stainless steel and inspect the locking pins to be positive that each had come through into position #3. The rear inspection holes gives the best view of the protruding locking pin. Space #6 will get smaller as the locking pin block moves to the left or rearward. When you pull the canopy rail forward, an easy task, space #2 will shift behind tab #5.

Here the handle is out enough to release the canopy. If you get a chance to buy a plane with this modification you are indeed lucky. I plan to hardwire the handle in place so some child does not jettison the canopy by mistake.

To those who fear that they cannot get the canopy open to jump out, [That is you DR. Bill Vitale], remember, there have been 5 documented accidental canopy losses and replacement costs $50,000. If you are not wearing a parachute you do not want to jettison the canopy.

When reinstalling the canopy you can look at the inspection port and tell if the control rod is far enough back to enenge the locking pins.

Return to the SF260 Home page

Hosted by www.Geocities.ws