� 2002 Will
The Details: Mike Law's Sydney Guide gives very little description of most of the climbs, and that's probably because you'd get sick of reading "up on chipped holds". Yes that's right, the climbs here have been predominantly chipped, but it doesn't detract too much - they're still good solid climbs!
Access: 20 second walk. Park on Alexandria Parade and wander down. Also accessible by public transport - bus to Coogee, then walk 10mins south along the waterfront until you can see it - it's the only decent sheet of vertical blank stone. The big bolt (dodgy) and the big block are good landmarks. There is a slimy descent 100m N, but it's easier just to rap in. The first 3 routes aren't in the guide.
Described R to L, facing the cliff.
* Unnamed "1" 13m 23 (TR)
The N most climb here, and probably the steepest too. Wander along the top until you see the last set of bolts, on a ledge about 2ft lower. Jump for jugs, then traverse R a little to get L hand up to obvious chipped hold. Steeply up through flake and chipped holds in break, past another flake and into obvious sidepulls. Mantle, and exit up L. If you want to lead it, the bolts look ok, but I'd stick clip the first. Actually pretty nice for a chipped climb - I'd do it again for sure.
Unnamed "2" 10m 19 (YP)
To find this one, head N from Head Hi Takl, until you see 2 nice galvanised bolts under the small bush close to the edge. First moves are OK, then tricky mantle past 1st bolt, and reachy up to two chipped finger pockets, next to 2nd bolt. Crank to the top. Nice enough, but the bolts are pretty dodgy.
Unnamed "3" 9m 21 (YP)
Between U2 and HHT, distinguishable by an obvious chipped hold on top for the top out. Three terrible bolts, but its ok to toprope. Balancy off the ground, R hand up to break. L hand up to pocket, and R hand to sidepull. (crux) Either shuffle L foot onto break and sidepull up to good hold, or simply get a foot up high, and L hand crank to get R hand up. Tiptoe to small L hand, then to chipped hold over the top.
Head-hi Takl 12m 23 (TR)
3m R of FMD. Step off gearbox and into similar mantle move as on FMD. Big undercling up to OK break. Hard move up to small sloper, shift feet, then L onto bigger hold, then into big break under small roof. Slopey top out. 2 BBs, but run out to lead.
F--- My Dog 12m 21 (YP)
7m R of GARUY. Tricky mantle move to begin (hint: left heel hook up on little nubbin at same height as hands, then L hand up to sloper). Then another balancy mantle, then nice moves to top. Two crap BBs.
** Get a Rat Up Ya 12m 23 (L)
Directly below the big bolt. Probably the safest lead here - 5 BBs. Easily up to small roof, lean out to clip BB, then use tiny crimper undercling/smear to walk feet up under lip, then reach up for R hand jug. Pinch grip the undercling to heft feet over lip, then undercling up to horizontal break. Throw a R foot up to weird mantle to gain next R hand jug, then layback up to L hand positive crimp. Up to horizontal break, then L, big reach for top. Don't settle for half knuckle sloper at top, there's a jug 2" behind it!
* Gash Rash 14m 21 (TR)
Charming names, eh? Traverse from 2m R of manky bolt in choss zone (ie start as for GARUY) to 2m L of it, to a nice rest pocket under lip. Small holds over lip onto face, not much feet. Cool moves up to sidepull, then reeeach to break, L and off. Five dodgy BB, especially the first.
For a complete description of all Sydney crags and bouldering sites, go to the Sydney Rockclimbing Club's on-line Sydney Guide.
� 2002 Will