� 2002 Will
The Details: This is about as big as cliffs in Sydney get, so if you're in pursuit of some exposure, this is the place for you! Climbing is banned here though so on your own head be it!
Access: Access is good because it's a popular lookout for tourists, with views of the harbour and the city as well as the cliffs stretching from Bondi to South Head. To get here, either drive, or get a ferry to Manly and cycle up the hill for about 10 minutes. You can tell you're almost there once the views become visible. Find the main lookout, and the lower lookout on the left of this is where to suss everything out from. The Fear tops out right in front of this, where the single BB about a foot from the edge is. If you jump the fence to have a look, you can see the last 6m up the thin crack you'll do after popping out from the roof systems. The door handles down and R are used for aid on Big Craziness (23). This is a good spot to untwist your rope, as its overhanging, and about 60m to the bottom. Also, spit balls take 8.81s (scientifically established fact!) to reach the bottom.
������From the lookout, looking 50m E you can see the (grim!) descent. It heads down the line of bolts and ladders below the crack at the top. While it has plenty of chipped holds, along with some brand new chains at some of the more worrying points, it is certainly a scary proposition, bloody exposed, and has no room for error. We did it after a few weeks of rain when it was practically a waterfall, so it may be better when its dry! Anyway, as a result I recommend taking a rap rope and aim to land on the ledges somewhere between the ladders and The Fear. You still have to do the nasty step across, but at least you avoid a very scary 30m downclimb.
������To get to The Fear et al, head W around the ledge towards the roofs, carefully across the nasty bit, and about 4m further is The Fear. The first bolts are too large for bolt plates, and need to be wired. Unless noted, all bolts are old, rusty, and pretty dodgy! A whistle or at least predetermined 'rope tug' signals are essential, as yelling isn't possible thanks to the roofs and the waves crashing below. Prussiks or jumars are also a must for both leader and 2nd.
Described L to R, facing the cliff.
*** The Fear 47m 17 (OS)
Amazingly exposed, starts 15m up, and heads out through the most overhung territory possible. Excellent.
������(1) 25m 17 Easily to first ledge at 2m, then step R and wire the lower of the three bolts. Up the multi-colour streak, and hand traverse R to instant exposure above nasty step across. Wire another bolt (maybe extend this and back clean previous one to reduce drag), strenuously mantle, then belly crawl L to bottom of V corner, and clip bolt. Tricky moves both to gain corner, and to move up corner then crack to break, past bolts and cam placements (#0.5 - #1). Clip horrid bolt at break (extend if possible), and easily traverse L 5m to belay ledge. 1 good BB + 2 old ones.
������(2) 22m 17 With heels over the void, lean out to clip nice shiny BB. Reach up to holds in break, and heave feet up (don't kick your belayer!). Good hold in next small roof, then less steeply (but still more than vertical) jug haul up past another BB to BB under roof. Traverse L out over the void along short wall below roof, using jugs in roof. Don't look down until you have reached around lip to sidepull, and placed a cam in crack above roof (#0.5). Then enjoy the view!! The last 6m is actually quite pumpy, with some reachy moves up the crack, but good cams all the way (#1-#3). Finish up with a tricky overhung mantle, then smile for the astonished tourists just over the fence. Belay off the fence and the single BB. Bloody great.
To see what it looks like, have a look at my photos .
For a complete description of all Sydney crags and bouldering sites, go to the Sydney Rockclimbing Club's on-line Sydney Guide.
� 2002 Will