> Will's Climbing Page > Crags > Sydney > Middle Cove

Middle Cove

The Word: Small, but convenient.
Sun/shade: Late afternoon sun only.
Wet weather options: None.
Style of Climbs: Vertical and slightly overhung sport and mixed routes.
Grades: 11-26
Best Route(s): Unnameable Arete (** 21)

The Details: Not a very extensive crag, but worth a visit or two.

Access: Find Harold Reid Reserve on a map; it's off Rembrandt Drive. A one way road loops around the peninsula, and the crag is 2 thirds of the way around. The gates are shut overnight (usually from 5.30pm), so don't get locked in!

Routes described from the road, ie R to L.

Ept 8m 11 (Solo)
Up on to bollard 8m R of crack, up walls.

* Enemy of Love 10m 18 (OS)
A few fine moves. Up slab 3m L of crack (2 BRs), diagonally R to BR on lip and up.

Doggie's Dinner 10m 21 (TR)
Wall 2m L of EL. Two BRs.

* Z 10m 18 (YP)
A wee bit delicate. The twin cracks on the L end of the wall.

** Unnameable Arete 9m 21 (YP)
Pump it up. Up ramp to R and arete. 3 BRs and a possible sling. The site of my first lead fall! As a result, I think this is a great climb!
To see a photo , click here.

� 2000 Will