� 2000 Will
Hope Buttress
This is the first cliff you see as you approach the gorge. The buttress is split by two sharp clean cracks ('Hope' and 'Charity'). Climbs described from R to L.
* Charity 20m 14 (Solo OS)
Start: At water level, below the face crack.
Scramble up to the ledge, then a hard move to get into the crack, then easier jamming to top. 2 BB at top.
To see a photo, click here.
** Hope 25m 16 (YP)
Start: At the vertical crack below the corner.
A tricky jam crack up to ledge, then an easy corner.
To see a photo, click here.
Savage Amusement Buttress
Downstream from Hope Buttress is a higher, overhanging cliff. Savage Amusement heads up through the dog-leg shaped flake.
To see a photo, click here.
** Inertia 10m 22
Start: The roof about 15m down L of Savage Amusement.
Exciting climbing on big holds. Up crack to roof, then move out L via the crack in the roof, and up the wall (crux) to belay ledge. Walk off. I had a fair lash at it, but just got too pumped to gain the exit finger crack.
To see a photo, click here.
Postscript: The roof flake/block has now fallen off and the route is most likely impossible.
* Psychosomatic 15m 23 (TR)
Further downstream - short steep wall opposite a casuarina tree. The thin crack system. Technical and sustained, longer than it looks. Follow intermittent thin cracks to wider crack above. Then straight up slab to a good belay ledge and chains.
Illusion Buttress
Approx 10m downstream from Psychosomatic. A concentrated crag situated near the junction of the main water course and the side stream that runs past Savage Amusement. The climbs are described from R to L.
* Heavy Metal 18m 19 (OS)
Start: A wall/arete route protected by bolts.
The first route to use protection bolts at this crag. 4 BR, Friends and chain for belay. Rap off.
To see a photo, click here.
* Illusion 20m 13 (RP)
Start: The corner crack 1m L of ASIG. Very popular.
Scramble up onto the ledge then jam to the top. Rap off chains. To see a photo, click here.
** Layabout/Going Steady Link-up 18 (YP)
Bloody classic mate. Start up Layabout, do the beautiful moves over the roof and up the wonderful crack, then a challenging rising traverse (good gear) to the arete. Brilliant moves up the arete to the bolt, then more great moves to the top. Great all the way, and good pro, but watch the big surface flake high on the arete.
* Layabout 25m 17 (OS)
Start: The crack 1m L of GS. Up blocks to nice thin crack, to squeeze chimney above. Rap chains just R.
To see a photo, click here.
� 2000 Will