> Will's Climbing Page > Crags > Sydney > Engadine

Engadine

Heathcote/Bluebell

The Word: A great micro sport crag.
Sun/shade: Afternoon sun.
Wet weather options: All routes are overhung, but probably seep.
Style of Climbs: 8-12m dynamic overhung sport routes.
Grades: 15-25
Best Route(s): Ruthless Babe (*** 22)

The Details: A funky little overhanging sport wall. The climbs in the teens are tough for the grade, and those in the 20's are ok or a bit soft. Good til about midday on hot days, but can still be greasy, and the occasional hold gets a bit of dirt. Probably a good winter afternoon crag. The climbs at the R end are nice warm ups for the better steep ones.

Access: Drive to the end of Bluebell Rd, Heathcote. Walk down the firetrail on the R, round L behind the houses, and its about 50m on the R. Rap off tree or descend down ladders further L.

*** Ruthless Babe 12m 22 (L)
Yeah, excellent. Looks like a hold has broken off the crux, but it's still 22. A strenuous first clip leads to easier jug hauling up to roof. There's a good hands free rest here - oppose R foot and L shoulder in scoop. Clip 3rd FH, then crux out roof using small R hand below FH, L hand gaston crimp, and then crossover up to obvious jug beside FH. Clip here or on next hold, then to big sidepull in break. Hoick feet up, then a big move that is powerful, but not too hard, up to obvious jug beside final FH. Up and into final jugs, and an airy top out to chain - maybe extend it over the edge with slings before you start. The pick of the climbs here I'd say.

** Bitch'n 12m 23
Didn't get up it myself, but I reckon its definitely not easier than 23! I can't say it was that nice up to the roof though.

** Welcome to the Body Shop 10m 21 (OS)
Well, a beta flash actually, but hey! Well bolted. No real hard moves on it, but quite pumpy. A crimp about half way and a sidepull at the top are probably the hardest bits, but it's a soft 21. Still good fun though.

Meltdown 10m 19 (L)
A very poor 3rd bolt protects the crux - a sidepull move a la WTTBS. The first bolt is a bit airy to get to.

Sparky 10m 16 (YP)
Flake, clip BB on R then up L past 2 FH. A good warm up.

Screaming Cockatoos 10m 18 (TR)
Take a #2 camalot to protect crux below 3rd BB. Top out just L of final bolt - above the R hand jug is all slopey.

Al's Nightmare 8m 22
Haven't done it. Easily to 3rd bolt (don't forget to clip the 1st 2, hmmmm?), then a hard move to ok final hold.

The Wastelands

Totally unimpressive. Ignore any stars given to climbs at the Vertex or The Grandstand - they're all crud. In fact, don't even bother climbing at this end of the crag. Maybe the walls at the N end are better, but if not, give this place a miss altogether. Park at end of Ferntree St Engadine, walk across netball courts, and down wide path 20m R of pylon, past small walls to firetrail. These climbs are then about 200m L.

Asking for Action 8m 16 (OS)
2 stars?? No way! Solo up charming loose dirt and tree roots, then clip the 1st BB after doing the crux. On to top. Ho hum.

Ocean of Wind 15m 18 (OS)
3 stars?? I mean, who are we trying to kid here? This climb is crap! Overbolted, and more like 16, unless you do the totally contrived bouldery start. Pity about the mangled iron to land on though. Slopey top out (yuck) is about all that's worth mentioning.

For a complete description of all Sydney crags, go to the Sydney Rockclimbing Club's on-line Sydney Guide.

� 2001 Will