� 2002 Will
The Details: Yes! Sydney�s best area adds another one to the list! The most impressive line of cliffs in the area - which makes me wonder why it hasn't been more developed or included in guides. Although it does have its fair share of choss and slime. About 14-18m high, and overhung by up to 8m in spots. Looks like it was developed at least 5 years ago, cause the fixed gear on projects is pretty encrusted and dodgy. Also take care with the bolts - there�s a loose ring rattling round the bottom, and since then there has been a helicopter evacuation after a groundfall from the roof at the top after another ring ripped!! Some rings are going the way of the cars down in the creek - rustbuckets!
Access: To get there, park in Amaroo Rd Elanora Heights. From halfway down the road and looking out over the valley, the descent is about 40m L and 40m straight ahead. It�s some fixed slings on a medium sized redgum, just below the top of the cliff. Walk around R (NW) and down more slings. 2 crap looking routes are just here. Continue 150m further along the cliff, til you reach a really simple looking corner (has been soloed as an exit route, has a bold final move - approx grade 10 in boots). Down and around the corner to the crag. Take some gear you can leave for lowering off, and choose your route carefully, cause some of the lower offs look shite.
* A 14m 23 (YP)
Not a bad sequence - quite sustained for the second half. Start at the R hand line of rings, just L of the seam in the biggest part of the first roof. A few sweet moves up to the break under the roof - pity about the mud in some holds. Finger lock traverse L to clip RB in scoop, then from holds in bottom of scoop, lunge up to ok hold on R, then a sloper hand traverse, heel hook beside hands on R, and (crux) lunge to sidepull ridge. RB then up ridge, pumpy traverse L on thin fin past 2 hidden FHs, to a big move to big undercling, then a cool crank past the anchor to smallish holds in the roof flake. I reckon this route could even top out - there�s about 3m more roof you could go out on the flake! As it is it�s about 5m overhung.
For a complete description of all Sydney crags and bouldering sites, go to the Sydney Rockclimbing Club's on-line Sydney Guide.
� 2002 Will