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Ebor Gorge

If this crag were 10m higher, it would be the next Frog. The unique hexagonal nature of the vertical basalt blocks results in a crack climb next to an arete/face climb every metre or so. The density of climbs is unparalleled at any other crag I've been to. The gradings are quite stiff here, but most starred climbs are in the high teens, with plenty for beginners too. This crag has few climbs in the low 20s and none above 24.

That being said, the hardest 16, 17 and 18 I have ever done were here, so I'd recommend getting a feel for the grades before really pushing yourself. There are 10 separate crags all within about 200m of the carparks, comprising 162 routes (as of 1987). If you plan on climbing here, be aware that on top of the usual risks associated with climbing, snakes and spiders and other greeblies are common (we saw two 1.5m red belly blacks mating about 25 metres from picnic tables!), and it's a long way to any medical facilities - its real wilderness climbing. Play it safe, bring a first aid kit.

To get there from Armidale, head towards Dorrigo/Ebor, and turn L about 200m before entering Ebor (approx 80km out of Armidale). The crags start directly below the Upper Falls lookout (1st Breakaway), and progress downstream. Breakaways 1 and 2 are accessed from the first carpark, and breakaways 3, 4, 5 and 6 from the 2nd.

1st Breakaway

Descend about 40m L of the lookout, and head back under the cliffs. "The Removalist" is about 5m R of the lookout (facing the cliff). Alternatively, rap off one of the big trees around the place - easier if you're here for more than one climb. Climbs described from L to R.

* The Removalist 15m 15 (YP)
Start 5m L of C. Hand jam crack trending R to small ledge. Across bulge into crack that takes you to the top. Don't mistake the wedged hex and sling for a snake on the way up!

* Caballero 10m 16 (YP)
Start just L of small roof, about 10m R of the lookout. Finger crack leads to offwidth in corner. Quite continuous.

** The Joker 12m 17 (OS)
Start: 2m L of "Milkshake". Marked. Up handjam crack in corner, with only awkward rests. The hardest 17 I've done. A good tester for handjamming skill and endurance. Belay from tree well back from edge, and various cams near edge.

* Seizure 14m 15 (L)
Absolutely perfect jamming up a great looking crack. Worth two stars after a good clean. Some great wires to start, then continuous jamming up the corner, swinging R (NOT left!) off the tree roots at the top to an awkward mantle. Take #7-9 hexes and #2-3 friends.

2nd Breakaway

From lookout, head along gorge rim for approx 120m, until next cliffs are seen. Good rap tree in centre of crag (between "Snakes and Ladders" and "Fear and Loathing"), or descend at upstream end.

* Snakes and Ladders 15m 13 (YP)
Start: 1m R of Mischief. Up twin cracks to top - friends.

* Modern Electrics 15m 17 (OS)
Pretty good, but overbolted at the bottom. A nice move to start, then jugs, a good arete sequence past the final bolt (crux), and a tricky mantle topout.

** Fear and Loathing 15m 17 (OS)
Start: 4m R of Staircase Chimney. Up finger crack with block at half height.

** Fingers 8m 18 (YP)
A stunning line, but rather short. The ever steepening and narrowing crack provides some great moves, and is very sustained for such a short route, the crux being the final fingerlocking moves.

3rd Breakaway

The highest and steepest of the Breakaways. I haven�t done anything here - the path along the bottom is horrendous, and it is undoubtedly better to rap in. Walking from the second lookout, it is extremely obvious where the crag is. Luce is in the middle of the orange columns capped by rooves, and this is probably the spot to rap in.

4th Breakaway

Definitely worth visiting. Still nice and close to the lookout, and heaps of routes. From the 2nd carpark, take the path down to the valley lookout, then follow the cliff top L over the creek, past the barbwire fence, and along approx 50m until you find a large break in the cliffs. Steep descent, the 4th Breakaway is back towards the lookout.

** Twist 10m 16 (RP)
Start: The first goodlooking hand jam crack from the R, marked. Excellent, strenuous and continuous jamming makes up for its short nature. Follow crack to top - preferably belay and rap off tree, to continue up to the top is horrid.

** Rooflet 15m 19 (L)
Clean before you climb!! Evidently this doesn�t see much traffic these days. The top crack can be fairly dirty, and as its the crux, that ain�t good!! Strenuous laybacking leads up the easy looking corner to the roof - a rest can be had by bridging out R. Simple underclinging leads out roof to arete, then some hideous cranking off jams (crux) gains a stance in the crack. Step R at top of crack and to top.

5th Breakaway

A much smaller crag than the 1st four - only 5 climbs. However the classic 'Jugular' was well worth the visit. The easiest way to describe getting there is as for the 4th Breakaway, and once down, head away from the lookout, but if you know what you're doing, I'd stay high for as long as possible.

*** Jugular 15m 18 (L)
Start: 2m R of Capillary - marked. Hand jam your way through the double roofs, then up slightly overhanging and loose wall to top. The first roof is easily cleared, but the second is the true tester. A 1.5m roof with practically no feet, and an awkward hand/fist jam. Pikers go R around it.

� 2000 Will