The Details: Another beginner's favourite area due to the handful of easy slabs. However there's also some great routes in the 6b-7a range. Unfortunately there are tonnes of mosquitos - bring your repellent!
Access: Head north along Raylae East beach until a concrete path breaks L off the beach just before Co-Co's bar. Follow this which leads back from the beach for about 150m then turns R along below the cliffs. The entrance to the cave itself soon appears, there are several routes L of the cave entrance which actually look ok but are rarely climbed due to being so close to the National Park HQ, and climbers have been asked not to climb near the cave entrance. The cave costs a few baht to enter and is probably ok if you're looking for something to do.
Anyway, continue past the cave entrance, uphill for about 200m until the path emerges past the end of the cliffs, and from here head back left up a 15m muddy path to the base.
Here's a view from out on the water, with CoCo's and various other bars visible on the waterfront. The climbing area is at the right end of the main buttress facing camera, while the cave is in the centre of the main buttress.
* Route Left of Chock Dee 12m 5 (14) (OS)
A surprisingly ok little route despite appearances. Well protected with numerous slings, highly recommended for beginner leading practice. There's several more 5's left of this with slings and lower offs, which aren't in the guide.
** Chock Dee 18m 5 (15) (OS)
Good again, with a similar start up the slab, then some nice juggy moves through a bulge and vertical finish.
** Keep the Jam Man 20m 6a (19) (OS)
Easy enough up initial black slab although with one tricky move. The steeper top half is quite sustained with some non-obvious moves up the slight flake and stepping R from the top of it. Perhaps the best pitch on this wall, and it has 2 more pitches above.
Nullaktion 21m 6a (22) (OS)
The worst sandbag I found in the whole place! Maybe some holds have ripped off or something but the final 6m of this are 22 for sure (ie the grade should be 6b+ or 6c!). They're quite cool moves but a bit of a shock when you're expecting a cruisy 6a... anyway, it's on the wall further up right from the slabby section. Starts up the easy L trending ramp, past some pitons! Then pull over the bulge and up the wall with increasing difficulty until a one-finger pocket crank deposits you in a holdless wasteland. Levitate your way up and step right to the anchors.
** Les Petites Oreilles 20m 6b+ (22) (OS)
Almost a 3 star route, but icky sharp rock for the last few metres knocks off a star. The first 15m is awesome pocket pulling up overhung rock, with sloper moves, big sidepulls etc - great stuff! Neither guide book makes clear what routes are on this wall, but this one has 5FH, and is the 2nd route R of N. Perhaps a new route has been put between N and this route with slings for pro.
� 2003-2004 Will
