Colosseum Wall

The Word: Easy access, nice short routes.
The Crag Classics: Christian Crack (** 20), The Rack (** 18)
Sun/shade: These routes get sun until midday, although Nero's wall gets shade earlier. Routes round the R side will get sun until 4-5pm.
Wet weather options: Not a great option but we survived a few short showers - Christian Crack and The Rack are both over-vertical.
Style & Length of Climbs: 15m vertical trad.
Available Grades; Best Grades: 5-28; 15-26

The Details: Quite a small area, but has a few gems. Something to keep in mind when you just want a few more routes to finish off the day.

Access: 5min walk S from the Pines, heading L along below the cliffs, Colosseum Wall is the last decent bit of rock really.

Descent(s): There is now a rap anchor just near the top of The Rack. The chimney descent described in the guide looked way too bold for my liking - it is possible to downclimb the gully about 20m L of CC, just R of The Thimble - but this is a little necky too.

Colosseum Wall Area - Comic Strip Wall at far left, The Thimble, a climber is on The Rack at Colosseum Wall, with Bermuda Triangle (21) and Light Fingered Gully also marked.
Not that impressive for Araps - but still some great routes in there.

Not that impressive for Araps - but still some great routes in there.

Described L to R.

Crucifixion 12m 16 (OS)
An ok warm up - unless you can't fist jam in which case it might be rather hard! Starts 3m L of Blasphemy and follows the crack through the small roof.
* Blasphemy 12m 22 (flash)
In retrospect I wish I'd had my mate strip the gear instead of just dropping the rope - this route is all about the pro. It's the obvious arete just L of Christian Crack. Start up the thin corner (good wires) to the bolt, then the thin technical crux up R to the arete. Over the small roof then step L to hands free rest - use this to fiddle gear into the crack just R of the arete, then up L of the arete on good holds to a frog stance on the very arete - a crucial (and bomber) #1 wire goes in at your waist here at the top of the crack, then a beautiful move up to a R hand pinch high on the arete gains better holds to the ledge and through the top bulge. I wouldn't call it dangerous, but certainly you need to focus on your gear.
** Christian Crack 12m 20 (OS)
Excellent climbing the whole way - with a really non obvious move to gain the final fingers crack that seems to often throw off pumped leaders. Great sustained moves and fair 20 - although those who can't jamb seem to find it pretty solid.
* The Rack 12m 18 (flash)
This gets trumpeted as "Arapiles great jamming problem" - but in reality there's only 3 or 4 compulsory jams on it. And the jams are so tight it doesn't really test your technique much. Quite a disappointment to anyone who's been on a real splitter crack! Still, it's a nice steep little climb.
* Nero 13m 15 (YP)
Nice, but short. The corner 5m R of the Rack. Up to a nice jam move, then more easily.

Christian Crack - Thomas the German works his way up this nice steep little wall. Note Blasphemy is the arete on the L, while The Rack is the other crack on his R.
no not the tank engine!

� 1998-2004 Will