> Will's Climbing Page > Crags > Blue Mountains > Celebrity Crag

Celebrity Crag

The Word: A limited sportclimbing crag.
Sun/shade: Morning shade, sun from mid afternoon.
Wet weather options: 1 or 2 chossy looking sport routes.
Style of Climbs: Sport. Leave your trad gear at home.
Grades: 17-23?
Best Route(s): -

The Details:

Access: 10min walk.

Described L to R, facing the cliff.

Jimmy Cliff

A visually uninspiring wall, but the routes aren't too bad. It�s up in a little gully, so gets less wind. The last bit of the traverse around to it is a crawl through a 3 foot high break with a 20m drop off the edge, so take care! On the whole the rock is (just!) good enough, and the wall is consistent angle the whole way, about 1m overhung overall.

Butt Nuggets 20m 19 (OS)
2nd route from L. Step L from FH on JJ, up to crimpy move at half height. Quite pumpy for a few metres including a clip, rest, then a pumpy traverse right on flat holds with very poor feet and a throw to the final jugs. * Johnny's Jalopies 20m 17 (OS)
Nice double gaston move through bulge at 6m, then a pleasant undercling at 11m which, with a little thought, isn't as hard as it looks. Some very dubious holds above, in particular one you have to clip off!! Sidepulls/gastons up a creaky flake system to the blank looking and slightly more overhung final 3m, with convenient massive sidepull.

Mr Scumbag 20m 18 (OS)
4th route from the left. Pull over bulge, up deep flake to obvious undercling. Now the crux, poor undercut feet and a reach high and left. Rest, then reasonably pumpy to the top.

� 2001 Will