Bondi

The Details: A bit higher than many of the seacliffs, the rock is about as good as it gets on the coast, and the bolts are not as crap as elsewhere! Take care on Arapiles, though. While we were there, a flake ripped, resulting in a 6m lead fall to within about a foot of the narrow chasm. Not good! The main wall all looks damn hard, and the gradings are solid. But if you're capable, it looks like there's lots of good climbs around 23. Above Arapiles, Metamorphosis and F--- Off, there are only carrots, so you've got to continue up the (easy) shitty top section - anyone want to put a set of rings in?? Finally, watch for wayward tee shots sending golf balls in your direction, and watch out for dickheads chucking rocks - we had TV size blocks rolling down the gully next to us, interspersed with raining golf balls.

Access: To get here, get to the huge smoke stack on the N headland of Bondi Beach, then pick a spot. The descent closest to the tower is easy, but gives a delicate traverse to get to the climbs as you walk south. The steep gully right next to the crag is full of concrete, junk, and rusting metal (get your tetanus shots done!) but is probably the quickest way.

Climbs described R to L.

* Metamorphosis 45m 22 (L)
Start 5m L of Arapiles - 15m L of the bottom of the gully. I recommend chimneying to preclip the 1st and 2nd bolts, as a lead fall in the narrow chasm is not tempting! The start is rounded and balancy, and stays damp. The good rock and good moves start at the 2nd bolt. Up briefly, clip 3rd, then out R is a large obvious undercling/sidepull. Don't be deceived - there's a smaller pocket up a touch R which makes things easier. Crank the sidepull off smearing feet to rounded dish, then lean back L to jug, clip 4th. R hand up to slight gaston, then (crux) lift L foot to join L hand in jug. L hand over overlap and out L to crimp on tiny break. Shuffle hands up through a small R hand crimp and L hand sidepull, then to jugs below final bolt, clip. L hand to crimp, then tough to get R hand through peeny intermediate, feet up, then R hand to good holds just below top. Single bolt right here, back it up with the double bolts over L on top of FO. Not too bad at all. It tends to seep a bit just L - which made my footwork very insecure! Pretty sustained too.

F--- Off 15m 20 (YP)
Slab 10m L of M. Would be a very ballsy lead, to say the least. Only 2 bolts, and the rock is not good. Easily to first bolt, which is good. Opposing L and R hand sidepulls, R foot on sloping edge, with a high L foot smear to hold R foot on. R hand up to crimp, bring L foot back under, and lean over L to large sloper. R foot high onto crimp, then R hand up into good pocket. Up flake past mediocre 2nd bolt, then a slight mantle to final jugs. DBB.

Click here for a photo of this crag.

For a complete description of all Sydney crags, go to the Sydney Rockclimbing Club's on-line Sydney Guide.

� 2002 Will