� 2002 Will
The Details: A pleasant enough little suburban crag, with quite solid gradings for Sydney. All can be toproped.
Access: To get there, head S along Alfords Point Rd, and after crossing Georges River, park in a sealed pull off bay under some high voltage power lines, above Great Moon Bay. The crag is about 15m on your L. Descend at the S end.
The climbs are only documented in an old issue of Rock (I think), so I'm gonna include the ones I haven't done. SC = sport climb, and climbs are described from S to N (L to R facing the cliff).
Green Frogs and Liver 6m 16 SC
L of main wall. 2 BB, DBB.
No Answers 6m 23 SC
Thin and bulgy. 3 FH.
* Suburbanitis 15m 16 SC (YP)
Slab to ledge, short flake, wall. 5 BB, DBB. Crux down low through slopers and crimpers, avoid the bees, then more steeply from ledge to jugs over bulge in flake. Tough 16.
Brown Hornet 15m 15
Clip first BR of Suburbanitis, tend R then up past SLCDs and FH. Beware this climb - you climb through a bees nest, and I've heard its harder than Suburbanitis.
Brother Sun 15m 18
1 BB plus wires and cams. Looks like a hard start.
Sister Moon 15m 19
Thin. 1 BB plus wires and cams.
Fabulous Muppet Show 15m 18 SC (YP)
Arete. 3 BB, DBB. Big move past first bolt, or cheat R. Thin past 2nd, then up more steeply on juggy layaway on arete. Not too bad.
Mad Bolter 7m 20 SC
3 FHs through roof. More like 4m, but could be fun, so long as the holds don't all fall on you.
* Necropolis Kidney 15m 18 SC (YP)
Short slab to shallow seam. 4 BB, DBB. Tricky up slab, then crux up the seam. Bad clipping positions - I recommend going to the pocket just above and L of the 3rd bolt, and there's a jug above the fat flake for the 4th bolt.
Viva La Papa 15m 19
Tricky slab, then orange stone to overhang.
** Show Us Your Form 15m 21 SC
Roof. BR, 2 FH, DBB. I was going to deduct a star because of the worrying FH on the lip - you're on a big grounder, with a few bounces on the way down! But I'm a sucker for roofs, so it keeps 2 stars. I had a whipper on this, from about 1.5m above the lip, to 2.5m below it - the FH works ok! Easily up to roof, clip FH using jugs, then out to crimpers next to FH, with R foot on small edge in roof. The break 30cm above is good, and there's a jug out R of it. Heel hook out R, and crimpy all the way up to break under small roof, then clip 2nd FH. The top moves look thin and a bit dirty.
Give Me Souls 15m 23 M1
Stick clip 1st BB. Through roof on L to arete, wall. 3 BBs, big SLCDs, DBB.
Sideline Jack 14m 16 SC
R side of roofs. 3 BB, DBB.
For a complete description of all Sydney crags, go to the Sydney Rockclimbing Club's on-line Sydney Guide.
� 2002 Will