1-2-3 Crag

The Details: A beautiful wall with some ripper routes. Unfortunately, being the closest crag it's usually totally overflowing with bumblies being towed up easy things by Thai guides (usually barefoot!). If you can brave the crowds the harder routes (6c and up) should be free. Otherwise suss out the lunch-break and knock-off time (6pm) for the guided groups and tick the odd route when they're not there. On my trip most routes were inaccessible at high tide, and even at med-high tide many routes lowered off into shallow water (once I caught my entire rope and kept it dry....every other time it went splash!). However others have reported (Jan04 - thanks Tom) that the sand has built up and the beach is there at all tides. Access: Wander down to the S end of Raylae East beach. Muay Thai is the short overhung section you get to first (on the R of the photo to the R, with the bottom half obscured by bush), then 1-2-3 Crag is the beautiful white and orange wall 15m further around opposite a small pinnacle, above a nice sandy beach and below some big stalactites 35m up.

1-2-3 Crag and Muay Thai

Described L to R.

Samiboy 12m 6a+ (19) (OS) Not great. Second route from the left of the crag (Somporn (King) says its the leftmost and spells it differently in his guide, but I trust Wee's guide considering he put up both routes!). The usual undercut start off the sand, then a bulge through the middle section before finishing up just R of an arete. Marked in the photo to the right. *** Kratoy 25m 6c (22) (OS) An amazing pitch! Starts up inside the cave at the left end of the crag. An absolutely incredible move out the apex of the cave - swinging under the lip using a hole from both sides then having to swing up into a stemming position on a stalactite!! Then another incredible sequence up an overhung tufa - like arete climbing with both hands! Best of all, despite the high tide, I managed to pull my rope from the anchors and catch all of it while standing in knee deep water without it getting wet!! Marked in the photo on the right. ** We Sad 25m 6a+ (19) (OS) Not quite a classic. 18 apart from the hideously bouldery start, which involves foot free-campusing to get onto a stalactite! Marked in the photo on the right, with a climber halfway up it. *** Make a Way 25m 6a+ (20) (OS) Quite solid for the grade by Krabi standards. Starts up a steep juggy corner requiring stacks of body language. Then veers R through half height and up a heavily chalked line of holds linked by awesome varied moves on gorgeous peachy limestone. Marked in the photo on the right, with the first third obscured behind the pinnacle.

1-2-3 Crag

*** Massage Secrets 30m 6a+ (19) (OS) An outright classic, but you'll need to book ahead! 1) (** 22m 5/14) A pleasant jaunt up R from the corner, unfortunately laden with sand down low from beginners happily trampling all over it. 2) (*** 8m 6a+/19) Marked in the photo above and with climbers on it. A fantastic sequence up a polished pocketed vertical wall. The shot on the right shows Nicola on pitch 1. To keep it down to grade 5, keep veering R. For the original 6a+ first pitch, go straight up from where she is, then head diagonally R through the polished steepening. . . . . .