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When coloring virgin or natural color hair
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start where the color is the darkest, This is usually the nape of the
neck or at the crown
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When the ends are faded
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use your regular formula except where the hair is too porous to hold
color. Apply one level darker to the ends with a small amount of gold or
yellow accent to provide warmth and highlights
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The ends will not color (hold color)
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usually because the they are too porous and need to be filled before
appplication of the tint formula. Use the color selected or 1/2 to 1 shade
darker, with no developer added then apply. Then dry into the effected
area of the hair. Apply your formula as usual and the color should hold.
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Summer hair will not hold color
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because of the damaging effects of the sun, heat, or water. Increase
conditioning repair to correct the porosity. Do this on a continueing basis.
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When blonde hair becomes greenish because of chemical in swimming
pools
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This can be corrected by using a warm (red or gold) accent. Also be
sure to recommend a good clarifier (or clarifying shampoo)
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A greenish cast
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will result when a blue based color is applied to yellow or gold hair.
Substituting a violet based color will result in a more natural color.
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When pre-lightening for red hair
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never process above the orange stage
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When light reddish blondes turn orange as the color fades
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add a small amount of red-gold for highlights
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Pink hairlines on gray hair tinted red
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require a small amount of natural brown the same level or darker to
add depth. Apply color starting at the back of the head and add the additional
brown for the hairline only.
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When current color is darker than a new shade selected
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a color remover must be used to remove the old tint up to a level equal
to the new desired shade
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Color removers
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are designed to remove artificial color. They will not be effective
for lightening virgin hair
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"Washing out" and "removing" a tint
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are not the same. "Washing out" the tint is done at the end
of the color process to remove what has not been absorbed into the hair.
"Removing" the tint is taking the color out of the hair, usually
in preparation for apllication of a lighter color
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If hair is too red after using a color remover
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ash or violet accents may be added to neutralize unwanted warm tones
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When hair is predominately gray
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start application where hair is the grayest. Use one shade darker than
the target color.In the absence of any color in the hair, the shade will
appear lighter
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Very pale or processed hair
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has little or no red or gold pigment. Remember, highlights come from
warm tones. It may be necessary to add warm accents (with no additional
developer) to prevent colors from appearing too violet, too blue, or green;
esp. where the hair is most resistant;ie. the hairline
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On hair going increasingly gray
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a ligher color may be more desirable as the outgrowth is less noticeable
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Pre-softening gray hair
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may be necessary if the hair is very resistant and coarse. Follow manufacturer's
directionsand alway dry hair before applying the tint.Color applied to
damp or wet hair will become diluted and the result will be unsatisfactory.
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A resistant gray hairline
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should have the color applied firstand then again after the rest of
the hair has been done. Consider increasing the process time within the
limits of the directions. Possibily one shade darker could be applied to
the hairline only.
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To cover natural gray streak
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use one shade darker than the natural color. You may have to increase
the process time.
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A green cast on gray or pre-lightened pale yellow hair
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Adding a small amount of red or gold as an accent will cut the green.
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Yellow bleed through on pre-lighten hair
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may occur when the tint shade is not dark enough. The color must be
the same level or darker than the level of the hair.
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More to come...
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